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New ETB Not Eating/Regurgitation

Discussion in 'Emerald Tree Boa/Arboreal Boas' started by KNExotics, Mar 11, 2010.

  1. KNExotics

    KNExotics Member

    Well I got my ETB about a month ago. When he arrived he looked like he was in great health. The breeder fed him about a week before shipping him out. I waited for 14 days before feeding and he wanted nothing to do with it. I was told to use a live small fuzzy, and just taping the snake in the face till it ate it. Well I did that for like 30 min and it only seemed to stress him out...I can see why lol. Well I just figured that maybe I should let him go a couple days longer w/o food and try again. Well after 24 days!(he is still a neonate that just gained his green) I decided to try assist feeding, not force feeding, just simply gently holding the pinky in his mouth till he began to swollow it. Well he swollowed it and seemed fine. Yesturday I was doing my daily cleaning of the cage and found a regurgitated pinky on the cage floor. I'm worried about the regurgitating becoming a real problem, as it has been known to be a real common problem with ETB's. He also pooped that same day. Do you think it was the assist feeding that might of caused the regurge? Should I attempt another live feeding tonight, since he pooped. And if he doesn't eat it I may have to attempt another assist feeding session. If you have any advice I'd love to know where to go from here. Thanks!
  2. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    Wait at least 10 days after the regurgitation. Better would be 14 days. Then feed only a smaller food item and don't feed again until he poops. They tend not to eat before hand or it can led to the snake becoming impacted. Assist feeding is fine but I think it's too early to worry about that now. If he fails to feed in another 8-10 weeks then you may want to assist feed. Make sure the temps and humidity are within the proper rage and that a large heated water bowl is available.
  3. Flint

    Flint Elite Member

    I don't have an actual answer for you, but I can ask the important questions we need answered so the next person to come along can have the information and give you a good answer.

    Cage size?
    Hiding foliage?
    are you handling it?
    are there different sized branches in different spots?

    I do know that arboreal snakes (ETB, GTP, etc) are best when they have branches about the same size as them at their widest part. If they can't distribute their weight evenly, it will be uncomfortable during digestion and it may lead to regurgitation.

    #1 cause to any herp problem is husbandry, so that's what we ask first off to any question like this. Hope that helps someone else help you!!

    Good luck :D
  4. KNExotics

    KNExotics Member

    This is a picture of the enclosure I custom made with a humidifier. It operates on a timer with a basking spot of 90 deg and an ambient air temp of 80-82 in the day with a low of 73-75 at night. The humidity varies from 90-70 during the day and drops to 55-65 at night to help with destroying bacteria. It measures 24" wide 20" deep and 30" tall. It has vents on top and one on the side to keep a constant air flow especially when the humidifier is on. I don't think the cage is the problem but who knows. I kinda followed the book on what temps and humidity to keep it at. 10 days to wait seems like a long time. That would be a little over 30 days without food. I know 30 days is normal for an adult but with a neonate that just seems unhealthy lol.
  5. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    10 days seems like a long time but if you try to feed before than it's very likely that he will regurge again. Your temps and humidity sound good you may want to bring them up just a bit to help with digestion. Keeping your snake well hydrated will help more at this point than trying to feed it. It has lost a lot of fluids and needs to recover before feeding again. Even most hatchlings can go over 2-3 months before eating with out permanent problems. BCI and other boas have problems with regurgitation as neonates and should be feed less often or smaller than normal meals.
  6. KNExotics

    KNExotics Member

    He pooped yesturday that's why I was wondering if I should see if he will take it on his own tomarrow.
  7. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    If he regurged yesterday I would wait 10 days from yesterday to feed. Trust me, you will gain nothing from feeding a snake so soon after a regurge. It will only cause the snake to regurge again and dehydrate the snake more, 30 or even 60 days without food will not kill a snake that has fed or even most hatchlings that have never fed. You need, to give the snake time to get over the last regurge and re build everything that helps in digestion, that was lost during the regurge.
  8. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Titus is giving you the straight of it. And it is not just ETB's. Anytime a snake regurges it throws its system into stress and looses some of its ability to digest. Feeding again too soon will only result in the snake not being able to digest the feeder and so again it rids itself of it, compounding the problem from the previous regurgitation.
  9. KNExotics

    KNExotics Member

    Thanks for the help guys. I'll give it another shot next weekend!
  10. Dogboa

    Dogboa Elite Member

    You need to wait 3 weeks after the regurge to attemp another feed. Also, your enclosure is way too big for a post ontogenetic emerald. They instictively want to be in an area that makes them feel secure. Does your emerald "hunt" at night, assuming a classic hanging down with several "S" curves, position? We keep animals of this age in shoe box or file folder size enclosures for 12-24 months.

    Here is a link to some care info that we have used from birth to 2 years, with great success for over 10 years.

    Care Sheet

  11. Vinny

    Vinny Member

    What happen? Do you still have the same prob?

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