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Help!! She's Sick

Discussion in 'Leopard Geckos' started by Dieboldly, Sep 6, 2017.

  1. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    So I bought this leopard gecko from petsmart a few months back. She was pretty healthy! Just had a fat tail since she lost it there. When I brought her home, she was eating crickets and mealworms. Now, she won't eat at all! This has been going on for about 2 months now. I do see poop here and there so obviously she eats sometimes but not like she use to. So with that, she is supper supper skinny! Like skin and bones! I have tried everything from baby crickets to baby meal worms. Thought maybe I was giving her too big of ones? Nope. She won't even eat those! Her tank is in the garage and reaches about 95 on the cool side when it gets really hot here in southern Cali. Lately her cool side has been around 85 and the hot side around 100. She has a moonlight and she has a basking light but it's a low one since they don't bask. I've had it like this and she was fine but again, she won't eat now. Any suggestions on what's going on or how to make her eat? I did buy something call repta boost today and she ended up spitting it out when I gave it to her. Oh and also, she likes to soak in her water dish....never saw her do that ever before. Normal?

    I'll post a before and now pics
     

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  2. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    SO I decided to mover her into my room under my fish tank stand. House is usually set to a 75 day and night. However, I do have the basking light and I do have the moonlight. What's the temp suppose to be idealistically for her at night and day. Both sides? Also, made an appointment for Friday at 10am for a vet visit.
     
  3. Taterbunny

    Taterbunny Member

    Your original temps are way too high. Temps should be around 75 on the cool side to around 90 on the warm. Do you have an under tank heating pad (UTH), or just the light? What's the humidity like in her tank? Do you have a warm hide and moist hide? She may be trying to soak from having a hard time shedding, since she looks dull. However, it's hard to tell with her being that thin.
    Here's my advice: Good that she's in your room now, outside temps were too high, likely humidity as well. Order some Carnivore Care asap, and mix it with pedialyte instead of water. The liquid diet should be room temp or slightly warm when feeding. Try to feed that to her. Make sure she has a warm hide, and moist hide on the cool side. Give her soaks with wrist-warm (not hot) water for about 10 minutes per day. Some sunlight/UVB may help digestion, just a few minutes a day once she eats. It may be a parasite problem; if you can, bring a fresh poop to the vet for testing.
    Correct temps play a big part in digestion, hopefully she will start eating once it's on track. Heat guns are the best for taking accurate temps, a thermostat is also a good idea. She looks to be in pretty bad shape, you may have to force-feed. I don't really like suggesting force-feeding, but if it can save her life. Look up videos and tutorials for how to do this safely if she still refuses to eat the liquid diet. I'll be hoping for the best for her.
     
    Dieboldly likes this.
  4. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    She does have a under tank heat mat.
     
  5. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Here is how the tank is set up now. I just force fed her two wax worms. Also, take a look at under her belly pic. It's like black or dark blue.
     

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  6. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Look at new post please
     
  7. Taterbunny

    Taterbunny Member

    The wax worms might help, let's hope her body accepts the fat. Keep an eye on her to make sure she doesn't regurgitate the food. I believe the dark spots on her tum are organs, but I'm no vet. :'D
    Your thermometer only measures ambient (air) temps; if the ambient temps are near 90, it's likely that the cage is too hot on the warm side. That may be why she still is sticking to her water bowl on the far cool side. What's the wattage of the UTH? I would suggest getting a thermostat asap. Regulates so your lizard won't burn, and can take the ground temp. c:
    If you can, try switching in a smaller water dish, and put a moist hide in its place with sphagnum moss, damp paper towel bits, or something similar in it. Turn the lamp off also; ground dwelling geckos like leos and afts benefit most from ground heat like you get from the UTH since they don't need a basking area (nocturnal trait). UVBs can benefit them as well for daytime hours, or a little sun. Though the addition of the lamp adds too much heat.
    You really do want to look into something to regulate the ground temps. All we know are the ambient temps, and the mat may very well get too hot as well. My 16-watt mat got over 130F when I left it for only about 20 mins off the thermostat to test it (no lizards near it, of course). That would have burned my fat tails for sure. I believe 8 watts is a bit more regulated to lizard-safe temps, but you can never be too sure.
     
