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Bearded Dragon Concerns

Discussion in 'Bearded Dragons' started by Kasmut, Nov 18, 2012.

  1. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    Then again.. mine is a T8 22" and doesn't have a reflector. Hmm
     
  2. SpookyCheerios

    SpookyCheerios Elite Member

    The Arcadia 12% HO D3+ bulb is a T5, not a T8 (Unless they carry T8's as well somewhere, but I haven't seen one). 12" should be good though.

    Also, beardies can be surprisingly bashful when eating lol. My girl will scarf down up to 100 crickets in front of me, but refuses to eat salads in front of people unless she is very very hungry! They're silly, but it's why we love them =3
     
  3. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member

    Hi Kas,
    I agree with everyone else totally. And good job on the roaches. They are much nicer then crickets for sure. Anyhow - seriously they are right don't handle him right now. I use a small tupperware container...its maybe uhm an inch tall and I bought it new. TakeAlongs Divided Rectangle | Food Storage Containers | RubbermaidSo Dubia cannot climb them. Its still good with even Dubia to leave them in (for now) about half an hour, take them out, wait til next feeding time.

    Another thing that might help is when you are feeding him, talk to him. Gently and softly so he begins to associate you with food. Dragons are far from stupid and associating you to food will help him calm down. And with Dubia you are better (if you can contain them in a bowl) to give him smaller nymphs...Given the pictures the ones that are 3/8 long - 1/2 inch should be about right.

    With the greens, they generally wont eat them at first. Make sure they are cut small though. At 8 inches they truly don't like large pieces.

    And until he begins to eat mist him once a day make sure he doesn't get dehydrated!! And lol don't try and watch him eat. They are weird (especially when its a new place) and often wont eat around you
     
  4. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    Thank you, I was actually just wondering if I should be misting him. Unfortunately showing him the spritzer scared him a little, but he calmed down once he figured it was just full of water xD I just bought a really shallow dish I think is used for mixing soil or... something idk. It's working really well for keeping them in, and he seems to be able to climb in/out well enough. He finally pooped and it was nice and healthy looking, so that's great. :D I always kinda baby talk to him when I go in my room. And yeah he hasn't really eaten any of his veggies aside from the ones I kinda forced in his face. Hopefully he will grow a taste for them soon. :) Oh also, I am giving him pretty small nymphs atm. I mixed in ones that are more his size with really tiny babies I got from a breeder on a bearded dragon forum. So he kinda gets a mixture of ones the size of between his eyes and smaller. I'm hoping he grows quickly so I can start feeding from another colony I have going where they are all almost adults already lol.
     
  5. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member

    Great! They really do take time to get used to everything and each dragon is like it's own person with a unique personality. Totally. I wouldn't worry about the greens too much though, just keep offering. Spaz is 5 months old now and just within the past month started eating his salads. Just remember that even once your guy does starting eating them til about 8 months its 70-80% protein and 30%-20% salad. Each dragon seems to have their own favorite foods too. Well except dandelion greens - they all love them and thankfully grow like a weed (hahaha wait they are a weed!) But try different colors of food with the greens. Like papaya, raw sweet potatoes and hibiscus flowers are really colorful options. I am sure someone has told you but here is a chart of stuff

    Nutrition Content

    its really helpful. Oh and lol since you have roaches? take a lid to a whipped cream container or something and put the scraps of stuff you feed your dragon on there you can help feed them too! Just remember to take it out at night (take it out throw whatever is left away!). I raise Dubia for my guys and its important to remember what the roaches eat - your beardie ultimately eat. So like today my beardies got dandelion, collard, mustard greens with red bell peppers, zucinni, raw sweet potato and papaya - my roaches got the skins and and odd little pieces of them all. Even the stems of the greens - just break them up and the tiny pieces that stick to the green stems..the roaches will demolish with great delight! It doesn't entirely feed them but it certainly helps!
     
  6. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, just to mention that spraying the dragon will do nothing to keep the animal hydrated unless it actually drinks the water (the same with bathing).
     
