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Pacman Frog Problems!

Discussion in 'Horned Frogs' started by Matt Iavarone, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Hey everyone, I'm gonna start from the beginning. Just about a month ago I recieved my little guy. I received him from lllreptile. Everything has been perfect up until the last week or so. He ate the first day I received him and basically every day after that. He started to completely burrow himself and every 2 or 3 days he would poke his head out and I would feed him and he would eat and go burrow again. Just recently he's been burrowed for about a week now and doesn't want to come back up. His skin was hard and I looked up information and thought maybe just maybe he passed away :( but coming home from work yesterday he was in a completely different spot (thank god) but yet completely burrowed again. So should I worry about him not eating or should I let him be and he'll come up when he's hungry like he always has. The humidity is anywhere between 78-84% and the temps during the day when I am not home is anywhere between 80-83 degrees depending on how hot the day is. And when I'm home anywhere between 76-80. Night temps are 74-76. Please let me know anything! I'll do anything for this little guy and I don't want anything to happen to him!
     
  2. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    What type of measuring devices are you using for the temps and humidity? Also, what kind of water? As with all amphibians humidty and water quality are of great importance because of their skin and modes of hydration. I really like pacman frogs, but have steered away from them since they are kind of an "inactive" species in general- so a lot of movement probably isn't to be expected.
     
  3. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    I have a basic zoo med thermometer with a probe and just a basic zoo med hygrometer to read the humidity. The humidity dial is set at substrate level because that's where he sits. And I use regular tap water but I use the reptisafe to take out ant harsh chemicals or anything else in the water. I refresh his water in his dish every other day. And I have a reptifogger with distilled water running on a 24 hour cycle and I mist myself atleast once a day with reptisafe water as well.
     
    EctoJoJo likes this.
  4. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    Well you seem to have all the basics down. Is the hygrometer digital as well? I'm thinking you have everything under control elsewise. The water should be good being treated with the reptisafe. I can't say for sure, but maybe try using the distilled and the fogger for absolute minimum humidity and supplement with the other a little more to assure the salts and minerals arent being sapped too much. Also what kind of feeders were you using?
     
  5. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    No the hygrometer is just a dial. That's all the petstore had at the time. Should I get a digital hygrometer? He's only had crickets dusted with repti calcium d3. I wanted to try a type of worm but everyone has me nervous about the whole "worm can eat out the insides of your frog" ordeal so I've been not too thrilled to try them.
     
  6. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    I don't think you will have trouble with the worms. Wax worms only as an occasional treat though, like pinkies they can lead to obesity. I'm currently using them to beef up a tokay a little on the lighter side. Only use calcium twice a week for now since it's juvenile and being fed more regularly (although right now there's where the issue is your concerned with). If you don't have uvb use some with d3. If your frog is any form of albino don't provide any uvb. A digital would be way better. I am told analogs have a 15% margin of error. I don't know about the hard skin but it is possible pre-molt (I'm not too sure and don't want to misguide you when you're trying to get information to improve your situation). Definitely diversify your food and some of the most experienced members here will let you know that the worm thing is not a real issue.
     
  7. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Well that's good to know about the worms. I know your supposed to offer a varied diet and my little guy is way to small for pinkies so I wasn't sure what else to offer. I guess I could always chop the head off of the worm if it really was ever an "issue" if their is that much of a difference then I'll definitely get a digital hygrometer instead of analog. That's what made me nervous because his eyes are closed and he has hard skin. But the little guy is breathing and I can see his eyes flickering every now and then and he does move from spot to spot. Then other people told me partial hibernation. But all my temps atleast read fine. What's the best or another way of raising the ambient temp in the tank. My little guy is a high red ornate pacman frog. No albino.
     
  8. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    What type of enclosure is it and what are you currently using as a heat source ?
     
  9. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    It's a 10 gallon with a screen top. I had a UTH heater on the bottom but that's not on anymore. I'm just using a blue daylight 40w and a red nighttime 25w.
     
