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Custom Vivs/Encloures Ideas and Such

Discussion in 'Water Dragons' started by KapteeniAnu, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Umm..don't seal the branches. I did that and I even scored them before sealing to give added grip and he still couldn't grab them. I ended up having to wrap vines around them just so he can climb. I also only used one coat thinking that even if it smoothed out the branches having only a thin layer would still allow the roughness of the branch through...it didn't.

    I also highly recommend the fast drying stuff. For the actual cage I used regular poly and stayed up an entire night to get all 4 layers done (if ou wait days in between each coat you have to lightly sand before applying a new layer so that each layer adheres but if you do it all at once no need to sand) and I was exhausted. Also I built the cage before sealing(don't do it it is a hassle, cut all the peices then seal then assemble, it would have been so much easier).
    On the branches and extra shelves and door I used the thick drying and as soon as a layer was on each peice I was able to immediately go back and do another layer so it only took an hour instead of an entire day.
     
  2. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    Thanks again!
     
  3. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Actually the polycrylic recommends a light sanding in between coats to help with adhesion.
     
  4. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    0929122145.jpg
    Above photo is the old way it was setup.

    1204122317.jpg
    This one is the newer arrangement, a lot more to rest upon, now just wish I could have his final enclosure finished up already! He needs to climb! He seems pretty content with it at the moment, been in there about an hour. Definitely enjoys it more than the tank he was in while this cleaning was going on.

    1204122318.jpg
    Finally, here he is peeking up over the barrier, which thankfully, he quickly wandered away from, so this barrier should be just the right height to top the majority of the rubbing!
     
  5. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    How much calcium are you supplementing? More sticks would be great!
    Other than that good job!
     
  6. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    Calcium dusted foods about once a week, and a liquid calcium once a monthish, considering the time I have had him/her (Leaving towards him) And I'm still working on cleaning and rebaking the rest of his climbs. :)
     
  7. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Calcium dust atleast every other day for hatchlings.
     
  8. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Or just do liquid calcium twice a week.
     
  9. Logan

    Logan Elite Member

    You said every other day for hatchlings ... but what constitutes a hatchling? Basically at what size do you switch to a different supplementation schedule? Not trying to hijack, but since I don't know .. i thought the OP might also not know. :)
     
  10. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    He's not a hatchling, he's quite a few months along, eating large gut loaded crickets, minnows, and small pinkies. Along with a wax worms and mealies dusted, but still as a treat, a super worm here and there, and calci worms. Don't think I missed anything there.
     
  11. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    They are considered hatchlings until they are completely bright green at which point they are juveniles. When they reach a sv length of 5-7 inches they will be sexually mature and are adults.
    So even though your dragon is several months old he is small enough to be a hatchling.
    My supplement schedule for hatchlings: multivitamin twice a week, calcium with d3 twice, calcium without d3 thrice a week.
    Juvenile:multivitamin once, calcium with d3 once, calcium without d3 once
    Adult: everything once a week
    Gravid females are given calcium without 5times a week, multivitamins and calcium with d3 still once a week.

    These schedules are for powdered supplements. Liquid supplements don't need to be given as often.
     
  12. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    Last time I measured him, he was a little over 5stv. But I'll bump up his supplements just to be safer than sorry. He's usually a nice bright green unless he's sleeping, but like I said, I'll do it just to be safer than sorry. I have reptiboost I give him, is that good for anything? I also use Rep-Cal D3 ultrafine powder. And the herpvite multivite. And I need to correct myself, I use a liquid vitamin electrolyte spray. Any advice as to better products to be using, or others I need to add to that? Oh, and I have a T8 fluorescent bulb that spans across the cage top, 15 watt.

    And another thing, when he get stubborn and refuses food for about a day or two, I use the Zilla Caloric supplement and appetite stimulant jump start. Is that a bad idea as well? A lot of the suggestions I have been taking item and food wise are between things I have read over the years, and a friend of min who has a.... 6? year old CWD. So please correct me if I am wrong, I get paid at midnight and will be more than willing to go to the store as soon as it opens tomorrow if I am missing something.

    And I rearranged where my digital monitors are, basking area is about 95, cool ide about 75, and in the middle, both top and botto of the cage are measuring at 85 toward the top, and a little lower on the bottom. Humidity stays above 60 at all time and usually maintains a nice 75-80, except for when I disappear for a 10 hours shift, sometimes I come home and find it a little over 60, which isn't too bad seeing as I have my mother check it three times while I am gone, and it's usually no less than 65 even then, closer to me coming home. (My mother is terrified of him, and won't spray his cage. He likes to jump out on her whenever she opens it, almmost like he knows she's afraid of her, which very well may be possible! ;) )
     
  13. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    1205121608a.jpg
    Picture took a few minutes ago after he woke up again, before getting his bath, well soak.

    Also, he likes being in water, however not if it's very deep. For his soaks, I fill the tub up enough that it goes a little above his chest on the most shallow side, and deep enough to swim on the other, and he hates being put in that side. I also put an upside down tupperware bowl that he can climb up on, so that he is barely above the water. Is this usual for water dragons his size/age? My friend said his loved to swim from about 12 inches snout to tail. However, I read somewhere that Iguanas ( i know totally different species) hate being paced into water if the container/tub is white. Does that go the same for water dragons?
     
