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New to Dragons, Will Be Making an Enclosure and Have TONS of Questions.

Discussion in 'Water Dragons' started by Logan, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    No plastic filters out UVB to an extent. It's best to have nothing between the bulb and the enclosure. The 5.0 will be ok for now bt you will want something stronger. Have you looked at lightyourreptiles.com for some pricing? He Arcadia 12% high output (its the desert bulb) is highly recommended for adult enclosures. It will basically have UVB emitter down several feet so your lizard has greater exposure no matter where they climb in the cage, whereas the zoomed or exoterras bulbs only emit UVB down to like one foot so he would have to be directly under it for exposure.
     
  2. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    I haven't had a chance to do a whole lot of online browsing. I have tomorrow off so I'll spend some time looking at a bunch of websites for stuffs.
     
  3. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    Annnnnd ... good thing I made that vet appointment ... pretty sure he's starting to make breathing sounds ... clicking maybe? or is that a sound they make on their own when they're irritated?
     
  4. Lyndsbelle

    Lyndsbelle Elite Member

    Mine has done this "clicking" maybe three times now. The same one that was diagnosed with URI. When is the appt?
     
  5. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    The appt is Wednesday morning. its my only day off this week. we had him out again later and i didn't hear anything at all. i did finally get the uvb bulb set up and got his temps pretty high. basking spot hits about 115 cool side 85. night temps at 95. i might be crazy but he seened to be even more active with in hrs of setting up the uv lught
     
  6. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Your temps are way too high. Basking spot should be at 90 cool side at 80 and night temps no lower than 70. Rigt now what you are basically doing is giving your dragon a fever so please lower the temps. And yes uv seems to make them more active.
     
  7. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    I was told by a friend with 15+years of herp experience to raise his temps because of illness abd that these temps were fine ... now I'm super confused......
     
  8. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    For illness raise the temps only after if has been confirmed that he is ill. Clicking is a sound that is made for various reasons I isnt always a sign or respiratory infection. And when you raise the temps never raise it higher than the normal basking spot especially for rainforest/forest animals. Their bodies aren't meant to deal with 100+ degrees it will just cause even more health concerns. In CWDs it usually leads to death from dehydration and organ failures.
    Has your friend dealt with CWDs before? They are very finicky about their husbandry.
    For the past 14yrs I have done an unofficial herp rescue and have lots of experience with various reptiles. When a CWD was brought to me I figured I could do it it couldn't be too much different than an iggy or beardie right? I quickly learned that was wrong they are extremely complicating and aggravating and require lots of research even from someone with more experience than I have. It is this way with a lot of animals. Don't just listen to someone that has a lot of experience with lots of animals you need to verify that hey are an expert on your animal. This goes for vets, zoo keepers, breeders, hobbyists, etc.
    as a general rule ask and google all info you are given to verify its accuracy. Plus Doug it this way will make you more familiar with it as well.
     
  9. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, the basking surface temp is too high, so is the ambient (air), even if the animal is sick and on medication there`s a limit to how much you need to raise the temps. I would suggest a basking surface temp of approx 32c (90f), and a cool side ambient of approx 27 to 29c (80 to 84f)), and you can leave the heating on 24/7 for the time being (but not the lighting during the night). 95f is too high both during the day and night, they must be allowed to cool down at times, even when ill.
     
  10. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Murrindindi gave some good temps for a sick cwdand the night time temp in such a case should be about 78-80F.
     
  11. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    Alrighty ... I had my room mate swap back to the night bulb (left the uvb light on) yesterday when I was at work. It brought the temps down until I got home. I adjusted the light height when I got home and had the basking at 94, the cool side was at 79 and the humidity at 55% over night.

    Also, I had set up the vet appt for URI before the clicking. I had raised the temps because I had the owner of a reptile rescue confirm that his breathing indicated a URI. From the day we got him his sides have caved in a lot while breathing. I do have a video of it I put on facebook if you would like me to link to it. I called the vet yesterday to see if I could get him in today but the two DRs there that deal with reptiles are either full or not there today. There's another vet that was suggested to me for reptiles. I haven't felt well at all the last few days and will probably be calling in today so I might call the other vets office and see if they have seen CWDs before and if they have any opening today.
     
  12. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    Oh ... Hey ... I'm pretty sure I read some where that CWD's can't have kale at all? Is that right? If so, can the bugs they are going to eat have it? I have some but didn't want to feed it to the crix if they can't have it. Also, how likely is it that Toothless will eat the mealworm beetles? I've got 4 that have pupated already. I just got these meal worms about a week ago and they're already changing. It's fine ... I had planned to start breeding them anyways ... I just wasn't expecting it just yet.
     
  13. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    I have not heard anything about them being unable to eat kale. Yes the bugs can eat it. My CWD likes the beetles but some don't try feeding them in a glass or ceramic dish so the beetles can't escape and see if you CWD will eat them. Next if you want to slow down the pupation you can stick the mealworms in the fridge in just the oats (if you have veggies in it it will mold fast). If you do put them in the fridge you will need to take them out every four days and put in slices of potatoes for hydration.
     
  14. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    We put them in the fridge with the first batch we got ... but our fridge is like ... 38 degrees so I wasn't sure if that was just too cold. I don't have any beetles yet, but my gf's dad said that his wouldn't eat the beetles at all, so I thought I would at least ask. We'll be leaving for the vets in about an hour. They had an emergency this morning and had to move us to 1:30. I've discovered that he prefers to eat the crickets if they are in his water dish ... and for the first time ever I saw him actually go from where he was sitting and eat a meal worm. I just put him in a taller bin that we had sitting around today to start working on some climbing and height with him!! Also ... he's shedding again already and ate from our hands last night. Lizz's dad says that the one he got the day before we got Toothless has already doubled in size, so, I'm hoping he'll start growing quicker after this vet trip!
     
  15. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    Home from the vet. She wants to give him another week to see if he'll improve some more on his own. She did clip back the bone from he nonexistant leg. She said he looked fantastic ... even his stump ... she said if he isn't showing more improvement by the end of next week to call and she'll have meds put up at the front desk for us. :)
     
  16. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Hmm..I wouldn't worry too much right now about him growing as he probably needs to heal more first. Is everything else going ok? Climbing? Swimming? Eating?
     
  17. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    He's eating at least once a day if not twice. he's in his water bowl a lot. we are going to give him more stuff to start climbin on now .. and ill see how he swims in the tub later. he's very active and jumps a lot. last night was the first time i saw him actually 'chase' after his food. it was a mealworm so it didn't really go anywhere but usually when i watch him he waits for them to come to him. his energy levels are still increasing. yesterday he had 7 mealworms and a cricket, most of the worms handfed. :)
     
  18. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Sounds like he is settling in nicely. He shouldn't have any issue swimming as they swim like snakes and crocs, more of a body wiggle and not much arm movement unless making sudden turns. If he does have issues climbing one way to compensate is give him more swimming time.
     
  19. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    Yeah .. i plan to make roughly half of the bottom of his large enclosure a swimming area. It'll be a few inches deep to start and ill make it bigger once r gets bigger. we should have everything to start on it in a week or two. obviously gotta seal the wood but we will get him into something bigger soon.
     
  20. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Very good! I would love a video of him swimming and climbing if you are able.
     

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