Read what I posted at the top of the page. The MINIMUM (smallest) your enclosure should be is 6x2x4. That's nearly double your plan.
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Read what I posted at the top of the page. The MINIMUM (smallest) your enclosure should be is 6x2x4. That's nearly double your plan.
just to let you know this is the basic idea i got my plans from
[his doesn't look to be any bigger than what i was going for but i will add another 6 inches or so all the way around giving me a total of 5.5X2X3.5http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxsJD..._order&list=UL
That sounds great.
Looks like they have a Mist King in there, very nice, not sure about the curtain on the inside of the enclosure or maybe its just my eyes and its on the outside.
no it is on the inside i assumed it was for climbing my wd has climbed straight up my shower curtain before also it may help with the humidity
By the looks of it you have the interior enclosure's base 6"+ off the floor including what looks like an additional 'wood' riser inside the enclosure. If that's the case, it would be a pretty good waste of space. Personally I'd frame the base out to 3-4" instead of 6" then cut a hole in the ply bottom large enough for the 'cat box' to fit down inside (the lip of the plastic bin should sit directly on the enclosure floor or a frame around the entire hole). Just ensure the cavity/compartment is framed and walled out to ensure the CWD cannot get under the enclosure floor when you have the bin removed for cleaning.Quote:
Originally Posted by rward18
[QUOTE=rward18;380909]alright here are the new plans for it any other suggestions let me know also what should i use on the inside i was reading and found a site that says to use using "contact" not exactly sure what they mean i just don't want the humidity to mess up the wood.
i have decided not to use the drain and sitting water i went with cat box instead also do you think i will need both che and a daytime solar light
If you`re going with the fluorescent tube at the top the length of the enclosure, depending on the ambient (air) temps and surface basking temp, you might need an extra heating bulb apart from the basking one. How`s the ambient temp in the room the tanks going in during the day and night (normally)?
I`ve used self adhesive floor tiles on the walls of my enclosure, and so far (12 months), not a single tile has peeled, and they are easy to clean, too. I`ve found they stick better to bare (plywood in my case), so instead of varnishing the main parts, you could do that (good quality tiles have stronger adhesive) excellent when you need relatively high humidity. Any other exposed wooden surfaces will need sealing...
@Vers.... your right that is probably a little excessive i'll cut it down a little it only needs to be a little higher than the top of the cat box i'm using and just like you said the lip of the box is going to sit on top and i'm going to close it off so he can't run under the whole enclosure while changing out water.....
@murrindindi..... Another heating one? i was planning to use a Ceramic heat emitter, a "Day time" light gives off heat and uvb, uvb florescent and my red infrared light you think i'm going to need more? as for the floor tile do you have these on all three walls and then your ceiling is sealed with a water based water resistance like an outdoor deck sealer?
So you will be using an MVB (Mercury Vapor Bulb) and a UVB fluorescent? You only really need one UVB source but regardless make sure you take extra care as to where the mister is placed--if any cool water touches that very hot MVB (or any other indoor rated bulb)...pop goes the weasel. That would be very, very bad.
If you opt for self adhesive tiles, make absolute sure the adhesive (and coating) is non-toxic--the same applies to wood sealant/polycrylic.
I think we may both be misunderstanding here? I thought you were going with a UVB tube (virtually no heat), then a basking bulb (for daytime heat), and either a CHE or infrared for the nighttime?Quote:
Originally Posted by rward18