  14. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    It could be the same with water dragons. In the last pic is that his normal coloring? It seems a bit off. A CWD his size should love swimming a lot but they don't like you just dropping them in the water it is best to place him on something and let him swim.
    You don't have to have your mom check the humidity if she doesn't want to. 60% is fine for several hours. It just can't get down below 50% for extended periods.
    The temps and lighting seem great. As for supplements the sprays aren't the greatest as it is mainly chemicals and electrolytes with very little calcium. Best to go to a pharmacy and ask for pure liquid calcium carbonate (cheaper than reptile brands and more concentrated) the multivitamin and repcal are fine.
    The appetite stimulant and reptiboost shouldn't be given regularly they are more for illness or emergencies. You don't want him getting dependent on these items or them camoflouging an illness related hunger strike.
    Best thing to do if he isn't eating is switch what you offer. Most of the time it is boredom that stops them from eatig and is easily fixed. This is also why I have atleast 3 types of food on hand at all times.
     
  15. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    Sorry I don't know about the tubs I always use large tupperwares for bathing as I only have a shower.
     
  16. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    It isn't his normal coloring, seem to stick around for a bit after he wakes up for the first time before he feeds. His back i also starting to flake a bit, so hopefully that means a shed, considering he was just at a vet this past week. And thank you for reassuring me about the humidity, I read somewhere that as long as it doesn't go below 60 that it's still a safe place to be. And I have only had to use the appetite stimulater twice, and I am assuming it was because of boredom with diet, thanks for letting me know not to get dependent on it, I keep a close eye on his diet. What exactly would you recommend, I switch between live crickets, super worms, meal worms, minnows, pinkies, calci worms. Anything I'm missing that I should be offering? (calciworms don't seem to stay long here, because they pupate very fast because at the store they are kept room temp, as well as superworms, I usually buy a pack of 50 each and only get about 15 worms out of it, which is highly aggravating. Trying to master breeding the live foods on my own) I just gave him a soaking, and his color is a bit brighter, also gave him a soft scrub with a super soft toothbrush. Seems like he was absolutely dirty, has been a little over a week or so that he had a real soak other than in his cage. His markings seem to be disappearing little by little. Can this be caused by stress? I know he is in need of an upgrading of enclosure and space, but until I get together all of the supplies I need to buy, and go to get them and such, and the month of everything setting out to rid of the fumes etc, along with construction time, I feel bad for the guy. Also jut to add in, I really truly appreciate you taking all this time to reply and inform me. You've been very helpful.

    As for the swimming I don't just plop him in, I'll usually keep him in my hand and let him submerge a bit to where he'd usually lay, and when he chooses to jump off, he'll swim a bit, somethings into the side of the tub, and then scramble for the shallow area once more. Maybe my bath tub isn't large enough for him, or maybe it is the whole color thing, because the tupperware he sits on where he comfortable soaks, is blue. I'll have to test something out next time, maybe put a colored towel in the bottom.

    Do you have anything to say about offering the canned foods? Such as worms and crickets? Also, what is your thought on feeding snails. I have found several people who do, while others don't even try it.
     
  17. Jes123

    Jes123 Elite Member

    Bamboo is great for them to climb on! just make sure it hasnt been stained or anything make sure it is natural if you have a tree of it or something make sure you put it in hot water as hot as you can get it and leave it in there for a while and allow it to kill the parasites.
     
  18. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    I'd love to give him more than the 5 things he has to climb and perch on, but my tank size just can't offer that, which is why I want to make sure I get all of the right materials so I can get his final enclosure made as quick and soon as possible.
     
  19. KapteeniAnu

    KapteeniAnu Elite Member

    This thread went completely off topic considering I posted it to more or less get the list of materials I need to build him a wonderful home so I can get started on it immediately xD
     
  20. Thalatte

    Thalatte Elite Member

    On well. I did a thread on whether or not I should feed hornworms and it is now arguments about the best soda...it happens.
    I don't think CWDs have the jaw power necessary to crunch snails...slugs would be ok. Superworms shouldn't be pupating as long as you keep them in groups as they only pupate when seperated. Silkworms and hornworms are extremely healthy to feed. As well as mantis, locusts, shrimps, grasshoppers,and roaches. My CWD usually eats roaches eagerly.
    The canned insects are rather bad since the freeze drying leeches all the nutrients out as well as the fact that CWDs generally don't like dead bugs.
    I know you had more questions so I will re-read and try to answer them.

    For humidity: optimal range is between 60-75% and you don't want it to fall below 50 or get above 80%.
    Breeding bugs: dubia roaches are easy to breed as are mealworms, and if you can get past the giant settles and bitey worms superworms are also easy.
    Markings: is it just that he is darker sometimes? Or is it even when he is bright there are no markings?
    Construction: if you get the quick drying polyurethane and do all the coats in one day the it should only take a few days to cure. If you out heat lamps on it will take even less time.
    Was that all the questions?
     

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