This Disappears When Logged In

Shedding is taking very very long time

Discussion in 'Green Tree Pythons' started by 13thWitness, Nov 11, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    i need help.

    My green tree python has been trying to shed for almost 2-3 weeks now.

    Pieces are coming off here and there, but certainly not in one whole shot.


    Could someone help me resolve this issue?

    Thanks a bunch!

    t.



    p.s
    i can attach images of enclosure or anything else if needed.
     
  2. schlegelbagel

    schlegelbagel Frog Lover Premium Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    what is your humidity?
     
  3. Moshpitrockchick

    Moshpitrockchick Subscribed User Premium Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    Sounds like it is probably a humidity problem, try bumping the humidity.

    If you can handle him you might try giving him a warm soak in the tub and then letting him run through a towel to remove some stuck shed.
     
  4. barnkat

    barnkat Elite Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    I agree with increasing the humidity some, and the soak if you can handle him/her. In with the soak put a capful or so of mineral oil. It will help with the shed and make the skin feel soft, not itchy for the python. I finally got a friend to give it a try, as her ball python has always shed badly due to past health issues. She tried it this last shed, as he was not shedding other than the last 2/3rds of his body and he was miserable for weeks. She gave him a mineral oil bath, and he shed out completely almost immediately after a 20 minute soak, even his eyecaps which almost never shed without trouble, and his itching problems quit immediately and she loved the feel of his skin. Make sure the water is fairly warm. Good luck with the shed!
     
  5. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    What sort of set up do you have for your GTP? temps/humidity/substrate
    Pictures would be great.
    Is it a new animal or have you had him for a while? Is this his first bad shed?
    The advice given above will help with this shed, but it is important to find out why he's shedding so badly in the first place. It is difficult to tell when a chondro is "blue". If he has been stressed at all during the shed cycle, this could result in bad sheds. He could have mites or other parasites. Have you had his stool checked?
    If you don't have it already, you should get Greg Maxwell's book: "The More Complete Chondro".
    Here is an excerpt from one of his caresheets re: shedding problems:

    "Keep humidity high throughout the shed cycle. Keeping records can be a great help in anticipating shedding intervals and timing. Really boost humidity the day or two before the shed is expected, after the colors and eyes clear up from the opaque period.

    To remove a dry shed from a baby GTP, place the animal in a deli cup with a few small air holes in it. Place a folded, soaking wet paper towel in the bottom of the cup, along with just enough water to wet the bottom of the cup. Use caution- babies can drown easily in too much water. Place the cup with the snake inside and the lid on in a warm place. Depending on how dry the shed is, it may take from several hours up to a couple of days for it to soften and come off.

    The best way to loosen and remove a dried shed from an adult is to set up a "wet box" for the animal. Use a medium sized plastic tub, a three gallon size works well. Place a soaking wet terrycloth bath towel saturated with warm water in the bottom of the tub. Place the chondro under the towel. Allow a small amount of water in the bottom of the tub, perhaps 1/8 inch, not more. It may take from several hours to several days for the shed to come off, depending on how dry the shed was to begin with. The snake will usually rub off the shed crawling through the wet towel, so keeping the animal covered with it helps. In bad cases you will need to carefully remove the shed manually. Do not try to remove retained eye caps. This is dangerous, and they will come off with the next shed and with no harm done.

    Do not handle or stress a chondro that is in a pre-shed condition. This alone can cause a bad shed even if the humidity is sufficient."
    Also check out his website: Welcome to Fine Green Tree Pythons
    Good luck. :)
     
  6. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    here is a complete look at my setup.

    i need to fix this guy up!

    DSC05306.jpg

    DSC05308.jpg

    DSC05309.jpg

    DSC05311.jpg

    DSC05312.jpg

    DSC05313.jpg

    DSC05314.jpg

    DSC05315.jpg
     
  7. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    Re: Shedding is taking very very long time****

    DSC05316.jpg

    DSC05317.jpg

    DSC05318.jpg
     
  8. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    How high is your humidity? It looks extremely wet in there. How are you heating the box? They don't need to be constantly wet. Just a daily misting with a spray bottle will be fine. Maybe two mistings when he is in shed. You could try putting a live potted plant in there. That raises the humidity, looks nice and gives the little guy a bit extra hiding opportunities.
    Also the daytime temperature on the warm side of our terrariums is usually 86F(30C), so yours is a bit low, if that's a day temp. A lot of people think chondros should be kept in high square terrariums, we keep ours in rectangular long terrariums. That way we have a wider range of temperature choices: a warm and a cool side with perches at different heights.

    Cool, your chondro is starting his color change! :) Keep taking pics of him, the change is great to have documented!
     
