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Moss and Humidity

Discussion in 'Green Tree Pythons' started by Stefcen, May 15, 2009.

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  1. Stefcen

    Stefcen Member

    I have no problem keeping heat in my cage,averaging 84 degrees, in fact I think it might be on the high side 89 degrees usually mid day, in the evening it averages lows of 76 degrees. I'm having issues with humidity which maintains at 60 or so unless the fogger is actively working.My fogger goes off twice a day and I try to spray once a day so my two girls have droplets to drink. But I've had limited success retaining humidity for more than an hour or so. I heard from a reptile store owner to use moss to help keep an even release of humidity. I know I need to give the cage a day a week to dry out to prevent fugus growth or respiratory infection. Is moss a good idea? Do you guys have experience with this? How much moss is ok? and what kind? I'm looking around on sites now and see a whole bunch, some have dyes which seem like a bad thing, even though my green trees don't touch the ground often. if anyone has any insight I'd love to hear it. I promise to post pictures of my girls olivia and ophelia soon.
     
  2. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Are you talking about green tree pythons?
     
  3. Stefcen

    Stefcen Member

    Yes. I'm trying to maintain humidity for my GTPs
     
  4. wildheart

    wildheart Elite Member

    I can not give you advice on the moss because I do not own a GTP, however I do use moss for my tarantulas and it does work great.

    I used to battle to keep the humidity up in my old ig cage, even with a humidifier. The problem was the cage itself. In what type of cage is your snakes?
     
  5. Stefcen

    Stefcen Member

    A glass arboreal cage with a wire screen top
     
  6. wildheart

    wildheart Elite Member

    I would say that the wire screen is your biggest problem. One of my T's cages also have a screen and it was impossible to keep the humidity up until I covered 3/4 of it with a sheet. I have also added live plants in all their cages and that really works keeping the humidity high. My T's require humidity between 75 -85.
     
  7. Stefcen

    Stefcen Member

    Which kind of plants? I've heard they can make them sick, and are hard to maintain. Is there a certain type that WILL make them sick? Or that's better at maintaining humidity? I ask too many questions but I know young GTP's are a little sensitive and I don't want my baby dead because I made a stupid mistake.
    I owned one before these now, but not for a long time, maybe a two months. But when I got it, he only ate geckos. It took me three weeks of trying to get it to even bite at the pinky, which it ended up dropping. The following week he took the pinky, swallowed it and two days later fell out of his tree and died. So I'm wary of doing too much or two little. Before the pinky fiasco my GTP was doing great, he was curious and bright, and then all of a sudden he was dead.
     
  8. wildheart

    wildheart Elite Member

    I am sorry about your loss and you can never ask too many questions.:) Andrea's snake cages are filled with live plants so I will leave it up to her to answer on which plants is best.;) Fortunately I can use any plants in my T's cages.
     
  9. ChondroDoc

    ChondroDoc Member

    Hi Stefcen

    I'm Andrea's (Blackjack's) husband and in charge of the care of our chondros.

    Unless you live in a tropical environment, a cage with a wire screen top for a tropical terrarium is a really bad idea. Wildheart is completely right, you first have to close the top of your tank to get proper humidity inside. In my terraiums, I have only 4 small openings, 2 on the bottom front an 2 on the top side. I don't like foggers, because they cool down the air.

    Additional plants are great to give the chondros some privacy and help keeping humidity up.
    I posted the plants we use in our terrariums here (see post #14)

    If you prefer moss, I would recommend Sphagnum moss. Andrea uses that for the moist hide-box of her ball python.

    Regards
    Martin
     
  10. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    I agree that glass aquariums with screen lids are not the best tanks for keeping a humid environment. You'll have to cover most of the screen top with plexiglass or some plastic sheeting to keep the humidity up. I'd like to add that you should definitely buy (and read) a copy of Greg Maxwell's book "The More Complete Chondro" and/or check out the husbandry information on his website: http://www.finegtps.com/Care_sheets.html He has some good information about tanks and how to build a terrarium for your chondro.
    Also your GTPs should have a water bowl with fresh water provided every day. Although they may sometimes drink water droplets from their skin, it is not enough to substitute for a water dish.
    We often see ours going down to the water bowl to drink in the evenings. Some of them even like to swim around a bit. It should not be so deep that they can drown, however.
     
  11. Stefcen

    Stefcen Member

    Thanks for the advice on the moss. I have a bowl with fresh water and because I had heard they don't go on the ground often I took the 2 tablespoon medicine caps and I fill those with water near her favorite perch, I've seen her drink out of them. I worry they will get dehydrated, so I put all extra water I change almost everynight. I will be sure to report back about how the whole situation goes.
    Thank you all for responding!
     
  12. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Is the water bowl big enough for the snake to soak in, or is it just a small
    water dish? As mentioned, the best way to keep the humidity up is to cover the screen top, as long as you have that, you`ll never keep the level up...Good luck!
     
  13. Spidermonkey

    Spidermonkey Member

    Humidity has been a juggling act with my cage. I did build a DIY humidifier for the cage and it cost all of about $25. If you would like I could send you some helpful hints on how to do it. It keeps my humidity around 75%-85% with a day or two to dry out.
     
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