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Temperature Gradient For Sand Boa?

Discussion in 'Rosy Boas & Sand Boas' started by Mina, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. Mina

    Mina New Member

    Got a little chunky noodle snake (Saharan Sand Boa/West African Sand Boa/Eryx Muelleri) at an exotic pet expo this past Sunday and I'm happy to have my first snake but it's been a little stressful trying to keep her temps in range and I was wondering if anyone might have any suggestions on how to properly maintain a heat gradient in a 10 gallon tank. Sorry to start another thread on the subject but I have different supplies on hand to work with and I was hoping on some advise to try and make due with what I have until I can order some "upgrades" if need be.

    My house is really chilly in the summer, 71F or cooler most days & while I have no power over that particular thermostat I have partially closed the air vent in my room so it doesn't get too cold for my sand boa. Her cool side runs around 74-75, usually above 75 during the day but definitely 74-75 at night. I have two temperature probes, one for her hot side and one for her cool side (as well as the one for the thermostat which is over the heat mat) & a temp Gun to do some quick checks.

    I currently have a Fluker's mini heat mat under the tank with some Eco carpet to line it and Repti chips for substrate. The heat mat is plugged into a thermostat with a max temperature of 92F set and it is programmed so that the heat mat will only turn on if temps go below 85F.

    There are two different heat lamps at my disposal! The one I used initially has a 50W basking bulb in it and the other one is a mini duo lamp with a 13W Exo Terra Natural light bulb (Repti glo 2.0 compact) + a 50W Infrared Basking Spot lamp. I have it angled so the Infrared basking spot lamp is in the back left corner above where the heat mat is & the heat lamp is on a 6am-6pm timer. With the lamp on during the day, the heat mat shouldn't need to click on since it is plugged into a thermostat (I'd hope).

    If you managed to read all that, I thank you for your time (seriously) :)

    There's a lot of mixed advise about UTHs & the petstore I bought my pinkies from suggested not using one at all because of the potential to burn the snake but it is on a thermostat and I'm having a hard time getting a good basking temp+gradient with the bulb (usually only get 86-88F). The entire time I'm at work I just worry she's either too hot or too cold and I just want to make sure she's being cared for properly.
  2. Mina

    Mina New Member


    Ceramic Heat Emitter seems like the way to go if you have a colder house. Got a Fluker's lamp with a dimmer and while the above substrate temps get into the low 100s, her substrate temps on the hot side are low to mid 90s. I still have the "natural light" bulb in a clamp lamp and what little heat that little 13w bulb produces helps keep her gradient smoothly transitioned to the cool side :)

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