Discussion in 'Uromastyx' started by Rich, Sep 2, 2007.
A Care Sheet for the Uromastyx can be found here:
Uromastyx Care Sheet
Re: Uromastyx Caresheet
If you would like to add to the information found within this caresheet, or perhaps discuss the contents of this caresheet, I invite everyone to do so.
If you wish to donate some images of your Uromastyx for use within this caresheet, with credit being given to you of course, please add them to this thread as well.
This thread is now a "sticky" at the top of the "Uromastyx" forum.
Discussion within this thread is ONLY relevant to the caresheet found in the first post. Please do not ask questions about caring for your animals in this thread. Start a new thread in the appropriate forum for the species in which you need answers.
Re: Uromastyx Caresheet
Thank so much for this. It has answered alot of my questions.
I'd agree with most of the care information posted here aside from a few things:
Number one is diet, specifically the fact that this care sheet characterizes this genus of lizard as omnivores, which they are not. These animals are herbivores and should be treated as such. Not only do they lack the digestive system to properly digest and process animal proteins but field studies have shown that Uromastyx do not overtly seek insects or any other animal as prey items in the wild. The only insects they end up eating happen to be on or in the flowers and or fruits on which they feed. In addition I would also stay away from mustard greens and corn as food items. Mustard greens, as well as most other Brassica related varieties, are high in goitrogens, which can prevent the absorption of iodine causing the thyroid gland in the animal to increase in order to capture more iodine. This can cause what is known as hyperthyroidism, which leads to various, often serious, health issues. As for corn, it is extremely high in both sugars and phosphorous, neither of which are necessary and both can be detrimental in high levels. The other food items listed are fine in moderation (large quantities of peas and beans should be avoided) but there are a few very good choices that were overlooked, primarily curly endive and escarole. Both of these greens generally offer very well balanced calcium to phosphorus ratios of 2:1, which is what the entire diet should maintain in order to ensure proper calcium intake. An imbalance of calcium and or phosphorous can have devastating effects.
I also noted that the care sheet recommend wiping snalt off using a wet towel or cloth--this should be avoided for several reasons. For one, doing this will stress the animal, which can lead to other issues. Secondly, this can cause the animal to accidentally inhale water, which can cause dire health consequences (i.e. respiratory infections). While snalt is common, too much snalt will indicate an imbalanced diet, specifically high amounts of sodium/salts and or potassium. A little bit here and there, which they tend to rub off on their own, is normal, but large formations are not. If this is happening please adjust diet items accordingly and make sure to provide rough surfaces for the animal to rub against. I'm also not fond of the soaking aspect, which again can do more harm than good. If you're providing solid husbandry the need to soak/bathe should be nonexistent.
IMHO a more comprehensive care sheet on this genus can be found here.
Other good links include:
-Deer Fern Farms - Doug Dix, the owner of the website, has been keeping and breeding Uromastyx for decades and his website includes species specific info, descriptions and images.
-Uromastyx ornatus - Wild Population Study Overview
-Uromastyx ornatus - Diet
I have received permission from the creators of Urowiki to add some of their info into our caresheet.
Unfortunately I have yet to find the time to do a rewrite.
EDIT: Feeding guide stickied
This is a rather good caresheet, but the only thing I would disagree on is the housing. Uromastyx need a 4 x 2 x 2 size aquarium, preferably not glass.
Anything that is smaller than 4 x 2 x 2 feet (48 x 24 x 24" or 122 x 60 x 60 cm) will not provide an adequate temperature gradient. So even hatchlings need a bigger enclosure; a 20 gallon is way too small.
Separate names with a comma.