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Striking Fear

Discussion in 'Pythons *General*' started by leslielenee, Jul 23, 2008.

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  1. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    My Savu Python had been very docile and in fact rather clingy to tell the truth. I handle her EVERY day. Just today she struck at me. Seven times before I could get her hide back into her cage calmly. She continued to strike at the glass once the hide was removed (I remove her hide thirty minutes before a feeding). She ate but then continued to strike the glass. Now I am Scared. Whose snake is this? What has happened?
     
  2. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    I don't know much about Savus but a friend of mine's husband had a pair of them. When they were younger they were okay but they did turn into strikers and biters, not sure why.

    Hopefully someone else can help with the situation as that was the only experience I've ever had with that type of snake.

    I'm sure someone is going to ask for the run down on your snake such as the enclosure size, temps, humidity, etc.

    Has anything changed in her enclosure or in the room she is kept in that would have made her act differently?
     
  3. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    Yes, as a matter of fact.
    She had shed the day before.
    I changed her hide from a translucent to opaque.
    It was two days past feeding time but it doesn't change the fear I have towards her unexpected behavior.
    I originally doubted that it was the hunger strike since it was only two days past regular feeding. Besides it did NOT seem like a hunger strike to me it really seemed like a come closer because I hate everything and I will bite your head off strike.
    I would still say she should enjoy the dark box better since it lets out more humidity than than the translucent one did. They only like about 50-70% humidity. Her temps were rather high before the change of hide but they evened up to correct 85 after.
    This hide is better FOR her whether she likes it or not. I sure hope she gets over her spoiled little attitude. (and actually, I hope that is what it is).
    Thank you for the walk through.
     
  4. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    Maybe just try giving her a week of hands off to see if that has anything to do with it, perhaps she was startled by the introduction of a new hide and needs to adjust.

    Is she in a high traffic area like a living room or something where maybe a person or something out the window could have spooked her?
     
  5. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    No, She is in the third room. I hold my weight bench and the baby garters. She is in the catch all, so no kids allowed. Here are a few pics of environment.
    I'm sure 55 is too big for her but my forty is inhabited
    [​IMG]
    And this is her.
    [​IMG]
    She is a little under a year now.
     
  6. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    She may feel too exposed in such a large enclosure while she is still young. You could try adding some more hides and some more foliage for her and see if that helps. It looks pretty bare and most herps feel secure when they have things to hide in/under/behind.

    Try adding more stuff for her so it's not so bare, let her adjust to that for about a week or so, then see how she is. She may get stressed with you adding new things into her cage but if you let her get used to the new stuff she may start feeling more comfortable when she finds she will have other things to hide her so it doesn't seem so open to her. Plus adding more things won't make it seem so huge. I'm she will probably come to love all the space once settled.

    Good luck! :)
     
  7. fire2225ems

    fire2225ems Subscribed User Premium Member

    What is the box lookin thing that also looks like it is plugged in?
     
  8. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    The box is just a conair clipper box with moss substrate in it. I use it for a moist hide as it helps create humidity when the heat pad is under it. I try to keep the important wires up and away from Spaz (the rabbit). That is probably what you see. No plug in herp boxes, sorry (though that would probably be kind of cool)
    Do you prefer actual plants or pretend? I asked the pet store (they think I am hoity toity and spoiled) If I can put live plants in the habitat with her and they seem to think that I am begging for infections and vet visits. I think that the more digestable things in her enclosure are the better for her. But they insist on the tupperware hide and fake plants.
    As it is obvious, I refused fake plants...What is your take?
    Ooh. Ooh. I still have the top soil and peace plants. I figure that it's better to ask you anyway because along with the above advice they told me that Bishop was a female and Delta was a male... LMAO!!! AFTER a probing!!! What!!!
     
  9. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    I actually prefer to use fake plants for the reason that you can get them cheap, they come in wide varieties and they are easy to clean if (or when) your snake decides to poo on them. My snakes have had fake plants in their enclosures since they were little and they don't seem to care that they're not real. They just like to climb all over them and when they poo on one, I just take it out, stick clean ones in and go clean the dirty ones.

    Real may look nicer but you do run the risk of bringing little buggies in. Plus not all plants may stand up to the weight of your snake as she ages and gets bigger. That could result in many busted up plants. Snakes can be little bulldozers too and what you so carefully try to put together as nice looking for you, they'll just cruise right over it anyway! lol. :)
     
  10. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    [​IMG]
    The change happened while she sat and watched. Not the least bit nervous about it either. She came out the hide while we were speading the mulch. We had to fight not to cover her up while she rooted through it and gazed at us. It was only then that I discovered that she is only 6 inches shy of the entire length of the enclosure. I think that would be comfortable for me...;)
     
  11. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    That's starting to look much better. :) How many hides do you have in the tank? You should at least have one on the warm end and one on the cool end. This way, she isn't forced to pick the temperature she wants over security. If she has more than one, she can pick any hide she wants on either end of the enclosure and still feel secure.
     
  12. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    I have, since the change, found her in four different really good hides. The conair box is her moist hot hide. She also likes the rock on the far end, right behind her water dish, and the three little plants beside her moist hot hide.:p
    I also noticed her doing something that I have never witnessed a snake doing. She will sit in the mulch with just her head sticking up. I laughed, showed everyone, and watched her for an hour. At 1 in the morning it dawned on me that she might have been hunting. So I got up to check and she had already retired fro sleep. Shucks. I would much rather feed a snake by its schedule than by the calender's. Do you think that she might do it again before feeding day?
     
  13. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    It's hard to feed a snake by its schedule because sometimes they can go for weeks without eating. And when you feed by the calender schedule you kind of are feeding by the snake's schedule. They'll usually eat every week, but some go every two weeks. So you just offer the next week. My boa will go off of food anywhere from 4 to 6 months over the winter. I offer food and if he doesn't take it, wait longer then try again. If he doesn't I know he will eventually so the calender schedule and a snake's feeding schedule do kind of tie in together.
     
  14. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    One thing that caught my attention. You say you are using a box for a humid hide?
    If it is cardboard it will mold and be a very unhealthy situation.
    Also are you feeding your snake in the enclosure?
     
  15. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    Yes I do. I used to take her box out 30 minutes before a feeding to simulate the traveling/hunting. Now since I buried the (plastic) box, I uncover it, handle her for a bit then put her back in the enclosure away from the box, I then feed her. I noticed that it is then she is more happy to snap.
    I really hope the whole cage rage incident was a mixture of the box change, the recent shed, and the two days late on the feeding (which turned out to be a whole week *I'll explain*).
    She still hasn't passed stool yet since the pet store. I fed her yesterday (only four days past the striking/feeding incident) two hoppers and she was looking for the third. I'll move her up to two adult mice and hopefully that will last her at least five days. I'll keep moving her up until I get a poop that makes me happy.:D
     
  16. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I would suggest feeding in another container. That way you do not have to worry about the substrate being ingested.
    And it also will not imprint in the snake's mind that if the tank is opened food is coming!
     
  17. DarkMagician207

    DarkMagician207 Elite Member

    That definitely could be a problem. If you are feeding her in her enclosure she is most likely starting to associate your hand coming in with her getting food. I'd also suggest feeding her in a different bin, especially since she is already starting to snap at you. And also as Merlin said, using a separate feeding bin eliminates the chance for ingesting substrate.
     
  18. kcftlaud08

    kcftlaud08 Elite Member

    It looks very nice and habitable. I may be making up new words again, don't mind me. :) I would let her settle for a day or so and then check the attitude. You know, at the end of it all, she may just have been having a bad day. Heck, we all have them.
     
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