This Disappears When Logged In

Neonate Red Jayapura Incomplete Shed

Discussion in 'Green Tree Pythons' started by mrgoodtimes, Feb 12, 2013.

  1. mrgoodtimes

    mrgoodtimes Member

    Hi guys,
    I recently bought a Jayapura green tree python from Ben Siegle, it is a farmed animal. I have had the little guy for only four days. It is in a 12x12x18 exo terra and I am using eco earth as substrate. It is a double sized hatchling.

    I am using a red halogen 25w heat lamp for warmth day and night, and have a 26w flouro on a 12/12 cycle. The temperature ranges from 75f on the ground to 90f under the basking light. The average temperature of the cage is 80f.I am raising the humidity to 85% in the morning and let it drop down to 50% before respraying the enclosure.

    I attempted to feed the snake the day I got it. It did not want to eat but struck at the pinky in a defensive way. It started to shed last night but it has not shed all the way off and is coming off in chunks. I assume this is because it was in shed at Ben Siegle as well as shipping and when I recieved it and had not had a good humidity.

    I took it out of its enclosure and gave it a 15 min bath in lukewarm water (80 degrees) this morning to try and help, it was not happy about that, didn't strike, but wanted out of there. I did not try to peel the sheding skin off while in the bath.

    I was just wondering if there was anything I could do to help with the shed. And also when should I try to feed the lil bugger next? I was going to try again last night but it was sheding so I wanted to wait until after because I know they don't really like to eat in shed. Ben Siegle said it last ate on the 31st.

    And yes I have read the book The (more) Complete Chondro, and have done alot of research, but any input from someone experianced with this kind snake would be much appreciated!

    I tried to upload pictures but its not working for me for some reason....?

  2. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    To be honest you're handling the animal too much and trying to feed way to soon for just having gotten it. For now simply spray the animal with warm to hot water while in the enclosure during the day (cools off as you spray). You can also use the repti shed aid from the petstores it's safe and I've used it before. Don't feed for maybe another week when the animal has been left undisturbed. Chondros can be more delicate at a young age more so then other snakes. It'll be fine not eating but don't stress it out. The other thing is being farmed you should take a fecal sample to the vet when you get one.

    Also for pix try using flicker or something like that. I can't upload through the site either. Would like to see pix and can help with info. Also how are you checking the temps and humidity? Check out MVF forum as a resource for chondro info too
  3. mrgoodtimes

    mrgoodtimes Member

    Ya I know they shouldn't be handled this young, and that wasn't really my intention. Soaking my other snakes helped them shed so i figured it'd be the same for this lil thing, but ya, I'll leave it well enough alone for a week before trying to feed again. And it just had a bowel movement so I'll try to run that to the vet for a check.

    I check the temps and humidity with a digital and standard dial type device. I have a temp gun on the way so that will give me a more exact reading when it gets here.

    I got the pics for ya here on flickr:

    IMG_0320 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    IMG_0318 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    Thanks for the help!
  4. shinta

    shinta Member

    Each chondro has a schedule for skin and defecation are different depending on the sex, age and state of chondro itself. Baby chondro molting generally about 6-8 weeks, the adult takes longer. Do not let the humidity is too low in the period of molting, molting period is generally about 10-14 days. Do not handle or play, feed, and move chondro molting period!, Because it would create stress chondro.

    Size Cage

    The ideal size for placing an adult Chondro is long 50 cm wide and a minimum height of 40 cm. Average temperature - the average 29oC - 31oC. Cages that are too big and will cause excessive ventilation difficulty keeping warm and the humidity in the cage. High recommended cages for arboreal animals but height should not exceed 75 cm
    humidity enclosure for chondro important especially in the molting period. Chondro skin is very thin and easy to dry, so if the humidity is less, will have difficulty in chondro change his skin.

    Do not pooled water in the cage because it will make the enclosure too moist and can cause respiratory diseases, including infections of the skin, and of course the moss growing on the enclosure.

    Spray the cage and the chondro taste in the morning and evening, when the cage dries in less than three hours it indicates moisture is lacking.

    Chondro generally happy to drink from the spot - water spots attached to the body of semprottan, therefore make sure that the water in the spray equipment is always clean.

