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Its Been 3 Weeks, and My New Boa STILL Wont Eat

Discussion in 'Boas *General*' started by jezabella1982, Mar 22, 2011.

  1. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    i tried everyyyyything.
    chicken broth and even braining.....my lil guy wants nothing to do with it......soooo frustrating.

    it seems as if he will NEVER get used to his new house.

    i even bought him a NEW $500 freakin cage,(Showcages.com)
    cause the cage i have now wont keep humidity, and i want everything perfect so he will EAT!!!!!


    AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  2. HERPies

    HERPies Elite Member

    How big is he?
     
  3. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    about 2 ft long
     
  4. HERPies

    HERPies Elite Member

    Is he timid? Like really flighty when being handled?

    are you taking him it of his cage to feed? If so try in his cage. I fared all mine that way, personally (so don't jump down my throat people) I don't think it makes a bit of difference. In fact snake bytes tv has been doing a study on this with there boa babies, and the tub fed baby is more aggressive. That just means that it is snake personality more than cage aggression. I think there video on youtube is top10 wrong info or something like that...
     
  5. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    yes! but only when i try and get him out of the cage. once i have him out he seems a little shy sometimes, but then sometimes it seems like he wants to explore me.

    i notice he stays in one spot in his cage for what seems to be an unusual amount of time......like i NEVER see him roaming around during the day....i know hes more active at night, but idk.......it jut seems like he hates his cage
     
  6. HERPies

    HERPies Elite Member

    They aren't active by nature. They will sometimes sit in the same spot for days waiting for food. All mine will burrow under the aspen and sit for a couple days, only moving to regulate heat. He may just be uncomfortable with you handling him before a meal. It happens all the time in bp's. I'm sure someone will come along and disagree with feeding in the cage but I do it all the time and don't have any additional aggression that wasnt already there... i say its easily worth one time if you don't agree, just to see if it makes a difference. Just don't handler him for a coupler hours before, then offer. If he seems interested, leave it in the cage over night, I did that with one that was constantly striking at me not the food.
     
  7. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    OK my advice is to leave the snake alone! Its in a new environment and this giant "thing" keeps going in and pestering it.
    Youv'e only had it three weeks and in that time,...
    In the first week you had it you tried to feed it three times.
    And I would guess from your comments that you are handling it quite a bit. Which is hard not to do with a new snake.
    It has never had the chance to really settle in.
    Stop handling it and let it get a couple of meals down before you resume handling.
     
  8. BlackJack

    BlackJack Subscribed User Premium Member

    I agree with Merlin. Just leave it alone for another week or even two. Don't try to feed it during that time. Don't handle it during that time.
    Just make sure he has plenty of clean water.
    He WON'T starve, honestly... he NEEDS some time to adjust.


    The only issues I have with feeding in the cage has to do with the snake swallowing substrat.: If you use newspaper or papertowels, it's no problem; but if the snake swallows aspen bedding or coconut fibers, it can cause impaction.
    It should not cause the snake too much unnecessary stress to put it in a feeding tub and take it out again after eating.
     
  9. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    And a new snake should be on paper anyway to monitor its wastes as well as to check for parasites.
     
  10. HERPies

    HERPies Elite Member

    Just curious here, nothing more... If they can digest bone, couldn't it handle digesting a piece of aspen? I know you don't want them to ever eat bedding, I'm just curious...
     
  11. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Bone is calcium, a digestable mineral while wood chips are cellulose, something that they really aren't designed to digest.
     
  12. HERPies

    HERPies Elite Member

    Good point, I was thinking density more than make up....
     
  13. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    rhaar!!yes, its true.....i handle him prolly more than i should right now(about every other day or so)
    but ill take ur advice and leave him alone.
    it kinda sucks, cause i just ordered him a better, nicer, more secluded and not so open cage. now when i get the cage, ill have to switch him again, and he will have to get used to something new again,,,,,

    i am going away for a weed may 11.....i just PRAAAAAY he eats beofre then, or i will litterally expload all over the place.
     
  14. Dragonflies

    Dragonflies Banned User

    Something that many people don't think of when deciding to get a snake, or reptile; who will look after it. If you don't already have a friend who keeps herps, now would be a good time to start looking for one. :)
     
  15. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    I hired a professional pet sitter to come over once a day to check on him, mist, change water, check temps.....

    I usually would have someone from my family do it, but they're not insured, and I would have to KIll them if they let anything happen to my babies.
    ( also have 3 cats and a ferret:)
     
  16. Dragoness

    Dragoness Elite Member

    Yeah - cut your handling to zero for at least two weeks.

    Don't even go in the cage except to do cleanings. Don't poke or bother the snake when you do.

    Don't offer food more often than once a week. When he is good and hungry, he will eat.


    What was his previous owner feeding him? Live? F/T? Fresh-killed? You may want to start out by offering the same food as he is used to, and worry about converting him to your food of choice later.
     
  17. TamJam

    TamJam Elite Member

    I agree that you must leave this little boa alone as long as the temps and humidity are good and he has fresh water and a good, dark hide box.

    Stop handling him, and tell the person you have hired to watch him while you are gone, not to handle him. Keep the cats and ferret away too - FAR away. They would stress him out even more if he sees or smells them. Make sure his cage is secure.

    When you try to feed him again in about a week to ten days, try him with a smaller prey item than he is used to getting, feed him IN his enclosure where he at last is beginning (hopefully) to settle and feel safe. You can try dangling the dead prey item just outside the entrance to his hide if he is in there. This works for me very often.

    Good luck to you and your little boa.
     
  18. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member

    What was his previous owner feeding him? Live? F/T? Fresh-killed? You may want to start out by offering the same food as he is used to, and worry about converting him to your food of choice later.[/QUOTE]

    Well... He said he fed live, but he takes frozen also because sometimes he runs out of live.
    He also said that he was a good eater On f/t as was everyone else in his family.

    Soooo idk if he was just trying to get me to buy or what...
     
  19. jezabella1982

    jezabella1982 Well-Known Member


    Thanks!!
    Yea.... I'm a little annoyed cause my one cat is curious and is always jumping up to his cage to look.
    When the snake is moving around a little at night, he seems like he is curious about the cat too....
    When I hear the cat jump on the cage and go out to yell, the snake is up by the top, smelling the air.
    When my new cage comes on Monday , hopefully he won't want to climb it since he won't be able to see in from the top.
    I wish could think of something to put on the cage so he won't go up there..:
     
  20. Dragoness

    Dragoness Elite Member

    [/QUOTE]



    Typically, we advocate feeding F/T rodents. They are safer, cheaper, healthier, and a lot less smelly (and you can store them easier).

    Most boas are not picky with regards to food - most will convert very easily, and many will easily go back and forth between live and dead prey without seeming to notice the difference.
     

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