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Pacman Frog Heat Problems

Discussion in 'Horned Frogs' started by Matt Iavarone, Jun 4, 2017.

  1. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Hi,
    I've been setting up a tank for a High Red Ornate Pacman Frog. Everything is coming through nicely except for the whole heat situation. I have a Zoomed 10-20 gallon UTH and I have a Zilla 500 watt temperature controller and the controller is not working at all. Whether I have the controller set to 70 or 80+ the temperature in the tank tops 90+. Any help would be highly appreciated!!
     
  2. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    Where do you have the uth placedon the tank?
     
  3. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    It's set up under the tank on one end. I was tossed between the bottom or on the side and every website or source I've went to had all different answers.
     
  4. EctoJoJo

    EctoJoJo Well-Known Member

    Since these animals burrow to cool Down, that might be counter productive. I would start with trying to test the probe thermostat for accuracy the if it is faulty look for an alternative.
     
  5. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Well like I said everyone is gonna have their own way or how to you use the UTH or where to put it and why but I'll definitely test the probe to see how it reads and I'll have to go from their. Thank you!
     
  6. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I also agree that the UTH shouldn't be on the bottom. Everyone might have a different way of doing things but there are right and wrong ways as well. A species that burrows shouldn't be able to literally sit on the location where the heat is coming from. That is asking for problems.

    I am actually curious as to how the UTH is changing the ambient temperature so much. I have been using UTH's for years and they aren't intended for heating an enclosure. They are designed to create a "hot spot" where an animal can go to get warm. I have used them on numerous tanks and have always needed to use overhead heating elements to maintain the ambient temps. Could you post a picture of the enclosure? If the UTH is really creating temps that high, you will need to either get a better thermostat, larger enclosure or a smaller UTH. (They make a smaller version for hermit crab tanks but don't expect it to heat the tank itself.)
     
  7. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Well that may of been my mistake but like I said previously everybody I asked or any source I went on everyone had a different answer and why. Besides that I have a zoo med thermostat with a probe that's in the substrate and that's what I read the temp from. The UTH is plugged into the thermostat and no matter what I have the thermostat set to the temp on the zoo med thermostat always reaches 90+ I have the reptihabitat amphibian pacman frog kit. The only thing extra is a small piece of grape wood for decoration and I have a few plants coming in to set in the back. I would love to get the temperature settled so I can purchase the little guy!
     
  8. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    So you are actually measuring the substrate temperature and not the ambient temperature. That makes much more sense. You are measuring trapped heat. The UTH could have very well turned off but the substrate is physically trapping the heat inside of it because it is coming up from below.

    How are you measuring the temperatures? The "ambient" temp is the air temperature. You are actually measuring a substrate temperature that has trapped heat. What are you using to determine the substrate is 90 degrees all the time?
     
  9. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    A zoomed digital probe thermometer. That's in the substrate. So should I use that or another thermometer and leave it our of the substrate to receive the ambient temperature?
     
  10. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Well that could be the issue itself. That probe is covered by substrate and is reading that trapped temperature versus the actual ambient air. The UTH being on the bottom is going to consistently create hot spots in the substrate until the temperature of the substrate has the ability to cool. The heat is literally being trapped under the substrate, which is why the readings are so high. Your thermostat is likely working fine (I would still check it) and is likely turning the UTH off when it should but the substrate itself is collecting the heat and until it dissipates through the surface, is going to be higher than you want.
     
  11. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Well that explains why the probe reads accurate when I check it! Is their anyway to make sure that the UTH is shutting off when it reaches the desired temperature I have set on my temperature controller?
     
  12. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    you would have to stand there and feel it manually unless someone knows a trick I don't know.
     
  13. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    I appreciate all the help! One more question. What light fixture and light would you recommend to raise the ambient temperature in the tank?
     
  14. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    The light fixture should have a porcelain socket. The porcelain sockets ensure you don't have a heating element that will melt the socket. The lighting wattage will be determined by you. You can use any low watt bulb you want so long as it reaches the desired temperatures. I don't know the wattage you will need because the temps will be determined by the rooms ambient temps, the enclosure size, etc. You will have to experiment. You are going to find that a 10 gallon tank is difficult to create a thermogradient in though because of how small the tank is.
     
  15. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    Thank you so much for all the insite and answering all my questions! I'm gonna go with a Zoomed blue daylight bulb and a red nighttime bulb. Both 25w. The only problem I'm having is I have a reptifogger misting the tank for me while I'm at work. Is that little bit of mist and water going to be a problem with a light fixture right their or should I get a fixture hanger so the light fixture is off the screen?
     
  16. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    It could be an issue pending how much moisture hits the hot bulb or socket. Raising it would be a good idea to create circulation. You said you have the fogger running while you are at work. Is it on a timer to go off for a few minutes or does it just run?
     
  17. Matt Iavarone

    Matt Iavarone Member

    No its set on a timer. I have it running a full 24 hour cycle. But I do mist myself every now and then to make sure all cracks and crevices are wet. I have it set to 15 minutes on and 3 hours off. Now is it possible to create a type of say like plexiglass over the light fixture to create a so called "barrier" so no moisture or mist at all gets to the bulb? Or will that completely stop any heat from coming through to the tank?
     
  18. Rich

    Rich Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    It would deflect the heat before it has a chance to actually warm the enclosure. 10 gallon tanks are tough because they are so small.
     

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