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In Brumation?

Discussion in 'Uromastyx' started by Boxraddict, Nov 19, 2016.

  1. Boxraddict

    Boxraddict Active Member

    My saharan uromastyx's age is unknown to me, probably 7 inches. I've had him about 8 months.

    Recently, he doesn't seem to be dying but is sleeping a ton in his cave on the cooler side of his 40 gallon breeder (36x18x16). When I lift up his cave, I find his body temperature cold, and he's asleep.

    I keep a 150watt bulb over his tank and an 18" UVB Repti bulb and fixture over that end too.

    His substrate is washed playsand, I used to use millet seed but didn't like it, he kept digging in it but just kicks all over the place.

    I leave no water in his tank. I feed him tons of mixed greens, flower petals, lentils and some seeds. Lately he's not eaten, he just wants to sleep in his cave where I find him with a cold body every day.

    I try to place him on the hot end on his basking slate or rocks, but he will stay maybe 5 minutes, then he proceeds to walk around a few minutes before finding his way back into his cave on the cool end.

    I am no expert but I do not believe he's dying or sick, he walks, acts fine for the 10 minutes a day I see him.

    Sorry for the long post, but I am wondering if he or SHE, brumating and if so am I disrupting that by removing him from his cave and to the hot side at least once daily?
     
  2. Darkbird

    Darkbird Moderator Staff Member

    First, double check all your cage parameters, basking surface temp and ambient both. With the change in seasons, most homes tend to get cooler and cage temps can fall quite a bit. Have to say I don't know anything about uro brumation habits, so I can't really comment there. Is it still eating?
     
  3. Boxraddict

    Boxraddict Active Member

    He is not eating no. I feed his favorites but he won't bite. :( Ambient temps are cooler lately.
     
  4. kriminaal

    kriminaal HH Block Leader Staff Member Premium Member

    He's trying to brumate, don't bug him.
    There's a proper way to get them ready for it but since he is already on the go, I wouldn't worry about it.
     
  5. kriminaal

    kriminaal HH Block Leader Staff Member Premium Member

    Here is brumation info from DeerFern Farms website.
    First, stop feeding Bandeds, Mali's, Moroccans, and Egyptians about 2 weeks prior to the start of your "winter". Cut severely back on the amounts but continue to feed Arabians, Ornates, both benti species, Saharans and Sudanese Uromastyx. We mostly offer Romaine and endive at this time primarily for their high water content. Avoid peas, beans, and any high protein foods. At the same time cut your day length to 10 hours of light but leave the cage temperatures close to normal during the day, while trying to keep no hotter than 70F at night. After the first week, we drop day length down to 9 hours per day. All else stays the same. At the end of week 2, we drop day length to 8 hours per day, eac hweek, lossing onehour of daylength till down to 4 to 6 hours per day. Try to maintain the cage temperatures around 60F to 65F for at least 20 hours per day. Then for at least 4 hours per day, we turn on the basking lights so that the cage temperature hits at least 80's F, preferably 85F, for at least 2 full hours. The goal here is to stimulate the immune system to kick in and gut function to reactivate for at least 2 hours each day. Failure to do this will significantly increase your mortality rate, especially for Ornates, Sudanese, and the benti. If you haven't cleared the guts of your Mali's, etc, they too risk suffering from gut paralysis and eventual necrosis. During this time we still offer limited food to the Arabians, etc but generally restrict food for the Banded, Moroxcan groups. Note we still have bird seed in the cage as bedding, so some feeding might be occurring, but except for the benti and Saharans, most Uromastyx will not seek food at this time. We continue this to produce a "winter" of approx. 6 to 8 weeks. We then reverse the process, bumping the cage day temp by an hour each week. At thesametime we are slowly get back up to normal summer day and night temperatures. During this "spring" buildup time , we try to keep our night temps near 70'F. Most our Uro's will be up and basking by the end of "spring" week three and eating lightly by week four. By the time you are back to 10 hour days most should be back to their normal activity levels. This system has worked well for us for many years running now and several other breeders use a very similar system with good success as well.
     
    Darkbird likes this.

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