Hi gang,

I have been searching for nutritional values of plants and veggies etc paying particular attention to Calcium and Phosphorus ratio's, but with the understanding that some plant matter, though in good ratio's, in not beneficial, or even dangerous because of Ca inhibitors within said plant matter.

The intention is / was to post it here once done....

Well, I doubt very much I could even come close to producing as comprehensive a discusion or list on the matter as one of the sites I found on the matter.

This site is a definite MUST READ - explains it ALL
with comprehensive lists on the good - the bad - and the downright ugly.

See ...
http://www.baskingspot.com/iguanas/i...nutrition.html
ensure you use the various links contained there-in

Bear in mind - this is for iguana, and though a uromastyx has similar needs, they are NOT the same.
Use the info in conjunction with Uromastyx care sheets and other available advice specific to Uro's


Regards
Lynx

Seems pretty good. I like the break down of the information.

I would like to clarify one thing, though. They recommend dried figs. I don't think ANY dried fruit is good to give an iguana OR a uromastyx. The drying of the fruit increases the sugar output and (obviously) severely decreases the water in the fruit. Iguanas are overwhelmingly hydrated by the water in their foods, and so are uros. Giving them anything with a lot of sugar and very little water is not a good idea. Figs may have something special in them that makes them okay to serve dried - but certainly you'd want to *really* limit this treat. Fresh fruit is a much better way around.

I'd also adjust the feeding percentages a little, but that may just be my opinion. Personally, I think a good 70-80% should be the leafy greens, 10-20% supplemental veggies, and 5% or less treat items, like fruits and grains. But then the percentages may depend on what you're actually feeding them and how often.

I like the explanation of the "Danger" foods a lot, though. I may bookmark it just for that section on Oxalic acid, cabbage and tannins.

Yikes. Multiple igs eating from the same dish? That's a recipe for disaster!

__________________
"Let's eat, Grandpa!"
"Let's eat Grandpa!"

Punctuation. It saves lives.

Well I don't know much about other lizards, including iguanas, but I know you don't give uro's fruit. I have never seen it recommended in any subject on the matter, not even as a treat. I quite agree with you as far as the sugars in dried fruit go - and definitely concur about not giving Uro's dried (or any other form) of fruit for that matter.

As I said, that info needs to be read in conjunction with recommendations for Uro's.

I too like those list, I have other available to me, but none contain the danger list. Yet in this danger list, Vetch is included, yet vetch forms part of the ok group for uro's - so that is one item I will certainly investigate further.

Another comment I can make is the Ca/P ratio for Savoy Cabbage....
and I quote...

"In 2000-01, investigations were carried out on the dependence between the tipburn appearance on Chinese cabbage (Brassica pekinensis) and the content of calcium and its distribution in leaves. The highest concentration of calcium (up to 4.4%) occurred in outside leaves while the lowest was found in leaves inside the head (up to 1.0%). The marginal part in every outside leaf contained more calcium than midrib of leaf. This dependence weakly appeared in leaves wrapping the head and was absent inside the head, where often the calcium concentration was higher in the midrib part of leaf than in the margin part. Distinct differences in the calcium content in leaves of four cultivars of F1 Chinese cabbage: 'Bilko', 'Parkin', 'Kasumi' and 'Yamiko' were not found. These cultivars differed clearly in the susceptibility to the tipburn incidence whose appearance depended also on the temperature stress."

Publisher: Polskie Towarzystwo Botaniczyne (Polish Botanical Society)

Savoy cabbage is of the Brassicaceae Family
species = Brassica oleracea sabauda - which also falls into the F1 catagory mentioned above

Thus the above holds true for savoy cabbage - as I have said elsewhere, the outer dark-green leaves of savoy cabbage and other chinese cabbage are very suitable for Uro's.

At some point I certainly will consolidate food advice from various sources into one comprehensive guide for Uro's.

Regards
Lynx

Yes that's definitely a good read. Not only tells you what to feed but why as well.

__________________
Mike
"Never worry about numbers. Help one person at a time, and always start with the person nearest you." - Mother Teresa

there is some good info in there however its all about iguana's. Yes Iguanas and uromastyx are both lizards but both eat different things. So of the items that were mentioned as good I wouldnt feed to my uromastyx at least as a staple food. As I said good info but can confuse a new person with a uro.

this is really a good link!
thanks!

Going back to the dried fig - it is high in calcium and it's a treat I feed occasionally...but only...and only after it has been soaked overnight in water. It still doesn't regain it's original state well, but it is loaded with water before being placed on top of the salad. Even after the fig has been rehydrated it's not all that supple. If fed to anything...it must be cut into small pieces.

__________________
Veronica
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i got to say I have fed my uro mango before. but I have stopped feeding any friut for about 3 months now. where would it be possible for a mali uro to eat fruit in the wild. now there are some african wild fruits and some of them are namedaizen, balanites, baobab, butterfruit, ebony, marula and tamarinddnt. but these all grow in the tropical part of africa not in the dry deserts. i dont know a ton about fruit and have never heard of any of these. But I do know I cant find them at my Wild oats store or anywere else. I just agree with a very well know breeder I spoke with recently and think friut is not for uros. also you must be carefull when feeding wet items to your uro. Fruit is generally sticky and if there mouths are not wiped clean after eating the sticky can turn into bacteria and can cause mouth rot. I believe if you feed a good staple diet of greens, seed, flowers then friut isnt needed.

I also talked to someone who is a very well know breeder and this person told me they have never feed fruit to there uros at any time. Now please dont come back with they dont get escarole or peas or lentils or finch seed in the wild so we shouldnt feed thos either.