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New Iguana Set-Up Help

Discussion in 'Green Iguanas' started by juniorsmama, Aug 21, 2009.

  1. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    heeelp!!! I have a new baby ig an I'm afraid the petstore advised me really wrong I need to know how the temperature gauges are setup and how to make the temperature gradient
  2. Dominick

    Dominick Founding Member

    I'm almost positive the Pet store advised you wrong!

    See our care guide and it will tell you exactly what you need to do.

    Temperature gradient is one of the three point of Iguana health. It's very important.
  3. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Indeed. Pets stores are often the worst place to get your information. Read over the care guide and we will be glad to clarify or answer any questions you may have.
  4. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    thank you very much!!! also I am on a budget I don't like to do this I mean I love to read learn and then buy the pet but as you can see i was informed wrong since I am on a budget seriously speaking though can you guys tell me what is most important of all I know EVERYTHING is neccesary but what is LIFE ESSENTIAL right now so I can go get it junior is very small I just got him but really would hate to have him die

    I'm new here guys where can I locate the careguide?

    ahh I'm so stressed I mean poor little guy must think I want to hurt him...Junior is supr active tho I have on the bulb they told me to buy but rather then spraying water on him I'm just alternating the amount of light he is getting I think that bulb is wayy to hot.... but he seems happy though he's eaten all day today I think I should take the plate off now right..
  5. Kendalle

    Kendalle Elite Member

  6. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    hey I'm planning out juniors cage I'm so sorry I didn't have the right info I read deverything but kendalle where do you suggest I put his water bowl? on the floor or on a shelf in hs new enclosure?
  7. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    I am a new owner of a baby ig who is about 4 in long..I'm scared of him dying because the petshop gave me all the wrong info please anyone answer my questions.

    1. My ig spends his day outside receiving light from the sun inside his enclosure. he has a hidding place..Should I still give him light from a uvb light?

    2.How do I humidify his enclosure? (the one I am making for him inside my home?)

    3.Where should I place his water bowl? on the floor of his cage or on a shelf of it?

    4.I bought calcium for him..should I give it in his food?

    5.he's real shy why and will this change?How can i get him to trust me can I keep him warm throught the night until I get what he really needs?
  8. Dominick

    Dominick Founding Member

    You have time to customize your profile, surely you have time to read the Care Guide and set your iguana up properly!
  9. Dragoness

    Dragoness Elite Member

    Re: Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    If you can give him some outside time daily, you probably don't need a UVB until the weather cools a little, but it would be good to have handy.

    There is a large number of ways - many people choose to use room humidifiers, garden sprayers, etc.

    I can just see it falling off a shelf. Best go with the floor unless you can secure it.

    They make CHEs and heat projectors that will warm up a cage nicely without giving off light. Just be sure the cage is insulated, or the heat will go through the walls or ceiling. Glass is a horribly useless insulator, and screen lets not only the heat, but the humidity out as well.

    Hopefully someone will be along to cover the rest of your questions.
  10. Kendalle

    Kendalle Elite Member

    really it doesn't matter THAT much. If you put it on the shelf next to the food (what I do) it will sometimes get knocked to the floor, if you put it on the floor it might get tipped over. Just refill and clean up the mess or let it evaperate.

    Iguana's poop in the water dish most of the time so get a small water bowl, and a large one on the floor so it goes in the bigger one.

    Make sure the dish on the floor is shallow enough the ig can get in and out easily, and big enough the whole ig can get in.
  11. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    thnks kendalle and dominic I mean if you think I don't want to help my ig I really do I read everything and I'm trying to fix it all as fast as I can
  12. jclee

    jclee Active Member

    Re: Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    Re Q4: You can dust his food with calcium/multivitamins. How old the iguana is, and the gender, might affect the frequency of dusting. (Juvies generally need dusting at every meal, and adults ~two or three times a week. Females that are egg-laying -- whether they're fertile or not -- should have more calcium.)

    Re Q5: The time it takes to hand tame a lizard varies greatly, depending on its age, its species, its past experiences with people, its health, and its individual temperment. If it's at all a social species, and you have more than one, the pecking order they establish among themselves will also affect their tame-ness.

    Step 1: Place hand in tank, without moving it, for ~10 minutes a day or as long as you can comfortably do this. Repeat until animal seems "ok" with this. (No visible signs of stress.)
    Step 2: Move hand to animal. Try to gently scoop if from below. If the animal is very shy, spend a few days just putting your hand under its tummy, without lifting, to get him used to that until he's ok with that. (Try 2 hands if it is already too large for 1.)
    Step 3: Pick animal up -- preferably by "scooping" if from below. Hold it for 10-15 mins a day until he's ok with that.
    --In theory, after the completion of step three, your iguana will be ok with being handled respectfully when it's playtime. The more often you and your iguana have contact, the more comfortable he'll be with handling.

    NEVER "chase" an animal around the cage (except, perhaps, for a medical emergency.) This teaches them to equate hands with fear. (You take on the role of "predator" on an instinctive level.) It's harder to re-train an animal once it's afraid of hands. (I'm going through this now with one of my parakeets, whom I had to grab and terrify to get a claw unstuck from a snuggle sack. She HATES my hands right now, even though they did not scare her before that moment.)

