Discussion in 'Rainbow Boas' started by mercuryjwp, Jan 20, 2014.
Wheres the digital temp/humidity gauge?
The first thing that jumps out at me is that there isn't nearly enough cover in that cage. This is a shy, easily stressed snake. He needs to be able to move from one side to the other to regulate his temperature without feeling vulnerable, or he won't want to eat because he can't digest properly. You need more plants, hides, etc. Clutter the cage up. You should also cover the back and sides.
The second issue is your heat pad - is it regulated on a thermostat or a dimmer? If not you need to get one or it could burn the snake. I also doubt a heat pad alone is enough to heat the whole tank to where the ambient temperatures need to be. But all I see in the tank is an analog dial temperature gauge which won't be accurate at all. You need a digital thermometer and hygrometer so you can get his temperatures and humidity correct. When you take the temps with a digital thermometer you can go from there with how much/what type of heat you need to add and what the heat pad should be set to to create an appropriate basking surface temp.
Also, that bubble wrap laid on top probably isn't holding in a lot of heat or humidity. If you're going to cover the screen try wrapping it tightly with plastic wrap and then wrapping a layer of aluminum foil over that. But the first thing you need to do is get that digital thermometer or you'll be making changes without even knowing if they're working or if you're making it worse.
k, got the sides and with cardboard. Ive put another plant there from my pythons cage. The back of the aquarium is against the wall. Ive got more cardboard cover till I can make it to pet store.
The heat pad is a zoo med 8 watt heating pad. You cannot turn it up or down. Its in the corner now on the left under the bark hide. My digital thero and humidity meter is on its way in the mail. I borrowed someones for a day and the temps for the warm side were around 75-80 for both the humidity and temp. I now put plastic wrap with aluminum foil over. I left about a half inch line across the long side of the screen so the snake can breath.
When my probe comes in the mail does it go on the hot or cold end? Thanks for the help everyone
Hi! I just joined herpcenter but I've raised reptile my whole life and I'm very knowledgeable about them so I can try to help. One reason is it is winter and snake will slow down or even stop eating in the winter. Secondly, is he getting ready to shead? A lot of snakes, when they are in the shedding cycle, will stop eating. The indications of shedding are dull-color scales and grey eyes. They should not be handled at this time either. If these don't match what you thinks going on then again, check your temps and humidity. Also, daylight could be a factor. You might want to try a high watt UVB bulb if this might be the case to help get the rays the suns supposed to give him. The last thing I can think of is the hours you turn on the night bulb and day bulb (if you used both). And btw, DO NOT use the under-tank heat pads, they are EXTREMELY dangerous to reptiles and and burn them.
I put my temp probes one on the cool side and one on the heat side so I have an accurate temp for both sides but this is also for my beardie, not a boa. But when I had my boa I did the same thing.
Humidity gauge in the middle, one temp gauge on the hot side of the terrainium, and another on the cool side.
A snake that young shouldn't be going off food like this. It's common in older snakes but not so much with babies. It's more likely the temps and humidity are wrong or he's too stressed to eat. This type of snake does not need UVB and is generally hides most of the time and only comes out at night - honestly I think a bright UVB bulb would stress him out if it even did anything at all. And under tank heat pads are fine and even preferred over other heating methods for some types of reptiles but they need to be on a dimmer or thermostat so they don't burn the animal. If you use them properly they are not dangerous.
@ mercuryjwp - you need to get a thermostat or a dimmer/rheostat for the heat pad. A simple lamp dimmer will work too. When you get the thermometer you want to put the probe on the surface of the ground over the heat pad to get the "basking" surface temp but you'll also want to hang it on the cool side after that to get the ambient temperature.
this is a pic my buddy took of the brb about a week ago. It looks very healthy to me. If anyone sees any issues please let me know. thanks
Just read the entire thread and here's what I would do (much of which has already been said and some of which has been already done sort of)
1) Cut a piece of solid plastic like lexan or plexiglas to completely fit the top. Drill a few holes for ventilation BUT NOT A LOT. A snake that size could live a month or more on the oxygen in a sealed cage that size. The plastic will do two things, prevent the loss of humidity and also insulation to keep heat in.
2) Wrap three sides of the cage with insulation. I recommend "Reflectix" you can find it in the insulation section of your local home improvement store (lowes, home depot etc.) It's basically aluminized plastic bubble wrap. Two benefits, keeps the heat in and provides some cover.
3) USE A THERMOSTAT to control the heat element. Proportional style like Herpstat or Helix would be best.
4) STOP STRESSING the snake. Offer food once a week, if the temp and humidity are good very likely the snake will eat. Most often they are not eating due to either too hot/cold or too dry.
VERY IMPORTANT - ANY change to the cage (espoecially to=hose listed above) can affect temperatures and MUST BE MONITORED very closely to ensure the temps don't spike to unsafe levels.
p.s. The snake looks healthy, clearly been eating and growing so this current not eating is very likely environmental. (stress/temp/humidity)
thanks for the info rainbowsrus. How old would estimate the age of this brb to be? Its 2 foot. Also the only snakes ive ever had were pythons and they all ate live. This one eats frozen. Do you suggest put 2 unthawed fuzzies in container or just 1 a week?
I got Eve, a Brazilian Rainbow about two weeks ago. She ate fine last Sunday.
Today though she bit my son when he reached in to get her in her feeding tank. Then she didn't eat. I think she got scared and stressed when she bit him and he jumped. She drew blood. But they are both fine and he still loves her. Any thing I did wrong? And how long should I wait till I offer her food again?
Im not a snake expert like everyone else on here but ive studied the brb for countless hours on the internet and from what ive heard most babys strike outta defense while they are babies. Mine still strikes but not as common anymore. When it strikes never let it scare you and continue to hold it or it will get use to just striking every time you put your hand in. I had to use gloves for the first week.
None of you should be handling the snake within the first week of bringing them home.
All of your research would tell you this.
Brb are especially skittish and shy, it's just their nature. They should be giving atleast a week to settle into their new environment before you attempt to feed. No handling until they have had their first meal and been given a few days to digest it.
Thanks for the info. I feel bad I didn't know more when I got her. Haven't touched her again and won't for a full week.
I think the problem is that you tried to feed him 8 times in less than 30 days... Constantly offering him food may be stressing him out. Offer food, if he doesn't take it, wait 7-14 days and try again.
Edit: I guess I should have scrolled through the replies
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