  7. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member


    Yes but normally they will try to lick the water from their mouth. It helps some as long as you don't go overboard with misting. lol
     
  8. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    Hmm. I'll try to dribble some on his nose next time then. He likes to stay in the back up on the fake plants, so it's hard to reach in there without burning myself on the bulb. Also I'm sure getting all up in his grill isn't helping with the stress lol. I might try to just spritz the plants he hangs on when he's somewhere else. He might try to lick it off them if I'm lucky.
     
  9. TigerIvy

    TigerIvy Elite Member

    that is how they normally drink in the wild is licking off the plants. But just leave him alone, talk to to him through his cage and give him a little time. couple weeks should be plenty
     
  10. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    They make both diameter bulbs (T5/T8). It's also unwise to state that 12" of working distance is fine...that's far too general for these bulbs, especially the T5 HO 12% bulbs. Different lengths of this bulb have different outputs--the longer the bulb the more UV it produces. If it were a 22" bulb 12-15" from the bulb's surface to the animal should be fine, especially towards either end of the bulb. However, if it were a longer bulb (34" and up) it would be advisable to mount it further away as they are capable of producing very high UV output. The type of reflector used also makes a difference. These bulbs should be treated more like MVBs than typical fluorescent UVB bulbs.
     
  11. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    Yeah mine is a 24" without a reflector, so I think the distance I have it at now should be fine. This is the one in particular that I got click
     
  12. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    That is a NO (normal output) T5 bulb, which should be mounted a lot closer than 24" from the animal (~12"), especially without a reflector (which I'd recommend). The way it's currently implemented may be OK for species that require very little UVB, but for a dragon it's definitely producing very little...too little, IMO.
     
  13. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    The distance from the bulb to the lowest point (the tile in one spot) is 13". when I said 24" I meant the length of the bulb.
     
  14. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    Ahh--understood :) Still, the bulb is producing significantly less UVB without a reflector--approximately half of that from a reflected bulb.
     
  15. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    When I first ordered it I didn't know a reflector was necessary. Do you think they sell them separately for the size/type that I bought that I could just attach to it?
     
  16. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    Hmmm...That really depends on the fixture you're using. Did you order the fixture through lightyourreptiles.com? If so, try contacting Todd to see if that's an option.

    I'd also like to add that I just measured a few of my bulbs, both 22" and 34" lengths (T5 HO 12%). Towards the center of the bulb, at it's peak output, the 22" gave me readings right around 140 uW/cm2 while the 34" gave me readings in the 200 uW/cm2 range, both of which at 13" away. These are bulbs that have been operational for several months, so they're well burnt in. New bulbs will provide higher numbers.
     
  17. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    No the fixture came with the critter condo. That's why I was sorta confused that you called the one I showed you a T5 since I was under the impression that T5 bulbs didn't work with T8 fixtures, and I don't think the fixture I have is T5. Would I still be able to fit the bulb in the T8 fixture, but it just wouldn't put out the same numbers as a T5, or would you just not be able to fit it in the fixture at all? If so I either have both a T5 fixture and tube, or both T8 fixture and tube, or just a T8 tube with a T5 fixture lol... I'm confusing myself now. :| I really wish I would've kept that box man.
     
  18. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    The link you provided was to the NO T5 12% bulb that Arcadia makes, but having said what you just said I would assume you have the T8 version. You can tell by measuring the diameter of the bulb...T8s are 1" in diameter while T5s are 5/8". It appears LYR.com has taken the T8 version off the site.
     
  19. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    Yeah I don't think the condoz come with the T5 fixtures, so I guess I got a T8 tube.

    Yeah I just measured it, definitely at least 1"
     
  20. Kasmut

    Kasmut Well-Known Member

    I just saw some shed going on on his legs, so this makes more sense to his skittishness. It's been about the same for the last two days. He comes up to the glass in the mornings and acts like he's starving when I put in his roaches and he eats about 7-10 then leaves the rest. Then I wait until 5:30 and try to feed him again but he acts really skittish and runs to his hide when I put in more roaches. I just fed him now and am going to go take the roaches out at 6:00, hopefully he'll have eaten some without me in the room. :/ I also have been spritzing his fake plants in the back that he hangs on. I'm trying not to stare at him all day like I was so I haven't seen him drinking, but I'm hoping he is lol.
     

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