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New to the Modern UVB Bulbs...

Discussion in 'Habitat Lighting' started by DwarvenChef, Jun 13, 2012.

  1. DwarvenChef

    DwarvenChef Elite Member

    As most know I'm out of touch with many of the new fangled herp equipment out there :p UVB bulbs where still just being talked about when I got out of herps for a while. I've been reading what I can as I find it and was inspired to rething things after reading the post linked below...

    As to not clutter up that thread I started a new one. But much of what I have to ask is kind of connected with those findings, so here we go.

    Given the reduction of window screen tops most commonly used for herp tanks, would it be better to bump up the %'age of UVB output to make up for the reduced penetration?

    So if a 5.0 is recomended for my lizards and I'm getting a 30% reduction due to screen type, Should I be using a 10.0 or 12% bulb to get better penetration for a better UVB source for my lizards? Due to the scittish nature of my swifts I cannot have an open top or have a light inside the tank to get the direct lighting you could get from a larger open enclosure.
  2. DragonsKeepers

    DragonsKeepers Subscribed User Premium Member

    Thanks for linking my findings. From what I've seen, I think everyone needs to bump up the UVB lights in their enclosures. With all of the cases of MBD I've read about, I don't think it hurts to give the herps more UVB lighting. I do still think it's important that the animals aren't over-subjected to high levels though. In the wild all of these animals can hide away if they choose.

    With that said, I plan on using the Arcadia 12% HO in for my water dragon as well. I figure I will create a canopy of leaves so that light is not quite as intense in areas (more like in their natural habitat). I realized the compact fluorescent bulbs are seriously a joke. I am very happy with the purchase of the Solartech 6.2 because it allows me to see firsthand the difference between a bulb and the sun.

    With the higher output bulb, I made sure to offer additional shaded areas for my beardies as I would assume in the wild they are not in complete sun for 12-14 hours per day.
  3. NudistApple

    NudistApple Well-Known Member

    Why myself, and many tortoise keepers do, is cut away the screen underneath the bulb itself. Leave enough for the hood to balance, but have the bulb itself unfiltered.

    Then we puts hides, plants or a combination of the two down below so that the animal can choose at what percentage it wants to bask at, like what Dragonskeeper suggested doing for her Water Dragon.

    Here is an example;

    Attached Files:

  4. DwarvenChef

    DwarvenChef Elite Member

    Great idea for no leapers :) My guy and gals are a bit excitable and would jump onto the bulb if I did that. I found out how run crazy they get at times, found out why my sensors kept getting knocked free of their mountings, they where using them as a launch point to jump across the tank into the hides... Crazy buggers...
  5. DragonsKeepers

    DragonsKeepers Subscribed User Premium Member

    My water dragon grabs and slides down the hoses for my monsoon mister system to get to his hammock sometimes. It's hilarious what they do! I'm half-tempted to put a rope that he can grab and swing from in the new enclosure I'm building!
  6. NudistApple

    NudistApple Well-Known Member

    Ah yes, cutting the screen is definitely only for the strictly terrestrial!

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