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Need Some Advice

Discussion in 'Green Iguanas' started by Ecogirl8080, Jun 22, 2017.

  1. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    I rescued a iguana for someone who didn't take care of him. I have him in a cage 5'x6'x2'. I can not touch him yet . He or she is very aggressive right now. He can't climb due to him having no front claws. He seems to be over well very healthy. I have had him for 3 days now. The first two days he did eat very little. Today he does not seem interested in food. He has a spot in the cage for basing that I keep it about 98 Degrees he has other spots in the cage to go when he needs to cool off. I do mist the cage and have a water dish too. Right now his bedding is newspaper. he is brown right now and I've noticed some shedding starting which I guess is good. So my main questions are will his nails grow back, how long should I go before worrying about him not eating and how do I go about getting him train due to previous people abusing him? I believe he or she is around 4 years old.
     
  2. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

  3. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Instead of tearing the paper up just put it down in sheets. It's easier to clean up. And igs tongue flick everything and the torn paper could be injested.
    Whether or not the claws will regrow depends on a few things. Can you give me a good clear shot of the front feet.
    I would bring the basking spot up to 100f.
    If you cover that screen it will make it easier to maintain heat and humidity.
    How are you measuring the temps and what are you trying to feed?
    Iguanas can go quite a while without eating. Gravid females will eat nothing for a couple of weeks prior to laying.

    And not feeding is normal when they have been moved to a new location.
    Just leave him be for a week or so to let him settle in.
     
  4. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    I have clear plastic on 2 1/2 sides to keep the heat in. I have two different temp gates. One hangs in the middle of the cage and one by the basking spot. I put a hiding box in the cage today and she moved most of the paper in it. Also added a small pool for water.
    She did eat today. I offered her skinless apples, collard green, green beans and grapes. She ate the grapes and collard greens . She still don't want me close to her. I know it will take some time. ( a female is so different from a male)
    She is scratching the floor in her hide away box. This is as close as I could get to her .
     

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  5. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

  6. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Other than during the breeding cycle there really isn't that much difference between males and females.
    Looking at the toes my guess is this was the result of the iguana scratching, attempting to dig out of an insufficiently sized cage. It doesn't appear to go so far back into the toe that they won't grow back...although they may return oddly shaped.
    What kind of thermometers are you using. A lot of the cheap pet shop devices are horribly inaccurate. I've seen them off as much as 10-15 degrees!
     
  7. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    One is zoo med. Its a thermometer and humidity gage and the other one is a reptile infrared thermometer. I finally found a vet that will take him in two weeks. Thank you so much for helping.
    I've never had issues with my other iguana. I had him for 9 years before he died.
     
  8. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    If they are the analog ones, replace them with a digital.
    We do get attached to the little monsters. I lost mine after 20 years.
     
  9. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    Ok will do. I'm head to the pet store now. The vet said I needed to get calcium powder
     
  10. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    QUOTE="Ecogirl8080, post: 539385, member: 29080"]Ok will do. I'm head to the pet store now. The vet said I needed to get calcium powder[/QUOTE]

    Can you give details of the type of heat, light and UVB bulbs or tubes you`re using and put a couple of photos up of the whole enclosure as it is right now?
    Are you saying you have an IR Temp-gun to measure the basking surface temp because even a digital thermometer with probes will not give as accurate a measurement, and what`s the humidity range?
    If the roots aren`t damaged and the claws are just broken they should regrow but it might take some months.
    Many supplements are pure guesswork, natural sunlight is by far the best way if you can give the animal some regular access to it (obviously in an enclosure, not free roaming).
     
  11. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    These are the pictures from the first day I got the iguana. I have him by a window so he does get natural light too. I order two heat lights today. One for daytime and one for night time. I'll post more picture as we get the final cage done and when I get home. He will have a second floor. I have had him for 4 days now. He ate great today.
     

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  12. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Thanks for the older pic, new ones will be welcome when you can get them up.
    You haven`t said how you measure the basking surface temp other than you have a digital thermometer, or the type and wattage of the heat and uvb bulbs?
    The most efficient "basking" bulbs are the relatively low wattage halogen par 30 or par 38 flood beam (the "par" only refers to the bulb face diameter) you must use a ceramic bulb holder, they can be fitted with a dimmer switch which makes adjusting the surface temp easier or obviously you can raise/lower bulbs/basking object. They are very cheap to buy and can last up to 3,000 hours...
    It`s extremely important to heat the whole body evenly (snout to vent at least) so perhaps it would be advisable to use two bulbs spaced a few inches apart..
    Here`s an example of one of my Asian water monitors basking sites, the principal is just the same for your iguana (I need more bulbs because of his size). If you do want to try these, I tentatively suggest two @ 60 to 80w.
    EDIT: It`s very important you make sure that the enclosure doesn`t overheat if it`s in front of a window with sunlight coming through (the UVB will not pass through the glass)...

    7833676978_98113c3be9[1].jpg
    23944671826_af1ef18d15[1].jpg
     

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    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  13. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Sorry the pics came in the wrong order (I`m easily confused ;)) here`s a halogen par 38 flood beam bulb....
    11123186274_6832645d46[1].jpg
     
  14. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    I am unsure of the wattage with the bulb I am using atm. I'll post a picture of what I ordered today. Our local pet shops here don't habe anything for exotic animals. That would be a 2 hr drive. Not sure how to answer the humidity. I have a round gage that is in the back of the cage it tells the temp and humidity. ( dont think it works) i have a cool mist humidifier that runs next to the cage. As for the heat in the basking area I point and it tells me the temp. I am upgrading everything cause it is all old. 20170623_214740.jpg
     
  15. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

     

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  16. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi again, can you give an update? Thanks!
     
  17. Ecogirl8080

    Ecogirl8080 Member

    I got her into the vet. He did some blood work and other testing. Everything came back great. She does need more calcium and her nails might not grow back. Her tail does seem to have some damage but nothing to worry about. I am to watch for eggs and if I don't see any in a week to call them back. The vet had to put her in a wrap since she was being very aggressive.
     
  18. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Are you saying the vet confirmed this is a female, if yes, what are you providing for nesting?
    Have you covered the whole enclosure yet and acquired better basking bulbs and a UVB source?
     

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