Discussion in 'Water Dragons' started by ChineseWaterDragonFan, Jan 30, 2013.
oh yeah and she also said that petsmart sells the chinese water dragons with poor husbandry
Poor is an understatement
thank you so much for all of you help, and i hope my lizard makes it!
First of all, get prepared to get a way bigger tank. Second, try to feed it something different other than mealworms. It might be bored.
I ran into a similar situation. Environmental conditions the same as mentioned above but I'm using sterile topsoil and I have a tank 1.5' x 2ft x 4ft. I put wet towels on top of the cage lid to help lock in the humidity and I mist about a litre of water a day. My water dragon has been continuously losing weight and I cannot seem to get it to open its mouth. I have tried offering him food while in and out of his cage. I have offered him veggies, crickets, meal worms and wax worms. He looks at it momentarily and then turns away. I soak him in warm water with calcium (trying to get any amount of calcium in him - Not sure if this will work) in the water to help him shed skin, and he is now half the weight he was when I brought him home. How do I get him to open his mouth? I too have not had my water dragon very long, about the same size as mentioned above. It was suggested that I bath him in unflavoured infant pedialite to help him get elecrolytes and vitamins. Will this help?
I cannot see how my lizard could be tired of his food as I have been switching it up regularly and he just does not eat anything. I'm very concerned he won't make it. This is my second water dragon from PetSmart. They replaced the first one for half price. I don't want to lose hope but it's becoming more and more discouraging. I live out of town and it is very cold outside so I am nervous to take him out of the house.
Hi, I take it the tank has a screen lid, if so you will never be able to stabilise either temps or humidity.
Can you give the temp/humidity range and tell me what type of thermometer/hygrometer you use to measure them? Thanks!
also how long have you had him/her?
It does have a screen lid that I keep covered with damp towels. I am going to pick up a hydrometer today. I have two thermometers in the tank one on the basking area (~80 degrees) and one on the cooler side of the tank (~70 degrees) where his large water dish is. I usually keep both red and basking light running during the day and just the red one at night. His UVB light is on the cool side of the tank. I am concerned that humidity may be the culprit as the winters get very dry. Could this be a major factor as to why I can't get him to open his mouth? Should I be situating his lights differently?
I've had him about a month.
In Canada we have to keep in-house humidity lower as it can cause problems with frost build up. I'm wondering if I should be selling him and getting a desert dragon instead. Not sure water dragons are good as pets here in Winnipeg.
He does express interest at times when the food is moving but he just will not take it and he will not open his mouth to try and at least get some repti-boost inside of him.
you don't need the humidity in the house high just the enclosure. no getting rid of him/she is not the answer they are cool once you make it past the learning curve. my basking is 86 cool side 78-79 it verys. now eating well dragons are picky to say the least once temps and humidity are taken care of eating follows or it did in my case
do you have any pics of the little guy?
He is too young to know what gender Yoshi is.
I took a few today. I was going to go into Winnipeg Reptile to show them pics but they are not open on Tuesdays and I am very concerned.
need to get the temps right then worry about him/her eating without the right temps it wont do any good if it does eat. humidity is not a big concern at the moment but will be shortly. can you post pictures?
I'm attempting to upload the photos now
Hi again, I`ll guess that the thermometers are analogue, which means they could be as much as 15%+ out, so you/we have no idea what the actual temps are. Neither do you know what the humidity range is because you haven`t got a digiital hygrometer. You also need a digital thermometer with a probe to check the surface temp at the basking site which should be approx 32c (90f), and the probe must actually touch the surface of whatever the lizard basks on. The coolest ambient (air) temp should be between approx 24 to 27c (75 to 80f), no other temp matters.
You need to fit something solid over the mesh top, either plywood (sealed with several coats of water based varnish), or plexiglass. Both humidity and temps have a direct effect on appetite and health and are no doubt the reason the animal doesn`t want to eat (it would be unable to digest the food), or behave normally.
EDIT: O.k, I see the photo, and the main problems are as I described. The solid top would have holes cut out for the heat/light bulbs, they must be very tight fitting otherwise you`ll lose humidity and some heat. The basking (heat) bulb should be close to the UVB bulb so the lizard gets the benefit of both at the same time. I actually quite like the way you`ve set the inside up, lots of hiding places and climbing objects, so it`s the temps and humidity that are the problems. They are quite simple to fix!
Why are you trying to get the lizard to open it`s mouth, if it`s to force feed that`s always a very last resort, in fact you shouldn`t be handling at all at this time.
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