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Going to Build a 4x2x2, Any Ideas on How and What to Put in It?

Discussion in 'Enclosures' started by skelly98, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I agree that you need to first decide what the cage is going to be for before you build it. Other wise you may find that what you have built is not applicable for what you decide you want to put in it.
    Here is a site I like for step by step building instructions.
    This is for a 4x2x18inches but you can alter it for the 2ft height.
    4x2 Cage
     
  2. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    Dipsos require very, very similar care to that of uromastyx...I believe basking temps should be in the 115-120f range.
     
  3. Wolfbandit

    Wolfbandit Elite Member

    I know you said you wanted something a bit more exotic, but a bearded dragon would LOVE that size cage. Not to mention they come in ALL sorts of color morphs and have such great personalities. I love my beardies to death, and it's fun to watch my girls interact with one another, watch them run around the house, watch them interact with my dog (who, mind you, apparently is afraid of them).

    You could get a super flashy bearded dragon for a pretty decent price, especially if you go to an expo or check out fauna classifieds.

    As for actually building the cage, PLAN IT FIRST. I swear, if I hadn't drawn the cage out SEVERAL times, I would have messed up somewhere. Actually, I did mess up a couple times, but luckily for me, I was able to fix it without having to start over from scratch.
     
  4. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    thanks for the plans! my mom wants me to get a bird :rolleyes: but said that if i get another lizard, i have to give her a list of what i might be able to put in it- so here's the list so far:

    uromastyx ornatus
    dipsosaurus
    pogona viviceps
    Varanus acanthurus (probably not as these are expensive and need burrowing substrate witch i may not be able to provide)


    anyone have any ideas as for what i could add to the list? i'm going to weigh the pros and cons of each, so i know i'm choseing the right thing, and so i can make the enclosure the right size and out of the right material with proper ventalation. now, on a side note, would it be possible for me to make shelves in the tank so that the animal has something to climb onto?
     
  5. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    Hi, you don`t need 2 x 4 (inch) framework for that size of enclosure, 2 x 2 will be sufficient. And it`s not high enough for any species of Varanid, as you would need at least 10 to 12inches of substrate, which leaves almost no "air" space.
     
  6. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    well, ackies are out then. any other ideas?
     
  7. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    You don't need 2x2 framing either...in fact you don't need any actual structural framing aside from the front face.
     
  8. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    One other idea; can you make it 90cm (3 feet) high, then it would be o.k for a Spiny tailed monitor?
     
  9. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    i could do that, but it would still not be a good idea, as with a foot of substrate it might damage the table or the floor... this is still a card table, so it's best not to push it with alot of substrate..
     
  10. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    I noticed you have a Mali, which is why I recommended the uro or dipso, which require the same diet and lighting. If you're anything like me you'll have greens go bad in the span of a week or two. This would help consolidate food items, which are cheap to begin with. A beardie would also be a good choice.
     
  11. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    i think i'll do a slightly modified version of the link merlin gave me- with a screen top and frontal ventilation. can anyone tell me how to do a screen top? lol sorry for all the questions, i'm new to building stuff... anyways, i just emailed my local reptile store about how much a desert iguana would be, so hopefully that might be something i can get....
     
  12. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    Out of curiosity, why the screen top and frontal ventilation?
     
  13. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    to maintain low humidity and allow for heat lamps. i saw the internally mounted ones on yours, but my parents would never go for that...
     
  14. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    Unless the room you intend on housing them in has a naturally high rH level I wouldn't worry about humidity. Mine have never breached 50% and we've had a very humid spring/summer. A few simple vents should be fine. However if you do decide on having a screen style top 1/4" hardware cloth would be better than screen, though I wouldn't recommend either. Honestly a solid top with a few hanging light fixtures would be fine. I also wouldn't recommend the flip-down style doors as seen in the link, especially for a flighty lizard. Look into sliding or standard vertically hinged doors instead.

    On another note, why wouldn't your parents go for internally mounted lighting? It's actually much cheaper/safer than you probably think, especially without switches. You can buy a keyless lampholder, electrical box and extension cord for less than the cost of a simple work light fixture.
     
  15. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

    they don't like the idea for some reason. alls i got was a "no", and i really dont want to ask why, as there is always a good reason.. probably because it's a electronic device right next to fuel- so i'm not gonna bug them.. i have lots of extra light fixtures, so i'm not worried about money on that one... also, i saw a custom four by two by two in my local petshop today, (for three hundred dollars), and it had those cool shelves i mentioned earlier.. i think it might be a good idea to put one or two of those in there, so the dipso or whatever i get can get closer to the basking light- moar uvb :3 would it be possible just to screw it in, or should i use silicone, or should i make it like a little den with a hide underneath? i like the den idea because then i don't have to buy a hide, and i can put a rock (tons of unused flagstone in my backyard) on top of it so the hide dosent get to hot- is that a good idea? how would i put the hide/platform in?
     
  16. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    I'm sort of confused...they won't let you put a light inside the enclosure where it will be protected but they will allow it outside the enclosure where it's less protected? And why will it be next to any sort of fuel? Still, I don't think implementing a screen top is a good idea...but that's your call. Not only will it allow a lot of heat to escape but it will also deflect/absorb light/heat and will demolish UVB levels. As for the shelves (although I'm not exactly sure which ones you're referring to), again it depends on what you get and what you decide on for height but for a 2ft high enclosure I see little need. Personally I'd opt for branches and or stacked stone (natural or artificial), which can be easily removed and cleaned if need be.
     
  17. skelly98

    skelly98 Elite Member

  18. CentriRitanni

    CentriRitanni Elite Member

    Wood has to get extremely hot to combust. Much much hotter than a lamp would be. To give you an idea, paper auto-ignites between 440F-470F. Wood is solid, and would require much more heat than that. I put branches in my oven at 350F all the time. Lights next to wood is not an issue at all. In fact, many people set their lights directly on a wood top with holes drilled out with no issue. It would be more dangerous to have them outside the enclosure, as there are more flammable things around (synthetic fibers are especially bad).
     
  19. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    If the heater is getting hot enough to set the wood on fire, your animal would be long dead and cooked!
    This is a 150 watt heat emitter, inside the wooden cage
    th_IMG_0483.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Vers

    Vers Elite Member

    I agree...in order for wood to spontaneously combust it needs to be exposed to temperatures several times higher than what you will have in the enclosure. You also wouldn't have to worry about an external heat source if you mount the lights within the enclosure. While it's understandable that many people are generally frightened of electricity (especially when it comes to doing it themselves) setting up a built in electrical system is actually very easy and quite safe if done properly...it also looks a lot cleaner, IMO. As for the hides, I would just use some narrow pavers with a flat stone cap.
     

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