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Beardie Hasn't Pooped or Slept in a While...

Discussion in 'Bearded Dragons' started by starkdaughter, May 29, 2014.

  1. starkdaughter

    starkdaughter New Member

    I've had my bearded dragon, Spyro, for about four-five months (I got him back in February for my birthday as a hatchling). He came with a medium sized tank (I don't remember the exact size. Maybe about twenty gallons?). The floor is lined with a normal reptile liner - it's kind of carpet-like? but not really - and he was using just a standard bulb for a heat lamp and a black UV light. The tank usually reaches about mid - to - high 80s during the day, and about 70s at night. The temp gauge is in the middle of the tank so it's hard to tell exactly. The humidity is about 25%. Every day, he eats about 6-8 mealworms. He gets them either a couple of hours after the light gets turned on, or when I get home from school.

    Very recently, we had to move. Spyro spent about four-five hours on my lap (still in his tank) in the car. The temp got up to 90, and I noticed he had his mouth open; though I know now that it was because he was hot. As soon as we got to the new place, I set up his stuff and made sure he had water to drink.

    Both of his lights went out just before the move, so a friend of ours who works for Petco (or Petsmart? One of the two) gave us new lights. The heat light bulb is blue, which is supposedly better for their eyes, and the UV light is now red. I did some looking around, and apparently it keeps them awake? This is obviously true, as since we got him set up in my room he hasn't slept a wink. At least, not that I've seen. This is about since Saturday/Sunday. He also hasn't pooped since Saturday, though it was a very large one the last time he did.

    I'm a first-time owner, and I tend to worry a lot. I've told my mom I want to take him to the vet, but she just says he'll be fine. And when I try to pick him up, he stands up on his legs, flattens his stomach, and even sometimes hisses at me. I haven't tried it recently, but he seems very alert still, though his eyes droop, probably because he's so tired. He just sits on a rock and watches all day, though today he did a lot of moving around in his tank. And like I said, he still eats everything I give him.

    Can anyone help..?
  2. KaterPie

    KaterPie New Member

    Hey. Sorry to hear that all of this is happening. It sounds like Spyro is very stressed out from the move and change in lights. Keep working with him. It's a lot to handle. You need to gain the trust back. Just pet him, go slow till he let's you pick him up and really try to give him a bath. It will calm him and help get his system moving with the poop. Rub his belly. Give him treats he likes. Does he only eat meal worms? The exoskeleton can be hard for a beardie to digest. Try some melon or wax worms. Dubia roaches are great too and high in protien! This is all in my opinion. I hope any of this helps!!
  3. starkdaughter

    starkdaughter New Member

    He's never had any problem with mealworms before, but I'll definitely try that! Last night, I tried turning off the red light as well last night, and it totally worked. He was out like a light ^^ It got a little too cold in there, but he slept, so that's good (I've always had a hard time keeping it warm in there). When I get home later, I'll try working with him a bit and getting him something different to eat. Does any kind of melon work? Like - could I maybe buy a package of watermelon? Thanks for the help! ^^
  4. Darkbird

    Darkbird Moderator Staff Member

    Ok, I see a lot of things wrong here. Without seeing them or knowing the exact brand or type of bulbs, it sounds as if they are the usual petstore garbage. We need to know the brand, wattage and type of bulbs your currently using. Going by your description and an educated guess in the meantime, I'd say you have one of the "daylight" incandescent bulbs and a regular red heat light. If this is the case, your lizard is getting absolutely no UV, and yes the red light will keep it awake at night if your using this to maintain cage temps at night. I'll wait on making any suggestions on what to change until I know for sure what you have. Now as for the diet, you need to be feeding more than just mealworms. Crickets and dubia roaches would make a good staple diet in addition to the mealies, waxworms should only be given as an occasional treat as they are really mostly fat, basically they are lizard candy. You also need to be offering veggies though it probably won't eat much of them at this stage. We also need the full details of your setup, cage size, exact temps and humidity and how your measuring, and so on. And yes, I'm sure the lizard is probably stressed out of it's mind right now with the move, but it should calm down in time. Best thing will be to leave it be for a week or so.
  5. aromatherapykim

    aromatherapykim Elite Member

    Beardies need a basking spot of 105-115 when they're young. Some say 110-115 but there are exceptions. The heat helps them digest. Turn up the temps and see what happens.
    When they open their mouth they're thermoregulating which is completely normal, it's their way to control their own temp

    Try small or extra small super worms instead of meal worms (depending on beardies size). Meal worms are not near as beneficial as dubia or supers
  6. starkdaughter

    starkdaughter New Member

    My mother bought the lights as a set - I wasn't there when she got them or put them in, so I'm not sure what brand they are. The red light has no voltage stamp on it, but I just replaced it with a 75 watt black UV light. It's a Flucker's brand, which is probably what the other one was.
    The next time we go to the store, we plan on getting him some squash so he can start to eat that. He was on a cricket diet with the occasional mealworms, but he stopped eating the crickets and they just hung out in his tank (even when we dusted them), so he just ended up on a full mealworm diet. I only just recently learned they weren't 100% good for him.
    Like I mentioned before, I can't really remember what the exact size of the tank is. It takes up just a bit more than half of my desk, and it's somewhere near 20-ish gallons, I think. It's definitely big enough for him, though once he reaches full maturity I may have to upgrade.
    He's got a reptile mat on the floor, and two rocks I found outside, as well as a decent sized rock water bowl, which he absolutely loves. He practically lives on that thing.
    Since I put the new light in, the tank has reached around 90 degrees F, and it's at about 10% humidity. I know it's not hot enough, but I have no idea how to make it hotter in there. Plus, the temp gauge is in the middle of the tank on the back wall, and it's hard to be accurate if it's not a thermometer you can point and it'll tell you what it is.
    He got a full night's sleep last night! I turned off the red light, as well, last night, and he was out as soon as I turned it off. He also did poop sometime today, as I saw it when I got home that it was somewhat recent, as it was a little wet still.
  7. zues2k

