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Burmese Feeding Problem....(2 Months Havent Eaten)

Discussion in 'Burmese Pythons' started by banto, Apr 1, 2009.

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  1. banto

    banto New Member

    Hi everyone,

    I have a Burmese Python which I call him Bimba. Well to be honest I am a new Burmese owner. Before I used to have Ball python but when I had to move to China I have to give it to a friend. so I would be asking for some advices from you guys.
    I know there are lots of posts like mine about the feeding problems and I nearly read them all and kind of applied them. but my problem is still going on. so help please....

    Here is the deal, I bought my Bimba on 3th of Feb. and I saw him being fed in front of me on 2th of Feb, the owner told me that he was feeding It with alive mouse. well it seemed like no problem. I used to feed my Ball python time to time with the alive ones but mostly prefer frozen(or stunned ones). whatever, I took him back to my place and set his place and let him get used for a week. Cleaned his cage when he had a stool.
    Next week I tried to feed him with dwarf hamster. he was not interested.

    During that time he kind of burned his skin while he tried to climb to the lamp (silly me I didn’t cover the lamp that time. But it is all covered now.) then the next week his eyes get milky and couple of days later changed the skin.
    well since that time I am trying to feed my Bimba with any way that I can, but nothing....

    He is not interested at all. I tried frozen, stunned, alive, different sizes whatever I can think of but nothing nothing and nothing... he is not interested at all. I can only find Hamsters around my area (it is a small Chinese city and hard to find pet shops, and the pet shop I bought it from is in a really far city).

    So what should I do. I am out of ideas. I am thinking maybe he is not happy in his cage. I kind of used a fish aquarium and modified to a lizard cage in the best way I can.(50cmx30cmx20cm) I keep the temperature and humidity close to perfect.

    He is right now like 100-110cm. I try to not handle him so much but time to time I do and he seems pretty health but he is getting really skinny recently.

    I am open to any advices, and please also remember that I am in a small Chinese city so my resources are limited. I really kind of get attached to Bimba just in 2 months and I want him to be a big and healthy Burmese Python.

    I am sorry for this long post but I wanted to make everything clear for you guys so can get better advises for my case. I will be waiting for your quick replies

    Thanks a lot

  2. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Welcome to HerpCenter! From Ball python to Burmese is a very LARGE jump!
    First off, exactly what is the temperature in the tank. Telling us it is "right" doesn't tell us anything.
    Next, a tank that size is way too small for that snake! A 110cm (3.6 ft) snake in an enclosure 50cmx30cmx20cm (1.6x1.0x0.65ft) is cramped and feels trapped.
    A snake that size should be housed with a floor area in the neighborhood of 120.9x 60.9cm (4x2ft)and even that is not going to last that long.
  3. David McConley

    David McConley Elite Member

    Welcome to HCN! First off, you mentioned his eyes going milky and his skin changed- I assume he went ahead and shed? If not, how long ago did his eyes go milky, if it did shed- did it shed okay or was it peeling off in several areas. I am trying to guage if the humidity is right along with the temps.

    As Merlin said that cage will absolutely have to be replaced with something larger. Small cages like that can stress your snake. A stressed snake will be very hesitant to eat.

    Also forgot to mention if the snake did not yet shed- he may refuse to eat until he has, although mine eat when they are in shed or not.
  4. banto

    banto New Member

    Thanks a lot for welcoming and the quick reply you guys.

    well I kind of know that Burmese would be a big step but since south Asia is their main home place and I kind of made a lot of research before I bought it, I thought I could handle it easily. well I am still willing to do my best to keep Bimba happy in his envirement.

    I forgot to mention but yes he had shedded, in a one nice peace it was 1 month ago. as i said I am trying to keep the temp/humid as good as I can. and to watch it daily I have 3 thermometers around the cage.

    the cold side of the cage is between 25-27C and the warm place is around 30-32C. he has a hiding place in the warming side which he likes spending time in there mostly. I also have a night bulb and a heating pad. I usually use them when there is a guest in my place and they can't sleep in light but still i never let the temp to be below 25C. for the other times, to keep the heat constant I don't turn of the day light in nights.
    The humidity was kind of a problem at the beginning but after I kind of isolated the cage I was able to handle it. now It is always higher then %50 mostly between %60-70. He has a water tank but some how he doesn't like it at all. he used it during the shedding and after then that so rarely. I still Change water with fresh water time to time.

