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Nile Setup Advice

Discussion in 'Help *General*' started by brynster, May 17, 2010.

  1. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    once again great advice :) its been another real hot day today so ive done as you said turned heat lamp off and used the basking light, i did have a 100w but the temps inside the whole viv were very highbeing a small viv, so ive been and got a range of different wattage lights, today ive used a 60w and raised his basking spot about 1 inch or roughly 25mm and got a basking surface temp of just over 120f he seems a lot happier and has been out basking roaming around and had a few swims, he ate another 10 criscets today also 2 prawns but didnt seem to like the mealworms wriggling around but ate when i took them out, because its a very hot day the temp in the digital temp/hygrometer
    reads 37c or 98f humidity 77% coll end reads 30.5c or 87f humidity of 84%, that said as i said earlier he seems a lot happier today, nes viv should hopefuly done this weekend, im going partition 5 foot of the new viv him being small making it a little easier to get him when its time to start handeling him instead of chaseing him all over and stressing him, hes still quiet shy but seems not to be running and hideing as much when he sees me but hides if i go in the viv but he is getting better :)
    a bit long winded but thought id keep you informed as you will know if i need to make or try changes
    cheers
    Bryan
     
  2. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi Bryan, thanks for the update, I think you just need to make the best of what you`ve got for the next few days or so `til the new enclosure`s finished, it`s soo difficult in a small tank like that to get the conditons right, that`s why it`s always best to get the tank and all the internal parameters sorted out BEFORE you get the animal!
    My V. ornatus took 3 months before he stopped trying to bite, tail whip etc, there`s no time limit, they are individuals, but it`s usually easier to have a tractable animal when they`ve been raised from hatchlings/juveniles, but no guarantees, time and patience, no other skill is needed.
    The more you can learn about Varanids in general, the better chance of you "understanding" the animal, there are literally thousands of scientific studies on all aspects of them, read as much as you can, ask as many questions as possible, and hopefully, he/she will have a long and healthy life...
     
  3. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    ive neen busy trying to get viv done so not been on line till now,he now seems to be settling down and eating well, although doesnt seem to like some foods like mealworms also tried him on pealed prawns but dodnt want them but does like crickets and pinkies, viv nearly done now just waiting on the glass company to call and say its done, the advice you have gave me as helped me a great deal and much appreciated, ill post again when ive got the new viv ready for him :)
     
  4. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, the prawns should be whole, not peeled! Also, the pinkie mice are useless for a juvenile monitor as I`ve already stated, hardly any nourishment and skeleton not properly developed, you reallly need to offer the correct diet from the start. Yes, post some photos when the new tank`s finished.
     
  5. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    wasnt sure about prawns wont make that mistake again :eek: gave him the pinky just as i had 1 left, out of curosity would this do for a heat source caged of course and meshed so ho couldnt touch it or get burned etc, connected to thermostat of course, asking as someone i know uses one for his bosk monitor
    hope this link works
    SUNHOUSE 60W TUBULAR HEATER GARAGE / GREENHOUSE on eBay (end time 13-Jun-10 11:28:18 BST)

    or would you say ceramic heat lamps are the way to go
     
  6. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, obviously you might not want to answer this, but are you in the U.K?
    (You can just say "maybe, maybe not")!
    Edit: I haven`t answered the question: That heater looks o.k, but it`s only 60watts, obviously it will last longer than any bulb, but using bulbs means you can adjust the wattages to get the pretty accurate temp ranges you need, and that 60w heater in a large enclosure won`t make much difference, unless you can get higher watts (I presume you could)? I still prefer the bulbs for supplementary heat because they are cheap, and the ceramics can last years as I`ve said, and very easy to interchange if you need to make adjustments.
     
  7. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    answer to first question is yes but would rather be over there with you guys not much to boast about being here it sucks :(
    as for heater i understand what you mean about bulbs being easier to make adjustments though it worth getting your opinion though as every thing you have told me so far has worked great for me :)
     
  8. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    I`m living here in the U.K, not America, but I`m Australian!
    Good that things are working out, have you any idea when the new enclosure will be ready, it will take quite a few days to test the temps etc, and have you decided which lights you want to use, either the fluorescent tubes or the Megaray and similar lamps?
     
  9. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    Oh right lol, was thinking about putting a uv tube in with flood light for basking and ceramic heat lampr for background and night time temps.
    ive orderd toughened glass and im just waiting on that they seem to be taking their time sorting it though :( if its not done over the next couple of days ill get itfrom somewhere else as thats all im waiting for.
    i understand it will take time to get temps right etc and would rather do all that ready for him to go in his new home so i dont have to mess him about to much.
     
  10. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    The fluorescent tubes are o.k, VERY weak compared to natural sunlight, and they need to be within 12 inches of the surface of the animal to be effective, by far the best are Megaray lamps, followed by the Powersuns and other similar lamps, (heat+ light), they cost more, but last twice as long, so in the long term, they ARE cost effective too.
    You can buy plate glass from any glass merchants, if you can bevel the edges with an oilstone, you will save yourself quite a lot of money, (if you`re having a sliding glass front, if not, no need to bevel).
     
  11. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    not been on for a couple of days my internets been down :( , got my glas sorted now and just want to sort temps for basking etc before he goes in the new viv, ill try and get some pics up, ive now found somewhere to get megaray lamps so thats a bonus :) , hes now eating well and seems happy although still goes to hide when i go in his viv to feed him but stays around more when im just walking around the room
     
  12. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    viv now all done just need to know how many vents to put in and position to place them, hes now eating well and not as skitish, ive started sitting in the bath with him 30 mins a day which seems to be helping him get used to me :) , ill get some pics up soon.
     
  13. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, it`s nice to have you back, and good to know everything`s getting sorted out, the vents should be a few inches up fom the substrate, one each side is fine, maybe 9 x 3 inches in size.
     
  14. brynster

    brynster Active Member

    :D thanks its good to be back, thanks ill get them today and fit them,
    yeah things are giong ok, he still tries to bite at times but definatly getting better more hissing than biteing :D
     

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