This Disappears When Logged In

Under Tank Heater or Ceramic Heat Bulb

Discussion in 'Monitors' started by CMLewis, Mar 29, 2013.

  1. CMLewis

    CMLewis Well-Known Member

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2o76x6tfrs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

    Given the size of my enclosure, should I use a under tank heater or ceramic heat bulb to keep the enclosure warm at night and keep the substrate warm?
    Should I use 2*4s to have the enclosure elevated off the ground?

    The room the enclosure in is not insulated and usually stays within 5-15 degrees higher than the outside temperature. So that should factor into the decision. Any help and feedback would be appreciated.

    I won't put in any substrate in until I figure out this dilemma
     
  2. TheSmench

    TheSmench Elite Member

    I used heat cable buried at the bottom controlled by thermostat. The cable doesn't get to hot to the touch even at full blast. I had same problem and my sav crashed. He is on the mend now. I plan on posting a thread on the issue once he makes full recovery. I hope this helps. Glad you posted this is an issue that is over looked
     
  3. mld

    mld Subscribed User Premium Member

    I'm sure some monitor owner will be by to help you out! I believe that they need heat from above and will dig to cool off. In the meantime you should give a complete rundown of the enclosure, as much info as you can :)
     
  4. diehardislanders

    diehardislanders Elite Member

    I would worry that mine would dig up and get tangled in the wire. Throughout the winter, I leave my lights on 24/7 to compensate for the heat problems that arise in cold ambient temps. There is a school of thought out there that a light cycle is not imperative for Savannah Monitors.
     
  5. TheSmench

    TheSmench Elite Member

    I have read that the light cycle is unnecessary my ambient temps at night never drop below 70 degress. It was deep underground (2+') in burrow temps where low 60s. I buried cable along edge of the bottom of enclosure. When i dug him up his burrow system never went all the way to bottom so I am not worried about tangling as much as letting the soil temp drop to much. Even with my bank of flood lights heat didn't penetrate the soil deep. Definitely understand the concern for tangling
     
  6. CMLewis

    CMLewis Well-Known Member

    So your saying bury the heading pad in the soil?
     
  7. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, a heat pad would not really work at all, far better to raise the enclosure off the floor as you suggested, then insulate the space between.
     
  8. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, any species of Varanid should be fine using the 24/7 method of heating, not just V. exanthematicus, obviously make sure there are cooler, darker places they can retreat to.
     
  9. TheSmench

    TheSmench Elite Member

    I don't know how durable a heat pad would be with moisture and monitors claws. That is why went with heat cable laid along edges of bottom enclosure (secured with brackets). Chances slim that the monitor will come in contact with cable. I would not bury the heat pad. Check your soil temps when enclosure is set up and running to see if you need to heat soil. When checking soil temp at depth I dig to depth bury probe let sit for and hour to get accurate reading. Use a snake hook to place probe deep in burrow so as to cause minimal damage to burrow. With your depth of soil only 12" I don't think you will have much of a problem.
     
  10. Og_

    Og_ Elite Member

    I have a 6 year+ savannah Monitor and I have been using a CHE for about 4 years now. They are somewhat expensive in the short term ($45 to $50), I'm not sure how much they cost now. I've had mine for at least four years and it's still working fine. A CHE is also far more efficient in radiating heat in one direction than a light bulb.
     

Share This Page