Discussion in 'Water Dragons' started by ChineseWaterDragonFan, Jan 30, 2013.
Should i get a sheet of plexi-glass for the top? Should I lower the lights?
Ok, you need to take your dragon to the vet. From the picture, your dragon has mouthrot, which will definitely contribute to the lack of appetite and weight loss. This is not something that can be treated at this stage at home - the underlying condition will need to be identified so both that and the stomatitis can be treated.
Considering he's a pet store dragon, I would also take a fecal sample in to rule out parasites. These dragons are WC, and almost always riddled with parasites - these, too, can hinder appetite.
If you don't take your dragon to the vet to identify the cause, it really won't matter if you can force food on him or not - he'll likely continue to lose weight regardless.
Okay. So today I will pick up a sheet of plexi-glass, a digital hygrometer and digital thermometer with a probe. Should I be cutting around the plexi-glass where the lights will be? How to I ensure adequate oxygen if I have to cover the whole top with plexi? Should I be making holes in the glass?
How would you suggest I transport him when it's bitterly cold outside? -24 degrees celsius
i don't know what mouthrot is but it don't look right to me. i second the vet visit
hot water bottle towels in a tupperware container witll work
make sure the care is warmed up to
I'm in Canada as well, and have transported reptiles in extreme conditions too.
I have found a cooler, lined with a towel, and a couple heat packs wrapped in towels will keep your dragon toasty warm. The biggest concern is transporting him from the house to the car, and the car to the vet. Warm your vehicle up in advance, and the ride will be no problem. Ensure you take along a digital thermometer to keep the temps in check. I suggest taking along re-usable i.e. microwaveable heat packs, and the vet can warm them up for you before you leave. If you don't have re-usable packs, then be sure to take extra disposable heat packs, and always take more than you need in the event of car troubles or otherwise.
I`d like to ask if the discolouration around the lower jaw is from an injury or just particles of food? If an injury, I agree you need a vet visit.
Oral Inflammation (Mouth Rot) in Reptiles
Sometimes referred to as mouth rot, infectious stomatitis is a very common disorder that can affect pet lizards, snakes, and turtles. When a reptile is under stress, its immune system becomes weak and unable to keep the bacteria that are normally present in the mouth in check. The resulting infection leads to mouth rot.
Symptoms and Types
Signs of mouth rot can include:
Loss of appetite
Reddened oral tissues
Thick pus and/or dead tissue within the mouth
Drainage from the mouth and nose
If left untreated, infection can spread from the mouth into the rest of the digestive tract or into the lungs, causing pneumonia.
Improper temperature gradients or humidity levels within the terrarium can lead to a poorly functioning immune system and mouth rot. In some cases, an improper diet, or oral injuries that result from a reptile attempting to restrain live prey, rubbing against cage walls, or chewing on bedding material can also play a role.
Mouth rot is generally diagnosed by observing the reptile's clinical symptoms, conducting a thorough physical exam on the animal, and reading over its medical history.
Treatment for mouth rot usually includes a course of antibiotics and a cleaning of the reptile’s mouth with an antiseptic. Surgery to remove badly damaged oral tissues may be necessary in severe cases. Animals that are unable to eat and drink while they are recovering will need fluid therapy and nutritional support. Any husbandry oversights must also be addressed or the condition is likely to return.
A healthy diet, proper temperature gradients and humidity levels, and a clean environment are all essential to preventing mouth rot.
The smallest of spaces around the edge of the bulbs will allow enough air exchange.
I am handling him very little just to try and encourage him to eat as all other methods are unsuccessful. I am going to do my best to get him in to a vet really soon but for today I will go pick up the essentials to help increase humidity and heat. I think that is my first priority.
Thank you for you compliment on the set up. I am doing my best for him. I feel so bad for the poor little guy. It's my daughter's pet and I have to rehabilitate him. The pet store NEVER advised us that this would be an "Advanced" lizard to care for. Lesson Learned.
Thank you so much for your help. I have to leave the house now. I will be back later. Thank you again.
dont worry about the petstore we got ours at petco and was informed the same conditions for a beardie is ideal and that cant be more wrong
I am sorry but at this point the cage conditions shouldn't be your priority. Yes thy are important but wih the state your CWD is in a vet visit is needed NOW! The sooner you get antibiotics in the easier it will be to treat which means less cost for you. the more advanced it gets the more you will be at the vet. I had a little CWD with advanced infections and it took months of vet visits every week to even get her halfway healthy.
My first water dragon ended up being a rescue that came from Petsmart. After months of vet trips and bills, she ended up passing away from parasites and infections (from mouthrot) that had wreaked havoc on her little body and we couldn't do anything about it because she had stopped eating (likely due to the parasites/infection) and we couldn't treat without a fecal.
In the early months, they are very sensitive and susceptible to illness. This is why vet treatment and proper husbandry is imperative to their health. Your priority should be to make a vet appointment now, and work on the husbandry in between now and your vet appointment.
You have to understand...if he's sick, he will NOT eat, no matter how much you leave him alone, or how much he's starving, or even if his conditions are perfect. Proper husbandry and minimal stress is important for recovery and long-term health, but for the immediate future, he should be examined by a vet as even fixing his conditions won't fix him.
Pet stores are terrible for providing advice on this species. My rescue came from an 8 year old kid, whose mom bought it for him but had neither the time nor inclination to care for it herself when he inevitably got bored of it. The pet store had no business selling a species this advanced to anyone that young. Ironically, if you review their caresheet (which they fail to discuss in store), it specifically states that the lizard should not go to anyone under 14 years of age.
14?? really?? i would say no one with out a job i am spending 21.95 on crickets for 3 weeks and about another 10-15 on mealworms for a month. oh and found out this weekend Leo loves baby food apple suace
that don't include vet bills and the enclosures they need. they are like iguanas that people buy for their child not knowing how big they get and what it cost to take care of them
I just want to say my dragon is making a recovery, that the vet said would be the envy of herpetologists(im not trying to brag, just happy) she now is eating more and her brown color is slowly fading and she is now jumping and running around all the time!
awesome what the vet say was wrong?
Have your vet do a fecal sample. In my opinion, it sounds like parasites of some form.
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