    Keep in mind that lizards will, generally, fear a hand coming from above more than one from below, as birds are often their predators, so it is instinctual. It's hard not to "come from above" when reaching into a tank, but this is why "scooping" (hand itself is fully below animal) rather than "grabbing" (hand from above grabs from above) can help. Once an animal is used to you, it might learn not to mind being grabbed from above. Again, individual temperment comes into play. It is very possible for to members of the same species with shared past experiences to feel very different about hands for no discernable reason.

    In a general way, these rules can apply to most pets that can be hand-tamed. (I actually learned the "no chasing" rule while researching hamsters, and then saw it again regarding birds. It seems, though, to apply to many species that are prey food to somebody in the wild.)
  13. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    Junior Wont Poop..

    I tried to get him to poop ..he went yesterday around maybe 4pm he hasn't gone anymore ...I tried to do the whole bathing but he didn't like that too much he ended up spilling the water and running everywhere..anyone knows what I should do? maybe its what he's eating.. also the pet shop told me to sprinkle his food daily with calcium maybe that is causing him not to go..
  14. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I'm sorry but you have taken on one of the most expensive animals to maintain! The things you need to concentrate on are proper diet, correct temperature and humidity and most important a UVB generating bulb. What type of bulb did you get?
  15. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    Re: Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    thanks a lot you guys really helped..but heres another thing petshop told me to sprinkle his food everyday...I change his food everyday but I don't think I should give him calcium every time he's fairly small he looks like he's probably two months idk..what do you think..also he won't poop and I think it might be because of the calcium
  16. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Re: Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    The calcium should be sprinkled lightly as if you were salting your own food. In fact some keepers put it in a salt shaker to dispense.

    Ok lets back up a minute. Tell us in detail exactly how you have the cage set up, the lights, the temperatures, and what you are feeding.
  17. juniorsmama

    juniorsmama Active Member

    ok the petshop informed me wrong! they told me he would be ok for now in a tank since he's only about 4 inches...they also said I didn't need uvb lights since I have him an enclosure outside where he stays all day until probably about 5 this enclosure he has water and food and a hiding place.
    now the one on the inside he only has a 60 watt light bulb(the petshop told me to use) and his food and a wood to climb.
    I read a lot yesterday and I saw a lot of wrong things dad is here at my home building him his correct enclosure now..I'm making it 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide..I know its kinda big for him but junior is going to grow right...I'm also going to add shelves.
    1 for the food
    another for basking
    another one for hidding and another shelf for cooling and at the bottom his water..
    help me out and let me know what else I should add
    also where can I find humidifiers.

    im feeding romaine lettuce(i learned its not too healthy now) squash(banana)and carrots green pepper a little only. and the calcium also i wet the food because i find it rather dry.

    I don't care how much it takes to maintain him I will do it no matter wat it takes because it was my choice to adopt him not his and he shouldn't suffer because of me just tell me what I need to get he has a normal light bulb according to the pet store it would be fine it's a 60 watt.
  18. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    The minimum suggested tank size is a 55 gallon. Smaller than that makes it difficult to establish a thermal gradient so that they can control their body temperature. And you must have thermometers so you know if they are at the proper temperatures. If not they cannot properly digest their food and as such will have difficulties defecating
    If the ig is getting natural sunshine then a UVB bulb is not needed. However this sunshine cannot be passing thru glass or plastic. And never put an animal in a glass or plastic cage in the sun. It will over heat.
    A regular household light bulb is fine as a heat source. But should be turned off at night.
    I would put the food dish on the floor. It will probably end up knocked off ther anyway. Also keeping it on the floor and away from the heat will keep the greens fresh longer.
    Humidifiers can be found at any drug store or Walmart.

    You need to totally revamp the diet. Lettuce is useless, Collard, mustard and turnip greens are your staple foods. Squash should be of the orange skinned varieties and green pepper is fine. The carrots should only be given occasionally if at all.
    Wetting the food is a great way of introducing more water to your iguana

    A regular household bulb is fine for heat. You will need a thermometer to know if the wattage is enough. Get a good digital with a remote probe at the hardware store. Cost approx 12-15 dollars.
  19. schlegelbagel

    schlegelbagel Frog Lover Premium Member

    Re: Petshops Suck...I Need All the Tips I Can Get

    Pick up this book. It has tons of information to chew through. Use it and everyone's help on the forum.


    Attached Files:

  20. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    First off, congrats on your new friend! I will be expecting pictures once he is all settled in. ;) lol
    Leave the food in there and always give hm all that he will eat with a little left over - they will not overeat. What are you feeding him? I think that to better help you, you should give us a run down of what you currently have, and then we can give advice based on that. What size cage is he in? What are the hot and cold side temps, humidity, diet, and do you have a UVB light?
    I HIGHLY recommend buying a MegaRay bulb for UVB. Without UVB your iguana will get Metabolic Bone Disease and die. It is VERY important. MegaRay lasts a year rather than 6 months and provides heat at the same time so in the long run it is the most cost effective. It is also specifically designed to provide the right levels of UVB. I really can't stress enough how amazing and important these bulbs are. :)
    You should continue misting him multiple times a day and try to find a digital thermometer/humidity meter - you will need it and the dial ones are not accurate so don't waste your money.

    I am glad that you are willing to do what it takes to care for this little guy. :) Kudos. It sounds like little Junior has come to a good home and I wish you both the best of luck and the most of patience!

    P.S. 4 inches?!?!?!?!!?! Is that Snout to tail or snout to vent (body length)? That is soo tiny! We definitely need pics! ;)

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