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Active Scorpion Species?

Discussion in 'Arachnids General' started by Jkbauer13, Jun 27, 2012.

  1. Jkbauer13

    Jkbauer13 Elite Member

    Hey guys I've been contemplating getting a scorpion recently because of free food from my dubia colony and with an upcoming reptile show I figured it might be a good time to look around. I've been asking around on some scorpion forums and all people tell me is to get a emperor since it's my first one....well guess what.....I don't want an emperor.

    I'm really looking for a species that is generally known as active, even aggressive, for all I care it can be the meanest sob on earth. I don't plan on handling it very much so if it's hot it really doesn't bother me (not fatal, or life threatening thought). Also, being big enough to feed off dubias is a must. Bigger the better, cool color is a plus but unnecessary.

    Any suggestions?
  2. SpidaFly

    SpidaFly Elite Member

  3. Jkbauer13

    Jkbauer13 Elite Member

    haha ya it's old but thanks! I will look into them :)
  4. uromastyx

    uromastyx Well-Known Member

    Tailless Whip Scorpions are super interesting and very interesting. They're non-venemous and fairly active. It's the only scorpion I've ever not been worried about holding. I do not have one but I am considering it once I deal with the current issues I'm having with my beardies.

    This is a caresheet.

    Whip Scorpion Care sheet
    Uropygid (Whip Scorpion) Care Sheet


    Uropygids, or Whip Scorpions are members of the class Arachnida. They should now be formally classified as “Thelyphonids” as the name Uropygid was adopted after the initial naming. However, most sources still refer to them as Uropygids, of the order Uropygi. At present there are around 100 species in 15 genera, with all occurring in tropical or semi-tropical habitats.

    The most common species offered for sale are of the genus Mastigoproctus, but others are becoming more often seen for sale in the UK.


    Whip scorpions are nocturnal animals, and as such provisions should be made so that the enclosure experiences day and night cycles without too much interruption.

    They have a tendency to wander during the night, so they require a larger tank than an equivalent sized tarantula. For the two 3cm juveniles I have, I house them in a 24” x 12” x 12” enclosure with no problems. This enclosure is slightly larger again as there is 2 individuals inhabiting it (see notes below).

    Deep substrate is needed as Whip scorpions tend to construct burrows, and will often take prey back to such areas to be consumed in safety. A substrate of depth 5-6” can be used and safely heated with a heat mat, provided it does not cover the entire tank.

    In my enclosure, I use a mix of sphagnum moss (sieved to reduce fragment size) mixed with coir block (about 50:50). This allows for easy retention of humidity levels, and is easy to burrow into. Hides should be provided – in this case, cork hides were used, under which the whip scorpions constructed their burrows.

    A shallow drinking dish can be provided, but I myself have never seen them drink. They have a reputation for being able to drown themselves, so gravel in the dish is a good idea.


    Whip scorpions are nocturnal predators, so any invertebrate feeder insect smaller than the whip scorpion should be accepted. Some keeps report success with small crickets, hatchling locusts and other small invertebrates. I am currently trying small Antrenous beetle larvae, but it is too early to report any success.

    As my enclosure is a communal set-up, I am providing ample food items to hopefully prevent any hostility. Therefore, I cannot advise on individual feeding – a reasonable estimate would be to feed once a week on a few feeder insects.

    Larger species, such as Mastigoproctus gigantus have been reported to feed on small vertebrates. However, for the majority of whip scorpions, vertebrate prey is likely to be too large.


    I have never observed this myself. I imagine it is similar to tailless whip scorpion and scorpion mating styles.

    Wikipedia has a translation of the original paper by Schmidt, 1993:

    “Males secrete a sperm sac, which is transferred to the female. Up to 35 eggs are laid in a burrow, within a mucous membrane that preserves moisture. Mothers stay with the eggs and do not eat. The white young that hatch from the eggs climb onto their mother's back and attach themselves there with special suckers. After the first molt they look like miniature whip scorpions, and leave the burrow; the mother dies soon after. The young grow slowly, going through three molts in about three years before reaching adulthood. They live for up to another four years”


    Whip scorpions have a reputation for being docile, yet skittish. My own pair are very nervous, but seem fine to handle. They are very fast, and if harassed too much will shoot a very strong smelling acetic acid spray in your direction – obviously not great if it gets into your eyes.

    My own limited experience of handling them suggests that they are probably best not handled unless you are gentle and confident in your abilities. Although they do not possess any venom, I have heard reports that a nip from M.gigantus is very, very painful.

    Communal set-ups?

    At present I am trying a communal set-up with 2 whip scorpions. I am providing ample food and a larger tank to reduce the chance of hostility. It's too early to say much yet, but it appears that in juveniles at least, seem to tolerate each other in an enclosure.

    Care at a glance

    Large enclosure, deep substrate (5-6”)

    Numerous hides, may burrow

    70-90% humidity for tropical species.

    Less for semi arid US species (65%-75%)

    18-25C Temperature for most tropical species.

    Higher for US semi-arid species, but provide areas to cool. Side mounted heat mat/light more applicable here.
  5. Jkbauer13

    Jkbauer13 Elite Member

    A whip scorpion would pretty cool! I don't know anyone else who has one of those!

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