    I know the cage is the biggest problem I have now. I searched for it but I couldn't find a size I wanted(or it was sooo expensive) now I am gonna make a new cage. I wanted to make a cage half wooden and half glass but I couldn't find any one who can do the designs I wanted in here. now i am planning to make a totally glass cage. it would be the size of 100x50x50cm. is that ok? or should i go directly to 120X60X50cm like Merlin said? any advices for the Cage will also be welcome. and what thickness of glass should I use?

    what about the size of the pray? right now I have hamsters around 10cm. I am able to find small rabbits around 20cm or smaller prays like dwarf hamsters. to tell the truth I tried them all. I can't find rats. (even though there are a lot just running around in my building but I wouldn't go for them :) ) but the size of the hamsters seems pretty reasonable to me.

    but any advice to try... I am ready to go...

    thanks alot
  5. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    I would go with the dimensions Merlin said right off so you don't have to build twice. And make it out of wood with a glass front, you will have a hard time with heat if it's all glass.
  6. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    You misunderstand!
    The size cage I recommended was for the snake at the size it is NOW! It isn't going to stay that size!
    There is no sense building a cage that size only to have to build another one in a few months! That is going to be one BIG snake and you are looking at needing an enclosure 243.84cm long x 60.96cm to 121.92cm deep and 91.44cm to 121.92cm tall! The size enclosure that is needed for one of these giants is one of the things that keeps people from getting them.
    Building a cage out of all glass is going to present several problems. I would make the whole thing out of 3/4 inch plywood and just have a glass front.

    And you should not be running a visible light 24 hours a day. They need a dark period just like we do.
    The feeder should be the size of the snakes body at the widest point.
  7. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    The cheapest type of lamp to use at night would be an infra-red lamp, the amount of light these emit would not bother the snake, as Merlin has said, you should NOT keep the daylight lamps on during the night.
    With a very large enclosure you may need to install a humidifier, this is going to be a very large animal in a relatively short time, and you need to build the largest enclosure as soon as possible, otherwise you are spending money on something which the animal will very quickly outgrow! Glass is absolutely useless for retaining heat, and also gives the animal very little " privacy". Good luck!
    P.S. You will need at least 6mm. plate glass, I would personally use at least 2 pieces, as one piece that size will be extremely heavy!! And definitely fix a lock!!
  8. David McConley

    David McConley Elite Member

    Definitely build the larger cage now so you don't have to build another. I currently have a 12.5 ft Burmese in a 6ft long by 3ft wide by 2ft high cage with 2 side by side doors. Each door has 4 window locks and 2 padlocks (to keep my 2 year old son out). I am considering building a larger 8x4x2 cage soon simply because I want him to have a better space to live in. I may even consider going larger depending on the amount of space I can figure out. However, I am digressing. The constant light could be the key element in why your snake is not eating as has been said in the previous posts. Try the change of lights and the larger cage and see if that changes anything.

    Also a total glass cage would be very fragile and easy to break when your burm gets larger. They really like to spread out and will press against the walls of the enclosure, allowing the walls to crack or break. The thickness of the glass would be very difficult to work with.
  9. banto

    banto New Member

    Thanks guys for the advices, I totally understand that I need to build a much better cage.
    yesterday I searched for a lot and found a new place which can make cage like what ever I ask for. so now I need to design one for them . the think is I really need to be clear with them. if I just explain them what to do I am kind of sure they will end up with something else.

    so in this case i am again asking for your help guys. can you guys share your Burmese Cages pictures so I can also have idea and show the designer. I kind of liked this design:


    my dimentions will be like 150x60x60cm (More or less). so please share your Cage pictures for ideas...

    thanks a lot
  10. Drache Dame

    Drache Dame Elite Member

    As Merlin and David said before, if you're going to have a cage built, you're best bet is to get the adult cage built. The SMALLEST the adult cage can be would be 244X61X92cm. 150X60X60 won't last very long at all, and you'd really be wasting your money.
  11. David McConley

    David McConley Elite Member

    Drache Dame- Thanks for the back up. Banto- you really need to get the smaller dimension enclosure out of your head. Trust me, I have a 12 foot burm in my living room and his enclosure is 180cmx90cmx61cm and he is ready for an upgrade. If I had been smart I would have built it to the larger size to begin with. At least I can use this present cage for my smaller burm for a year or so before I have to upgrade her.
  12. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Absolutely! You would be lucky if that cage lasted a year!
    That's one of the major mistakes people make with cages. They don't take into account that the animals will GROW!
    And quickly too!
  13. David McConley

    David McConley Elite Member

    With my guys I think I have less to worry about. I think the person who had them last stunted their growth as he has only grown 18 inches in three years. The same with my female but I still want them to be more comfortable. I know they grow throughout their lives but he is now 7 and she is 5 so the main growing years are pretty much behind them unless they hit a real growth spurt in the very near future. I will say he has gone from10.5' and 20lbs to 12+ ft and around 70 lbs since I have had him and the female went from 7' and 12lbs to 8.5' and 25lbs in the 3 years they've been with me.
  14. djroberts

    djroberts Member

    was just woundering if the burm you bought was from a reputable pet store in china or was it bought from a back street shop this may be why he aint eating as he may have been resently caught and and could be stressed due to not yet be used to being handeld also you mentioned he was eating mice is thier no way you can get hold of any or even live chicks . also a good handler is a smart handler not to say you dont no what you are doing but you should have deffinatly done some research first .
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