  9. what i did to help my python shed that came straight from the breeder's mouth was to try to soak him in semi warm water or just wet a sponge and lightly brush his body from head to tail...on the daily basis to help with the humidity. my python shadow loves the brushing of the sponge but hates the soaking in the bath tub.
     
  10. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    We have a breakthrough!!!

    success!!

    after no more than 24 hours in the newly created rubbermaid tub here is the result in the morning.

    a full fresh shed.

    i've had this snake since september and this is the first time i've ever seen him shed fully. i can't tell you how happy i was when i saw this..


    in the past i tried soaking him plenty of times in the sink with barely warm water. this isnt very easy. the snake does not like to stay and is always trying to climb out the sink.



    View attachment 3351

    View attachment 3352

    View attachment 3353

    View attachment 3354

    View attachment 3355

    View attachment 3356

    View attachment 3357
     
  11. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

  12. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    Fantastic! Congratulations. :)
    (Looks like he left you a "present" in the water bowl too!)
     
  13. fire2225ems

    fire2225ems Subscribed User Premium Member

    great news!
     
  14. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    here is the latest,


    i must say first, thank you all for your kindness and helpfulness.

    i've attached some new images.
    basically had some concerns regarding the heat.

    i have (2) heat pads underneath him.


    let me explain.

    first i started with only the small heat wave desert pad under the right 1/3 side of the tub. then realized tempertaure never really climbed above 80-82.

    i then added the second larger heat pad underneath everything in an attempt to raise the internal temp.

    after the larger pad failed to get hot i placed the ceramic red night bulb for heat.


    this now def gets the tank hot!

    like high 80's - low 90's.

    when it gets too hot i slide the tub farther or closer to the bulb depending on heat.

    tonight when i got home , i found the larger heat pad to be working.

    now i have 2 heat pads and a light for the little guy.

    is this too much heat?


    i figured i keep the bulb on a 12/12 hr timer.

    i welcome any and all criticism.


    tim.




    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. kenman1963

    kenman1963 Moderator

    Fantastic looking GTP.
     
  16. fire2225ems

    fire2225ems Subscribed User Premium Member

    great pics!
     
  17. schlegelbagel

    schlegelbagel Frog Lover Premium Member

    The only way you would know if there is too much heat, is by a thermometer. Might I suggest a thermostat? I think there are inexpensive ones out there for $25 or so. You can program it to the temp you want and plug the ceramic heat emitter to it, then when it reaches above where you want your temp to be, it will shut off and then turn on when it dips down again.

    I have one on my frog tank. It makes things very worry free.

    Great snake
     
  18. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    I agree with Liz. You won't be around all the time to check if it's getting to hot in there. Get a good thermostat with a probe that goes inside the tank (at the height your green tree python usually perches.)
    From Greg Maxwell's site:Welcome to Fine Green Tree Pythons :
    "Captive chondros do best with a thermal gradient established in the cage. A horizontal gradient is much preferred over a vertical one. Most chondros will perch in the highest part of the cage and will often ignore a vertical gradient. The gradient should be between 78F and 89F with an average temperature of 85 degrees or so. Most captives seek out temperatures around 84-85F under normal conditions, but may bask under warmer temps after eating and at other times. Avoid temperatures under 75F and over 90F.
    The best and easiest way to provide heat for display type cages is with an overhead radiant heat panel. I use and recommend those sold by Pro Products. These panels work very well, and most importantly they will not burn your animals."

    Check out his other husbandry information.

    By the way, your chondro is a beauty. Can't wait to see him change color!
     
  19. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    You are comfusing two seperate products. Ceramic lamps (heat emitters) do not produce light, only heat. The red night lights are not ceramic.
    I too would recomend a thermostat.
    With that enclosed sterilite tub it would be very easy to overheat your snake.
     
  20. 13thWitness

    13thWitness Member

    I've started to look into the Pro Heat products.

    may have to purchase one of those.

    will i able to use this with the rubbermaid tub i have?

    also, i've realized that if i switch to this heat panel, there will be zero artificial light for him. is that cool?


    the enclosure i'm using for him now is a setup that was made for emergency purposes to help him shed.


    although now i realize this the absolute best for him, it may not be the most visually appealing to me.

    prior to this setup i have bought (3) seperate glass aquariums.

    one 10 gallon tank
    then stepped it up to a 24 long x 30 high x 12 deep.
    and last was a 12x12x18 sized exo-terra tank.


    all of these were nice looking setups and i was trying to create something like this

    ---->>

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    if someone could advise on this.
    i've attached images of what i hoping to create.
    well..... i will create this.. in time.


    already have all supplies, mistking, tons of tropical plants etc etc.


    my dream is to grow the vegetation like crazy and introduce the snake to the new environment.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page