    zues2k Well-Known Member

    You can get a ceramic heat emitter for night time hours but I am not 100% sure those are safe for beardies or not. You can get the dubai roaches online from quite a few places, just google them. I just bought around 100 for $35ish
  8. aromatherapykim

    aromatherapykim Elite Member

    Ok so I don't like to be the one to this is how it's supposed to be, this is how its not supposed to be because everyone has different opinions on some details. So I'm going to tell you how I keep my dragon, and how I've kept her since I got her when she was 3 months old.
    Puff is in a long exoterra with the front opening doors. It's the longest and largest one they make. She's been in it since she was a baby. Personally I've always kept her on sand which a majority of people advise against, others use reptile carpet, tile, paper towels, and some use bioactive substrates.
    Puff has a reptisun t8 (im pretty sure) 10.0 halogen light. It runs the length of her tank and is on for the 12 hour day cycle. She also has a 150W heat lamp which gives her a basking spot between 110&115. On the cool side of her tank its around 80 during the day and between 74&78 at night. During the 12 hour night cycle there are no lights at all. No red heat bulbs or anything. Colored light disturbs a dragon while they sleep. If you need extra heat at night things light a ceramic heater or heat pad can be used.
    Puff gets a mixture of bugs to eat. She eats dubia roaches mainly, she also gets crickets, pheonix worms, and super worms (whatever the correct size is for how big she is). Twice a week I dust the crickets with calcium powder. This is very important to keep bones healthy and a healthy dragon. When a dragon is young they eat like crazy. They should be fed twice a day once in the morning and once at night. They can eat 100+ bugs a day so don't limit them on how much they can have. They also need a fresh salad offered every morning and left in the tank until that evening. Some good basic things they can have are collard greens, squash, mustard greens, etc. Fruits should be given sparingly and only as occasional treats. There are so many great things you can feed your dragon. I'll find a link for you that shows whats good and bad.
    Puff gets a warm soak in the bath twice a week. i fill it up so she can touch the ground still and make sure it's around 95-100 degree. She soaks for any time between 5 and 20 minutes. Usually she floats around or holds onto my finger until she poops then shes ready to climb out and dry off.
    Um I think this covers a good bit of the basics. Take a look over all this and let me know if you have more questions. :) hope this helps

    oh in their tank they also need a hide that they can go into to feel safe, a tree or something they can climb and elevate to get to a warm basking spot. And I keep a water bowl in there. Puff occasionally drinks from it and lights to poke her hands in it.
  9. starkdaughter

    starkdaughter New Member

    Thanks so much for the help, it really means a lot. I'll look into finding some nice flat rocks to make a little house for him, though I should just buy one (so expensive >.<). I would love to give Spyro baths, but whenever I put my hand in there, he gets up on his legs and jumps away. He'll flatten out his stomach and even go so far as to hiss at me. I managed to pet his head today, but as soon as he moves I get scared he's gonna bite me and yank my hand away. I held him the first day I got him, but other than that it was my mom picking him up to give him baths every night. When he got the big water bowl, the baths stopped (though I can see now why he would poop in it all the time). I have a hard time keeping the algae off of the rock it's made of.
  10. aromatherapykim

    aromatherapykim Elite Member

    as for the hide you dont want to just prop up rocks. if they tip and hes under it it could seriously hurt him. Buying one is much more safe.
    As for getting to know you I started with several weeks of just walking by Puffs tank and saying her name and stopping to talk to her through the glass, then I opened the doors and would talk to her, a few weeks later I would stick my hand in and talk, again a few weeks later I would pet her, then try to hold her in my hands still in the tank, and slowly we would work our way out of the tank until we could get farther and farther and do more and more. It takes a lot of time and patience. Also try hand feeding, hold a worm or roach and see if he will take it from you. it's one of the best ways to bond.
    What I did for water bowls is get a cheap little toothbrush and use that. every day I refill the water bowl if its clean and once a week scrub it down with hot water and the brush. (more then once a week if necessary).
  11. Darkbird

    Darkbird Moderator Staff Member

    Not sure if you have a Menards near you but it's basically the same as a home Depot, but they carry 12 " square natural slate tile that makes an excellent basking platform, set it on the bottom, or up on a couple bricks for a raised platform. And go to walmart and get one of the accurite digital thermometer/hygrometers with the probe, place the probe on the basking spot and the base unit at the other end of the tank. If you have the stick on dial type, they tend to be off enough for it to be an issue. Plus the digitals are only 12 bucks. Your not trying to get the whole cage up to the basking temp, by the way, just the surface temp of the basking site. This can be most easily accomplished by raising the basking platform, rather than increasing the bulb wattage. Higher wattage bulbs dry the cage out too much even for a beardie. You could easily hit the required basking temp with a regular 40w outdoor halogen flood light. Note I said flood not spot, spot bulbs will cause burns. Last thing, start planning for a larger cage now, that one won't be nearly big enough. I keep mine in a 48x24x18, to give you an idea.
  12. sblabton613

    sblabton613 Member

    Sounds like stress and not hot enough to me. It's been said I'm sure but sounds like all the bulbs are uvb which is basically heat. You need uva for him to digest calcium. I have a basking light and uva 10.0 on days and red heat on at night never had a problem with mine not sleeping. But definitely get the uva light and get a digital probe thermometer it's much better more accurate. Temps should be over 100 in the basking spots

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