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Help With New Baby Jungle Carpet Python

Discussion in 'Carpet/Diamond Pythons' started by tsuch21, Sep 25, 2008.

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  1. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    So I just got my 08 baby jcp and I set her up in a zoo med terrarium with some live and fake plants. He was bought on 9/23/08. Just have a couple questions.
    When should I make my first attempt to hold him? He has already striked 4 times just by putting him in the cage and moving cage accessories. And is there a way I can tell when he is about to strike? And where is the best place on the body to pick him up?

    Thanks tony
    [I’m new =)]
     
  2. xanaxez

    xanaxez Member

    I usually pick mine up about half way down their body or sometimes a quarter of the way down left handed placing my right hand further down the body. With a young nippy one you want to give it a couple of days to settle in to its new habitat but don’t give it too long. I find it easier to tame them faster by messing around with them sooner than later. It is said that most calm down as yearlings but if you don’t mess with it much due to it being nippy as a youngster some don’t tame down well so don’t be afraid of being bitten it doesn’t hurt that bad lol. Also always remember to pick them up from the opposite side that its head is in. I don’t know when the last feeding for the little guy was but check into it if you don’t know and make sure it isn’t hungry. If it bites and latches onto you, remember not to try to jerk it off of you or pull away because you can break a tooth or 2 off into you and that wouldn’t be good for him. I have found if they bite and hang on take a squirt bottle with vinegar in it and mist it around his nose but do not spray into its eyes. Also read a lot of post on here there are others to help you out and remember if bitten with or without blood always take pictures and share with the group. =) lol
     
  3. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    I think I’m going to get him out Saturday. What happens if you can’t grab him without his face seeing you?

    Pics soon post advice if you have some.
     
  4. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    If you just got the snake 2 days ago wait a week then feed then wait 2-3 days then think about handling. I pick every snake up by the mid section, using my other hand/snake hook for support. Young carpets are nippy little things (I really can't wait till I have more hatchlings) though mattering on how young it is you could have problems feeding. Some people don't care if a snake is feeding before the sale. And most carpets need to be force fed their first meals. Also these snakes put down larger food than most snakes their size. They tend to grow longer and stay "thin". My hatchlings are started on hoppers (looks like a big meal, but not a problem for them) and in the first year move up to two adult mice per week.
     
  5. Og_

    Og_ Elite Member

    It doesn't matter if he sees you, you just want to approach in such a way as to keep him from striking. Snakes can only strike in the coil position and can only strike in the general direction that he's pointed at.
     
  6. kcftlaud08

    kcftlaud08 Elite Member

    OK, time for a sissy to chime in. Can't you try handling him with a pair of garden gloves? I would think it would lessen the shock and "not much pain" I keep hearing about. I would imagine, though, that you certainly can't pull back. Or else a tooth would get into the fabric, but maybe it would lessen your reaction and you wouldn't need to jerk away. I would let the experts weigh in on my advice before considering it. :) And since you only got him/her 2 days ago, and there was much activity in setting up house, I would let him chill for a couple of days then try a feeding first.
     
  7. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    pinkie or fuzzy??
     
  8. leslielenee

    leslielenee Elite Member

    I definitely agree with kcftlaud08 about everything except the garden gloves.
    My take:
    If you go in with a fist very very very slowly. They do not mistake it for food because it is too big. They do not mistake it as a threat because it is moving too slow. AND if it happens to bite you it lessens the tearing of the skin and snagging of the teeth. Don't ever draw back because then they mistake biting as the best defense.
    Once you get to the snake, give it time to smell you and if it is still in a defensive position then just be patient. You have loads of time to spend with this particular snake and this is just the beginning.
    After the weekend and a good meal (with a day or two of rest after the meal of course) try the fist without removing the snake from it's enclosure.
    & keep us posted.
     
  9. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    feed him pinkies or fuzzies

    uploading pics right now =]
     
  10. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

  11. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    Like I stated before, I start all my hatchlings on smaller hoppers from day one. I know it looks like a big meal for how thin the snake is, but they are a lot longer and need a good amount of food. Should you decide to feed a smaller item then feed two fuzzies.
     
  12. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    OK and, in your opinion, is it best to feed outside the cage? Does it really make a difference? He struck and bit like 10 times today. Is that how nippy they are or is that over nippy? I'm going to give him like 5 day to calm down. He's probably still stressed. Or is that how nippy they are?
     
  13. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    That's a bit much, even for a hatchling. I would say part of it could be because it's hungy. It's best to feed outside of the cage if there's any chance that the substrate could be swallowed. I keep my carpets on newspaper and feed in the cage, though most times they're on the branches or cliffs so the food never hits the floor anyway. If you don't alreay have one, a snake hook could be a good investment.
     
  14. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    Do you think it's because he's stressed? I only got him 2 days ago. And the store I got him from just got him in from a shipping. So that adds to the stress. I'm going to try and feed him Monday.
     
  15. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    It could partly be, though after two days he should have calmed down abit. I think it's more how long he's been without food if he was just received by the shop thats at least 4 days with out food before coming to you. I would feed as planned on Monday. And wait 2-3 days and then try handling, I think you'll see a big change in attitude.
     
  16. fire2225ems

    fire2225ems Subscribed User Premium Member

    I think that even after 2 days, if you keep sticking your hand in the tank constantly have haven't given him a chance to settle in and feel secure, it isn't unreasonable for him to be nippy. I would also add paper or something to cover the back and 2 sides of the tank to help him feel more secure.

    If it were me, feed the snake today in a separate feeding container, put him back and leave him alone for 3-4 days. I'm not saying not to go in and check on him, but don't go in and try to pick it up or anything. Just do your usual water changes...

    You might also want to clear out a little bit of the foliage so that he has an area that he can bask. In the pictures it looks like the ground is completely covered.
     
  17. xanaxez

    xanaxez Member

    In most cases snakes usually strike in coil position but to say it can only strike in coil position is false. I have a 5 ft coastal carpet that has striked me a few times laying fully stretched out. I myself thought they had to be in a coil for leverage of some sort but I have been proven wrong on that theory by my coastal. She was laying in the floor in no sort of coil and lunged at me and got my leg. So in most cases I would agree if it had not been for her striking me laying completely stretched lol.
     
  18. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    There's like a 12inch long and 7 inch wide of space in the front of the cage.
     
  19. tsuch21

    tsuch21 Elite Member

    I tried to feed him a f/t fuzzy,but he wouldn't go for it. I had to buy a live fuzzy and he ate it. Is there a certain way to get them to eat f/t? He wouldn't even bother with it.
     
  20. fire2225ems

    fire2225ems Subscribed User Premium Member

    How did you thaw it? Was it completely warm? Did you try using tongs to make it move?
     
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