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AFT Question, Possibly a Serious Problem

Discussion in 'African Fat-tailed Geckos' started by Seandeezy, May 26, 2009.

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  1. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    I've had my geckos for quite awhile, maybe a year now. When I first got them from the pet store, they were probably about 5 inches 4-5 inches long not including the tail, just from the butt to their nose. I feed them about 30 crickets a week, and I've been watching their tails; there hasn't been any growth.

    I'm pretty sure the female is pregnant due to her bulkiness and the egg shapes in her stomach, so I would assume she has an excuse as to why the fat isn't going to her tail.

    The male is who I'm concerned about. I know he eats, I've seen him eat, but his tail isn't growing any really. Is he not eating enough? Is he only eating a few and letting the female eat the rest since she is pregnant? I honestly have no idea what is going on with his tail.

    If anybody knows why their tails haven't gotten fatter, let me know.
     
  2. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    What is your set-up?
    Cage size, hot/cool side temps (day and night)
    humidity
    diet
    substrate
    etc
     
  3. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    [​IMG]

    I have them in a 20gal tank right now. During the day the tank under the light gets to be about 80-85+, sometimes on hot hot days, my room gets a little hotter and the tank may get a little hotter than 85. At night the tank reaches temps from 70-75+, and as I said before, if it's a hot night, it may get a little hotter than that. I feed them crickets weekly. I've tried to feed them mealworms and what not, but the male is very picky and only eats crickets; the female will eat whatever, she doesn't care. Due to the male being picky, I stick to crickets. As for substrate, I'm using Calcium sand; I recently switched to it, before I was using these woodchips I bought from a reptile store.
    Humidity, I have no ideaa, I read up the other day about humidity, and it said to not mist the cage which I had been told earlier to do. It told me to create a humidhide, which I've done as you can see. I don't have a humidity meter, I should probably go pick up one of those haha.

    I used to have 2 hiding places, but since my female is pregnant, I had to take the 2nd out and put in the humidhide so she could lay her eggs. The cage looks a little plain now.

    I hope this helped you out. :)
     
  4. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    GET RID OF THE CALCI-SAND ASAP!!!!!!
    It can potentially kill your gecko's
     
  5. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    What should I use instead of the calci-sand? :(
     
  6. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    Use a cage-carpet, linoleum, paper-towels, newspaper...anything NOT loose! Also, you should separate your geckos, and track to see if each is eating/pooping. It is possible that he is impacted from eating the sand. Separating them will also give the female a break if she is indeed pregnant.
     
  7. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    Do you have an under tank heater? They NEED belly heat to digest...
     
  8. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    No I don't have an under-tank heater, if you're saying that is something I need in order to help them out, I'm down to go run up to the store and get it. I just want them to live in the best environment possible, and have these babies hatch.

    Instead of using Calci-Sand you want me to use cage carpet? I thought Calci-Sand if eaten by the reptiles would dissolve in their bellies. Is that not true?
     
  9. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    It will and that's the problem. It's made of calcium carbonate which is what Tums and Rolaides are made of to help control stomach acids in humans. Herps NEED those stomach acids to digest food and if the sand stops this they can't digest their foods and that is a bad thing;)
     
  10. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    And, you don't HAVE to have a UTH but you do need someway to get them belly heat, if you have a piece of slate that sits under the heat light and is the proper temp that's ok. But, an UTH is the best and easiest way to give them belly heat.(sorry, I forgot to put this in the other post:eek:)
     
  11. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    So all the Calci-Sand does is HELP prevent impacting right?

    So I need to get some cage carpet, an under-tank heater, and separate the geckos to see if any are impacted?
     
  12. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    I just went to the store and bought some cage carpet, I just found out my cage is bigger than 20gal, if I remember correctly, its like 45gal haha. So I guess I gotta buy more of it now haha.
     
  13. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    No, Calci-sand CAUSES impacton because the food doesn't get digested
     
  14. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    Calcium sand CAUSES impactions. I am glad that you got the cage-carpet. :) Also, while you CAN use a slate tile under the light for belly heat, it is difficult to get it to the right temps. An under tank heater is the best way to provide the correct heat that they need for digestion.
    I would definietly suggest separating them as soon as possible. This will allow you to monitor individual pooping and eating. When they are both housed together, unless you SEE them poop or eat you can't be sure which on did it. Also, with only one female for your male, it can be stressful on the female, as she will get ALL of the attention if you know what I mean. ;) Breeding shortens their life-span, and constant breeding is even more detrimental.
    If you have two separate enclosures, you can separate them when you need to, and put them together to breed. You can divide your current enclosure into 2, but you have to be SURE that you have the correct temp gradients on each side.

    As for the eggs, I would suggest getting this stuff called Super-Hatch. It is supposed to be better than Hatch-Rite or other vermiculate. You should do research on building or buying an incubator, humidity and temp levels, etc.
    I am glad that you care about your geckos and want to give them the best of care. :)
    P.S. sorry about my short earlier replies - I was in class earlier (and I am at work now haha).
     
  15. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

  16. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    Thank you guys so much. I bought the right cage carpet for my big tank, and I got a 10gal tank from my friend, which I bought some carpeting for that. I went to petco and got a little under-tank heater, so I should be set for that. I'm just going to move the male to the 10gal for now like you guys said so she can go ahead and do her business.

    My dad has an incubator from when he bred his iguanas; I can use that yes? We were just going to fill it with Perlite, but will I have a better chance at success with that hatch stuff you talked about?
     
  17. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    The super hatch "sounds" good but I'd be concerned about it being so hard(it being ceramic pieces). Personally I'd let the more experienced try the new stuff out for a while before I used it and would stick with the stuff that is proven(I think it's the vermiculate is what most people use)
     
  18. Seandeezy

    Seandeezy Elite Member

    Alright, so now that I'm getting my cages set up the right way, on my bigger tank, the one I have a picture of, where should I place the heating pad? It's not very big, I could put it on the left where the heat light is, middle, or right where there is no heat, but thats where the water is placed.
    So should I just stick it in the middle under the humidhide?
     
  19. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    It should go on the same side as the heat light. You want a temperature gradient for them to thermo-regulate themselves
    And your humid hide should be on the warm side also (or at least more on the warm side than the cool side)
     
  20. TitoAndKatt

    TitoAndKatt Elite Member

    Actually Shwk, the Superhatch has been around for a while now, it is just sold ONLY by Repashy. Everyone who has used it, professionals and newbies, has had much better luck with it than with perlite or superhatch. But, personal preference. As for the heat pad, yes under the lights, and the wet hide needs to be on top of it. I am so glad to hear that you are taking our advice: so many people ask for advice, and then argue against what people say. (Not that I can say I am totally innocent in that regard, I do get defensive sometimes, esp when tired and emotional). Anyways, you obviously love your geckos and want the best for them, that is wonderful! :) Keep us updated.
     
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