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Heating Source/tail Not As Fat As It Should Be???

Discussion in 'Leopard Geckos' started by gecko_mom, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. gecko_mom

    gecko_mom Member

    Hello ;)
    I've had my baby leo since the beginning of June. I've had two geckos in the past. One was a african-fat tail that I had to give away. :( And the other was a leo I adopted from a friend and she was very malnourished... I nursed her back to health thankfully but had to give her away to a friend because I had to move from the east coast to west coast. So this is the first time I've bought a leo myself, and the first time I've gotten a herp newborn at that. My past geckos were both adults.
    But anyway, his name is Hewitt and he is my favorite thing in the whole world. But I was having some trouble lately and I wanted to ask. Firstly, I have an under-tank heater for him. I've been monitoring the thermostat in his terrarium, and the temp fluctuates between 70 and 75. I'm thinking this can't be good, and I don't know why it does this. I know it should be between 75-80. What I was wondering is if anyone can recommend a specific product that I could get as a secondary heat source to help with the fluctuation? I don't want the temp above 80.
    Secondly I want to talk about Hewitt's tail girth. I don't think he has stick tail disease or anything like that, but I'm afraid it should be a lot thicker than it is. I know fat is stored in the tail, and a thinner tail is usually a sign he needs to eat, but he eats every day. I always have crickets in his terrarium at his disposal whenever he wants to eat in the evening, since I sleep and I'm busy so I can't always be home to feed him. I house his crickets in a carrier and they have water and vitamins and supplements before he consumes them. I took him for a check up a few months back, and the vet says he's perfectly healthy. The doctor told me he should eat about 3 crickets a day. I've included a picture below. I'm wondering if his tail being a little thin has something to do with the heat problem, because maybe he's not digesting properly? But he hasn't regurgitated and his poop is normal. I'm also wondering if maybe his age is part of it. I know his tail is not going to be super thick since he's just still a baby, and he's quite small as you can see, but I'm not sure what to do.
  2. gecko_mom

    gecko_mom Member

    Edit: Also maybe I need a heating pad with stronger wattage? I just thought of that. Can anyone recommend me what they use? currently using Zoo Med.
  3. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    How are you measuring temps? Also please put up pics of the enclosure. Is he on a cricket only diet? What size crickets are you feeding?
  4. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    You need a different vet! 3 crickets a day is a starvation regemine!
    Let the gecko eat as many appropriate sized crickets as it will eat in 5 to 10 minutes. The crickets should be the length of the width of the geckos eyes.
    Feeding too large of crickets can result in intestinal blockage and back legs paralysis.
    Increase the food and the tail should swell.
  5. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    I would agree. This is a pretty good indication this vet doesn't have herp experience. I would add in some wax worms as well atleast for a couple days, to give some extra calories. And try Phoenix worms (calci-worms) for some extra nutrition. Dont forget the calcium+d3 supp.
  6. gecko_mom

    gecko_mom Member

    Thank you so much!!! I will head to the store and get some worms!!
  7. gecko_mom

    gecko_mom Member

    oh my god are you serious???? I feel like a terrible mother now :-( i knew your supposed to allow them to eat as many as they can in 10-15 minutes when i had my adults. but i've never cared for a baby before!!!! i knew that number seemed very low!!!! i will not be going back to that vet!!!
  8. gecko_mom

    gecko_mom Member

    I am feeding him small crickets. And I am currently using a Zoo Med temp gauge but i bought a new digital one so its more precise and its coming later this week. He is on crickets only as of right now because my idiot of a vet told me to stop giving him mealworms like a was.
  9. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    Mealworms are good as part of a balanced varied diet, but suck on their own.
  10. Qwerty3159

    Qwerty3159 Elite Member

    Not your fault. There's a lot of crap information that gets spread around in this hobby. You'll find people on the Internet claiming that mealworms will eat their way out of your lizard's stomach, even though if you've ever accidentally dropped a mealworm in water dish you'll see they drown in seconds. And that's in water, not stomach acid!
    Mealworms are a fine food source as part of a varied diet as long as they are appropriately sized.
  11. KelleyB

    KelleyB Member

    If he's a baby, I would not give him wax worms. Just definitely let him eat more crickets and mealworms, 3 is nowhere near enough. Wax worms are high in fat (not good fat) and can be addictive. I'd avoid those until he's at least 6 months old. His tail will gradually fatten up once he's eating a proper amount. And as someone else mentioned, don't forget to dust with supplements! I keep pure calcium, calcium+D3, and a multivitamin on hand to dust insects. Multivitamins 2 days a week, and alternating calcium and calcium+D3 the other days.

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