  8. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Yea I have an appointment tmrw to see a vet over here in Yoruba Linda ca. I took the light off of it. With it on, the hot side was getting to 90. With it off, I'm around 80-85 on the hot side. The cold side was at 75. Days the thermos on the back wall of the tank. I did put sphagnum peatmoss under her cave on the hot side. Was told by a lady from the reptile store yesterday to do it this way.
     
  9. Taterbunny

    Taterbunny Member

    Just keep in mind the thermometer on the wall is picking up ambient heat, so don't be worried if it's dropping. You really need a thermostat with a probe or heat gun for accurate temps.
    It's fine to have the moist hide a little warmer, but the lizard should have a dry warm hide, preferably directly over the heat pad. The moist hide can be between the hot and cool side, or double as the cool hide on the cool side of the tank. If you keep it on the warmer side, be sure to check it frequently since they tend to dry out faster when closer to the heat source.
    Hoping your vet visit went well!
     
  10. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Vet visit went well! Thank you for asking. The vet didn't see anything truly wrong with my gecko. Just saw that it was supper under weight! She was only 8grams! Crazy. Anyways, vet said that I can keep doing what I am with the repta boost and pray for the best. She doesn't think it's likely she will come back from this but she also didn't say to not try. So here I am trying! She also gave me an antibiotic just incase there is a parasite or something. She also injected some fluids into the geckos stomach.

    So now all I am doing is feeding repta boost daily only at 1x a day. For now. Her belly looks a little fatter but that might be because she's not digesting it? I wake up to some of it on the paper as if she pooped or it's possibly thrown up. Not really sure cuz it's a liquid. Temps are stable and she likes to hangout in the middle hide. The moss hide is on the hot side but I do keep it moist daily. I kept some small mealworms and 5 waxworms in her dish incase she wanted to eat on her own. Hopefully she will within a week! I will keep y'all posted.
     
  11. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Here's some pics
     

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  12. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    Has anyone tried that golden something slurry?
     
  13. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    OMG! I've been burning the poor gecko!! Wow. I didn't think that the temp would be this different vs the thermostat on the wall. So basically I put a prob thermostat that I use on my seed starting trays for plants into the tank today. I put the prop right on top of the heating pad and it's saying it's 102*!!!! Crazy! The thermostat on the wall says 80*! So I set the switch to turn the heat mat off at 80*. Is this a good temp for day and night? Should I change the temps for night vs day? How will this affect the cold side?
     
  14. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    First thing...take those dial guages and toss them. They are junk. I have personally seen thermometers that were off 10 to 15 degrees!
    Go get a good digital with a probe. They sell them as indoor/outdoor thermometers at hardware stores garden areas.
     
  15. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    I have a good digital one with a probe under the substrate where the heat mat is at. Now.
     
  16. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Good. I saw you talking about heat issues saw the analogs and thought that was all you were going by.
     
  17. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    I was but not anymore
     
  18. Taterbunny

    Taterbunny Member

    Yes, those thermometers on the wall will only take air temps, the thermostat with the probe takes ground temps which is what you needed. :U Glad to hear you got one. Cut the temp off at 90F on the warm side. Should be around 75 on the cold, around 90 on the hot. Do not exceed 94. Don't really need to switch temps in the day/night.
    Take the meal worms out. Wax worms are fine, but meal worms have a hard outer shell that's a little harder to digest. In her condition, only use the liquid diet and wax worms because they're easier to digest (especially the liquid diet).
    Unsure about the tummy issue. Just try to keep an eye on if she's throwing up vs just pooping. Just keep it up trying to feed her the liquid diet. Hoping for the best.
     
  19. Dieboldly

    Dieboldly Member

    So I have been feeding her the liquid diet from repta boost and I think it's been helping. Her tail looks a little fatter then before! So hopefully it is. Also I was thinking, would there be harm in making a repta boost mixture with some live waxworms but grinders up into the mix? Or is that too much fat?
     
  20. Taterbunny

    Taterbunny Member

    Good, hopefully a good sign! ^^
    I know some people will make wax worm slurrys, but I'm honestly not sure on the fat. I'd call the vet and see if they'd answer the question over the phone. c:
     

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