  10. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    The 10 gallon is a good size for now. You did good by removing the uth from the bottom since they burrow to cool down. They do like their privacy so some contact paper or aquarium background, etc. on the back and sides will make them feel a bit more secure. With the screen top and the heat bulbs - this is a good way to lose humidity - with your fogger you are probably okay, but using some tin foil with holes for the lamps will hold in moisture better. maybe a couple holes though for some air movement. Actually the uth on the side of the glass would work well, if you wanted to try that route. Nothing I've thrown out there is a absolute fix, but maybe trying some things will gain you a little improvement in the long haul.
     
  11. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    So I'll definitely try the tin foil to keep in any humidity. How are ceramic heater emitters? I can't get the one off the bottom anymore bit I'll definitely buy another UTH and put it on the back or side to create more ambient heat. What about those heat cables? I'm thinking of a few ways to maybe raise the temp just a few more degrees to see if that helps as well.
     
  12. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    Ceramic heat emitters are great heat sources but will dry out the air like a regular bulb. I've never used the cables at all or very many heat pads actually. I know it is usually highly recommended to get a good brand of uth without the adhesive. Once you remove it you have probably destroyed the internal workings to safely rely on. I've never tried it before, but for ambient heat in a 10 gallon aquarium like yours - I would almost think that a heat bulb in a clamp lamp pointing at the side of the tank would warm the air well ( not keeping it too close to crack the glass) while allowing you to cover the top with something other than foil possibly a piece of plexi with some holes in it for circulation. This I simply theoretical coming from me though as I've never tested it out- just considered it for a heat source for a vertical conversion I have been planning.
     
  13. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    The light fixture is on a lamp stand so it doesn't sit on top of the screen top because I was scared about drying out his skin or the eco earth. I definitely think I'll try the tin foil and see if that helps and I'll cover the the back and sides with something so he feels more secure. I'll use another UTH heater or that he strips or even the heater emitter as a last resort to get the heat up a little more and I'll definitely get a digital hygrometer to check the humidity more accurately. I hope one of these helps my little guy. I miss seeing his cute little face pop out looking for food. I hope theirs nothing else wrong with him but I appreciate all the help and info!!
     
  14. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    Not a problem - hope all works out well. Please do an update in a week or two.
     
  15. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    Just as a side note because you mentioned heat cables... they are good for supplemental heat, but only really work well when wrapped around an object (like a branch etc..) so it probably wouldn't be the best option for a pacman which doesn't spend it's time up on trees lol. Heat tape, a side mounted uth, or the aforementioned heat lamp (I recommend infrared) pointed at the side would be best. Ceramic heat emitters are great, I've used them a lot but you have to position them just so, because they don't shoot a lot of heat directly down, if you measure the temps it's almost like a ring of heat on the floor (with the center being cooler) so can be difficult to direct that heat to a specific area. But if you use it to heat up the glass from the side that could work, or if you are just raising ambient temps they are great as well if positioned right.

    I would think the uth would be plenty for creating a hotspot and thermal gradient though.
     
  16. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    I just picked up a digital thermostat/hygrometer and temp reads between 78.8-80 and the humidity reads between 78-81% I did pick up a zoo med nano ceramic heat emitter and the nano lamp fixture just in case my Temps weren't where they were supposed to be. I filled my sprayer with some luke warm water last night and sprayed down my little guys tank and I did notice he was moving a little more but he's still has his eyes closed and reburied himself again. I'm not sure what else to do. Should I set up the ceramic heat emitter anyways to be on the safe side or would it be useless. I just want my little guy as comfortable and to come out and eat again!
     
  17. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    Maybe take some pics of the enclosure and we can tell you what else might be needed.
     
  18. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 23, 2017
  19. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    My light fixture is on a lamp stand and about 4 ish inches from the screen top. If need be I can list everything I have and am using as well.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. AmityReptiles

    AmityReptiles Well Established Member

    Ok, you have a very pretty setup. The main thing I will recommend (if you are able to keep temps and humidity stable, and arent having issues there) is put in some more cover so he can hide in each temp area (hot/cold maybe even mid if you want)
    It's possible that he is stressed from not having privacy. They do burrow, but cover is still recommended.
     

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