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Taking Care Of A Crippled Beardy?

Discussion in 'Bearded Dragons' started by DFlyLove, Jul 23, 2017.

  1. DFlyLove

    DFlyLove New Member

    I fell in love with a beardy at a local shop and placed him on hold. He was attacked by his previous owners dog, who instead of keeping him, returned him. He is missing his entire tail, his left front foot and had a gash to the face so the vet removed his eye after it got infected. He also has some trouble eating. Would taking care of him be really different than a normal beardy? What should I expect?
    I currently have 2 tanks he can go in a 20 gallon which is currently home to my 2 baby cornsnakes and a 120 gallon aquarium which won't hold water. Would I be able to divide the 120 in half and keep the cornsnakes on one side and him on the other and at the same time keep my specs on target?
    I want to pick him up as soon as possible and I don't feel prepared. Sorry for all the questions.
     
  2. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, what trouble does the dragon have eating? A 20 gallon fishtank is much too small, it will be difficult to achieve a suitable temp and humidity gradient. I think it might be possible to divide the larger tank, I would try using a piece of 3/4 plywood but it will need to be a very tight fit so the conditions in each side can be adjusted to suit the occupiers. I would also mention that you will need to fit a solid top to stabilise the internal conditions.
     
  3. DFlyLove

    DFlyLove New Member

    It is almost like he doesn't have any strength in bottom jaw. He can't eat anything to hard and seems to have trouble with leafy greens. When he is asleep or resting his mouth lolls open.

    My dad is a welder I was gonna use him to make the divider and lids. Would 2 pieces sheet stainless steel with insulation between work?
     
  4. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    If you know the dragon can definitely eat even with some difficulty it`s worth trying to help, although it would be possible to force feed via syringe that will very stressful, more especially if it`s for an extended period.
    The easiest material to use for the top and divider is 3/4 inch thick plywood. Can you give the tank measurements in cm or inches (length, width and height in that order) and show a couple of photos of it?
     
  5. DFlyLove

    DFlyLove New Member

    He seems to have an appetite. Can I puree some of the harder vegetables for him or would he not eat them that way?

    It's 72inL×18inW×22inH and it is an Aqueon.
     
  6. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member


    At only 18 inches wide it wouldn`t be enough for a dragon with a full tail, but but in this case it should work. I would give the lizard more of the space. Yes you can puree some of the food but again it will be stressful if force feeding, although he may eat voluntarily which would be excellent. Can you get a few photos of the animal?
     
  7. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Do you know what temps and humidity you`ll need and the type of heating/lighting?
     
  8. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    I purée food sometimes for my chuckwalla. He seems to like it very much, but that's him. It allows me to get a good mixture of different veggie selection in a ratio I prefer. Perhaps it's something you can try before bringing it home. If your able and willing to properly care for it (which you seem to be), you might be the best thing for him/her. This site and ample questions will get you setup exceptionally well.
     
  9. DFlyLove

    DFlyLove New Member

    I got his tank set up and I think I should be ready to pick him up tomorrow.
    His side of the tank is 45in×18in. His basking side is at 106°F and his cool side at 86°. At night the lowest I seen it get down to is 72°. The humidity is running about 33%. I layedd Terra cotta tiles down un the base and then covered them with coconut husks which was suggested by a friend. He has a little cave and a corner hammock I found at Petsmart because I thought it was cute. Am I forgetting anything?
    My corn snakes seem to be liking their taller home and their specs have been staying stable as well.
     
  10. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member


    The "cool side" is much too warm, you only need it to be around 21 to 24c (72 to 75f) during the day, nighttime I personally would not go below approx. 19c (68f). The humidity should range between approx. 30 to 50+ (contrary to popular opinion) which usually advises no higher than 30%. In some parts of their natural range the humidity can be over 60% at times, the refuges they choose have a higher humidity which many keepers do not take into account.
    The hammock is useless, please remove it!
    A particulate substrate is perfectly acceptable, a chemical free soil and playsand mix (approx 50/50%) which should be firmly tamped down and very slightly moist, that will allow the dragon to dig/burrow which is natural behaviour.
     
  11. MyImmortalWolf

    MyImmortalWolf Elite Member

    Waxworms, silkworms, and hornworms (also called goliath worms) all have very soft bodies, and the latter two are extremely good for beardies. Waxworms are high in fat and should really only be a treat. Might be worth trying him on them, especially the smaller sizes where if he has trouble chewing it, it's not as much of a problem. Black soldier fly larvae and butterworms might be worth a try as well. LLLReptile and Rainbow Mealworms should carry wax, horn, black soldier, and butter, and you can get silkworms and silkworm eggs from Mulberry Farms as well as a couple other places.
     

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