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Help Please! New Rankin Won't Eat

Discussion in 'Bearded Dragons' started by dragonfly777, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. dragonfly777

    dragonfly777 Member

    Hi I am new to the forums and lizard owning in general. I come desperately seeking advice. 2 weeks ago Saturday I got a Rankin lizard a small breed of beardie. He was born in August. The first few days I had him he disk't eat but I had just got him and I knew he was still adjusting and I was still trying to get his temps up in the Viv. However he is still not eating. He may have ate 1-2 crickets the first few days and he pooped on his 4th day. Since then I have offered him crickets daily. Fresh veggies every day dandelion green kale apple banana carrot sweet potatoes peas I even broke down and got home some baby food. Also tried little mealworms which he was terrified of! Please advise me! Thank you!
     
  2. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, can you give a few details of how you`re keeping the lizard; enclosure size and type, type of heating/lighting, ambient (air) temps and the surface temp at the basking site, and finally, can you put a few photos up? Thanks!
     
  3. cassicat4

    cassicat4 Subscribed User Premium Member

    In addition^, could you provide info on things such as location of the enclosure, how often you handle/invade his space, how old he is, whether he was a pet store/breeder/Craigslist/etc. purchase, and how you've attempted to feed him?
     
  4. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    I second everything they asked. And want to know:what is his typical behavior?
     
  5. dragonfly777

    dragonfly777 Member

    iOTE=murrindindi;444999]Hi, can you give a few details of how you`re keeping the lizard; enclosure size and type, type of heating/lighting, ambient (air) temps and the surface temp at the basking site, and finally, can you put a few photos up? Thanks![/QUOTE]

    He is in a 10 gallon aquarium with a wire top. He has a uvb light that runs the length of the tank and a 60 watt red heat lamp. Both bulbs are brand new. I don't have a sweet digital thermometer like I know is recommended but his warm side is 90-95 and the cool side about 10 degrees cooler. OH and I also have an undertank heater on the warm side because it was not getting warm enough.

    His enclosure is in my bedroom. I tried to give him plenty of space the first few days so I wouldn't freak him out. After 4-5 days I did pick him up a couple times a day..not for long..he was really calm and seem not to mind. The last few days I've handled him a little longer mostly just to move him to the food bowl. And I gave him a warm bath two days ago hoping it would encourage his appetite. He seemed to like it. He is 4 month old and he was bought by my boss at a reptile show. He came from a college herp club.

    his behaviour at first was lethargic. Once I got him warmed up he is friskier and friendly but he hides a lot too. Sorry I can't post pics at the moment (at work) but I'd be happy to later. Thank you all so much for your replies!
     
  6. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    About how big is he?
     
  7. dragonfly777

    dragonfly777 Member

    about 5 inches
     
  8. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member

    I almost did a stupid and say WOW so small :-" (seriously I did)
     
  9. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi again,
    I have to say that a 10gallon tank sounds much too small (though I`m not sure how big it is in cm or inches)?
    I imagine it will be extremely difficult to get a proper temp range. Also, because you don`t have an accurate digital thermometer you have no idea what the actual temps are (the analogue type can be out by as much as 15%).
    You only need to know two temps; the coolest ambient @ approx 24c (75f), then the surface temp at the basking site @ approx 40 to 43c (105 to110f).
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  10. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    A 10gal is 20x11x12 inches or 51 x 25 x 30centimeters. The size is ok for now though the temp gradient will not be as varied as it should be, but If you can switch him over to a 55gal or 40g breeder it would be alot better. If he is switched over now you wont have to do it ever again...I think...
     
  11. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member

    Rankins only get about 12 inches or so tops
     
  12. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    That's what I thought so a 40g tank would be a good size for an adult and still allow a large temp gradient.
     
  13. dragonfly777

    dragonfly777 Member

    ok I am having a hard time uploading pictures, possibly because I'm on my phone? Anyhow I wil work on getting the digital thermometer, though the one I have seems fairly sensitive and accurate, when it, reaches the right temperature he gets perky. Except the last few days when he ha been lethargic which lead to my initial post. As far as the tank size I do plan on upgrading down the road but one of the reasons I went with the Rankin vs. A full size bearded because space is an issue in my current home. Back to my original question. Does anyone have advice on getting him to eat? (Lets just assume for the moment temps are correct. If it's warm enough for him to want to run around I assume it warm enough for him to eat and digest) should I try to bath him again? As I said he has only pooped once in the 2 weeks I've had him. Thank you all for your input. I have cared for a broad range of animals,I actually work with dogs for a living, and getting animals to eat has usually been something I'm good at. With this little guy I'm stumped.
     
  14. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Get your temperatures corrected and leave it alone for a few days. Then try to feed and see what happens.
     
  15. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    You have to understand how reptiles bodies work. If the temps are not right they cannot digest their food and it will rot in their stomaches. So if the temps are down they don't eat. You need a good thermometer to know for sure what the stemperatures are. The analog pet store ones are junk. I have personally tested some that were 10-15 degrees off! That can make a world of differnce to an animal who's body is run by heat.
     
  16. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, I would have to assume the temps may not be quite where they should be, though stress is probably also involved in the dragon not eating, too. The best thing to do is get a digital thermometer with a probe or a Temp-gun asap, and no more handling for the time being (including bathing).
    Just because he/she moves around doesn`t mean the temps are satisfactory, they can operate in a range, even though that may be lower than their preferrred "activity body temp" (just not as efficiently).
     
  17. dragonfly777

    dragonfly777 Member

    ok so where would the best place to get a temp gun be? And if the temp needs to come up what's the best way? Go up to a higher wattage bulb? Also is he going to survive that long without eating?
     
  18. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I would go with a good digital with remote probe. This will let you move the prob around and see what the temps are in variosu parts of the cage. You can get these at Lowes, Home Depot garden sections
    Walmart has them back in the area where they have heaters and fans.

    Tempguns are fine for spot checking things but I would suggest a regular thermometer for constant monitoring.
    TempGun | Precise temperature measurement
     
  19. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Without pics of the dragon we can't say yes he will or no he is gonna die, but assuming he isn't severely underweight he can make it a week or so.
    I bought my temp gun from petsmart for $30 or you can go to Walmart and get a digital thermometer with probe for $12. Most home improvement stores will carry both of them.
     
  20. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member



    Hi you`ve been given the info on where to buy the thermometer etc, so I`ll just say they can go for quite a long time without food, so no need to worry just yet. I still think the tank is too small to get a decent temp range, but the best way to try is with a low wattage halogen bulb (flood, not spot) @ between 40 to 50watts (it`s trial and error), then raise or lower either the bulb or basking object until you get the required surface temp @ between approx 40 to 43c (105 to 110f). What`s the usual ambient temp in the room where the tank is (both day and night)?
    EDIT: They go through some very tough times in the wild (reptiles have evolved to cope with them for the most part), I don`t think he/she is going to die providing you can get the conditions in place! ;)
     

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