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Dome Repair?

Discussion in 'Electricity/Wiring' started by justor, Mar 8, 2012.

  1. justor

    justor Elite Member

    Well it appears my zoo med deep dome fixture is no longer working. I noticed my iguana enclosure was showing very low temps this morning so I immediately checked and sure enough the CHE was cold as ice. The heater is only a few months old so i don't think it's the problem. I tried another bulb in the fixture and nothing so I guess that's the issue. Right now the only other fixture I have is rated up to 65 watts. So I am currently substituting my 150 watt ceramic heater with a 60 watt red heat lamp :(

    is there any way to repair these domes? I can't see anything obviously wrong with it, but then again I would have no idea what to look for...
     
  2. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, have you checked the small metal tabs inside the bulb holder, sometimes they don`t contact the bulb properly, and you need to just use a small screwdriver to prise them out a little (disconnect first, of course)!
     
  3. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    Either the little tabs are not making contact or you have a lose wire. They're pretty basic, good luck
     
  4. justor

    justor Elite Member

    Thanks, I'm going to give it a try when I get home from work. I figured it shouldn't be too hard.
     
  5. justor

    justor Elite Member

    Well I pulled the metal tab out a bit, but it had no effect. I snapped a few pictures so maybe someone can point out something I may have overlooked. This is the inside of the socket:
    999cbe37.jpg

    This is the back of the fixture beneath the ceramic casing. All wiring seems solid as far as I can tell.
    6d0be62b.jpg

    Not being able to find any sort of flaw or defect I thought I would take a look at the inside of the switch.
    fa8526ff.jpg

    You can't really see anything in the pic, but I have a hunch this is where the problem lies. Now I do know how a basic electrical switch works. When off the circuit is incomplete, and by switching it on you physically connect the broken circuit. The component that is supposed to complete the circuit on this switch is a small flat piece of metal located right under the switch. Neither switch position connects that piece of metal to the wires on both sides. In other words the circuit is broken in both positions. In one position the piece of metal is connected to one of the wires, but not the other. In the other position it is connected to neither.

    So I'm sure anyone reading this is sufficiently confused by now, but hopefully you followme.

    Can I bend that piece of metal or something so that it connects? Which position is most likely supposed to be the "on" position? Or is this something I should not try to fix?
     

    Attached Files:

  6. HerpFanatic

    HerpFanatic Elite Member

  7. justor

    justor Elite Member

    How difficult would it be for me to replace it? Would any soldering be required?
     
  8. HerpFanatic

    HerpFanatic Elite Member

    Not hard at all. No soldering at all, they have screws on the inside. You would just screw the wire down. If you know how to use a screwdriver it is pretty easy. When you test the worst that can happen is you pop a breaker. Just test with a regular bulb. This way you only blow a $1 bulb should you do something wrong.
     
  9. mld

    mld Subscribed User Premium Member

    My husband works in a hardware store, he mentioned that you can bring your dome in and have one of the guys in the electrical department have a look and some may even put one together for you.

    I had a problem with one of my domes and the switch was getting really hot and then wouldn't turn switch on and off any more. We felt more comfortable with changing the cord and switch.

    If you don't want to deal with any of that, buy a new fixture.
     
  10. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    BY the time it's all said and done you can get those at petstore for about 12 or 15 dollars. May be worth the money to simply replace the whole thing. If you don't want to do all that then just bypass the switch and it'll turn on and off when you unplug it or vise versa.
     
  11. justor

    justor Elite Member

    You know I never thought about just bypassing the switch altogether... I don't need it at all as the heat emitter is on 24/7 connected to a thermostat. That should be easy enough. Thanks for the idea.
     
  12. justor

    justor Elite Member

    Well that did it. Icarus is nice and warm again!
     
  13. HerpFanatic

    HerpFanatic Elite Member

    Glad you got it working.
     
  14. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    Happy to hear things are back to normal :)
     
  15. diehardislanders

    diehardislanders Elite Member

    Just goy to HD and buy a dome light for $8. they carry 6" 8.5" 12". It is way cheaper, and serves the same purpose
     
  16. diehardislanders

    diehardislanders Elite Member

    edit: HD is home depot, sorry about the abbrev. I am sure any hardware store would carry
     
  17. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Make sure that the dome has a ceramic socket. The plastic ones tend to melt.
     
  18. justor

    justor Elite Member

    Lol thanks for the info, but the dome is working fine again and has been for about two months since I removed the switch ;)
    What's the highest wattage these $8 domes can handle? I assume the larger ones take higher wattages? I have a 150W CHE in mine.
     
  19. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    It should be marked on the dome. Little plastic sticker on the inside
    I beleive the 8 inch are rated for a 150 watt bulb. For a CHE I would go with the 10 inch.
     

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