    Chondro not require special lighting such as vita-lite lamps and much more. It is more important to keep lighting for 12 hours and dark for 12 hours. Chondro nocturnal animals, they are usually less active in the light of circumstances or during the day and was very active in the dark or at night.
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  5. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    Okay that's not such a bad set up you have. I would ignore anything the dial gauges say though. Fairly inaccurate and could steer you way wrong. Use digital with probe for both the temp and humidity. If you cover the screen top it will hold humidity a lot better. but not sure if possible if you're using a heat lamp....(try aluminum foil on half, will keep some humidity in and some heat out, wont be bothered by heat lamp) Normally I don't spray directly on my animals but with your shed issues it can't hurt. I can't quite tell how bad it is from the pic. If it's only a few little pieces you could let it be till the next shed. Also the humidity doesn't have to drop so low. There's a lot of debate on how much it should there should be, everyone has opinions so I'll tell you what I do. When in shed I don't let it drop below 80%. For neonates I'll keep it around 80% most of the time because on average that's what most breeders have agreed on for neonates. My cages when sprayed get to basically 100% and go down through out the day at night they may be around 60 something. There is a difference between a wet cage and a humid cage. Though you do want water for the most part just keep humidity high not a wet cage or animal. i use cypress mulch and has been working great for me. If the ambient temps in your room where it's kept are high enough you can even do away with your heat lamp and use UTH to raise temps enough. In my experience heat lamps raise temps too much in those 12x12x18. Please feel free to ask anything and I'll try to help in what I can. Most of my experience with them has been from trial and error so I'm no expert. I can only tell you what has worked for me and what I've picked up from some awesome breeders along the way.
  6. mrgoodtimes

    mrgoodtimes Member

    Cool, ill stick with the digital probe for humidity and temp readings for the most part then. I have the screen 75% covered, I used clear packing tape on both sides of the screen so it hold humidity better, leaving the §ce under the heatlamp for ventalation. The room its in stays at about 72f so I def need the heat lamp going.

    It looks like its got most of the way out of its shed skin, so that's a good thing. Ill try to keep the humidity up also while its young. I also got it a magnetic water dish to set higher up in the cage because I don't think its coming down to drink, hopefully will help keep it hydrated. I am only using RO water to spray and fill drinking dishes, so as long as I clean the water bowls, the water is as clean as it can get.

    Thanks for your input buddy!
  7. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    okay couple of last things :) having the higher area temps at 90 may be a little much. Most people keep their chondros in the mid 80s. Also the packing tape may get hot enough to let off fumes from the adhesive.... not sure of your situation exactly but just a thought.. The last thing is, they do come down to drink water, also why their humidity is kept high. Though many people believe they only drink from their coils (and they do) they will reach down at night to drink from bowls. Clean cool water is very important but I think you're all over it. By the way welcome to chondros and your new addiction! ;)
  8. mrgoodtimes

    mrgoodtimes Member

    Lol, thanks JoeyG, I really appreciate the input!

    Ill do switch out the packing tape for something else. I'll play w the temps a bit too to try to get it closer to 85 in the higher basking areas. I may just go ahead and put a heat mat at the bottom and raise the light, or remove it if the heat pad can get the temps better.
  9. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    I have under tank heaters in my enclosures. They come on during the day and with moist substrate they help raise my humidity. Just don't soak it while the heaters have been on a while or they can crack. If I need to add water to them I do it usually before they turn on in the morning to avoid stress cracks. Learned that the hard way :) They help a lot and since the snakes are not terrestrial you can leave it on all day. At night they go off and that helps to drop humidity more naturally.
  10. mrgoodtimes

    mrgoodtimes Member

    OK so in order to get my temps at a steady 85 ive bought one of these: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Temperature Controller for Heat Mat

    Its made for heat mats but it should work perfect with the red halogen to moderate the temperature day and night. Ill have it come on at 83f and go off when the heat hits 87f and that should keep a perfect temp.

    I know that red lights aren't supposed to be visible to reptiles but will having the light cut on and off throughout the night stress it out, do you think? If they cant see red then one wouldn't think so, huh?

Share This Page