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Ceramic Heat Emitters and House Fires Wifes Got Me Worried

Discussion in 'Burmese Pythons' started by spitkicker, Oct 1, 2012.

  1. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    Well I got a new baby granite albino burm yesterday and decided to add a ceramic heat emitter to his temporary cage the cage is made from rtd plywood and glass it's 5ft w by 2.5 ft deep by 2.5 ft tall. I was having trouble heating it with just the heat pad so now the hot side stays around 86 ambient and 91 on the pad. What my wife's worried about is the che catching the house on fire and refuses to let me keep it on when where not home. Also our house gets extremely cold in the winter time 55 sometimes. Ill take any advice I can get. I can't post pictures right now but I'll say that the che is resting on top of hardware cloth that's stapled to the wood top of the cage there us about a half inch space between the wood top and where the che sits.
     
  2. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Ok first when you say the emitter is resting on the wire, are you talking about the emitter itself or is it in a reflective dome.
    It should be in a dome. This will not only reflect the heat downward it will protect it from something falling on it and make it more stable.
    If the emitter itself comes in contact with a flammable substance then a fire is a possibilty. But the same is true of a regular household incandescent bulb.
    Its up to you to make sure that that can't happen.

    That said I have used emitters on cages for years. I have them in reflectors sitting on top of a wire top as well as in a keyless socket attached to the inside of a wooden cage top.
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  3. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    It's in a ceramic / metal housing waited for 150 watts the che itself is 150 watts the doom is resting on the hardware mesh wire and there is aproxomitly 1" of hardware mesh on all for sides between the doom and the rtd plywood. I'm worried that one the rtd will get to hot and catch I'm also worried that if I put it on a thermostat that it wout be able to raise the temp enough for when it's 50 in the room and just overheat.
     
  4. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I have 2 different 100 watt emitters in domes that sit in circles cut out of masonite that is exactly the size of the dome's base. It is fine and has been running for years.

    A thermostat will hold the temperature of the enclosure. It isn't going to make the emitter run any hotter than it would if it were unregulated.
     
  5. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    This is what I am talking about. The first is using 100 watt bulbs and the second is using a 150 watt heat emitter.
    Both these setups have been running for years and as you can see the wood is not even discolored. And the room gets down in the 60's during the winter.
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  6. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    Awesome well currently the dome is sitting on the top of the hardware mesh sta pled to the top of the tank my plan is to recut the square a little bit cleaner use the mesh on the underside of the hole and on top to double safe my burn touching anything too hot and I plan on ordering a thermostat from big apple to regulate it. Does that good? Also the heat mat is mounted to the tank inner bottom with a sheet of think wood board mounted on top of it should that be put on a thermostat as well. I appreciate the advice this is calming my nerves thanks.
     
  7. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    Both of those are sitting on the standard screen aquarium top, with the masonite covering it to hold in heat and humidity.

    Are you saying the heat mat is inside the tank? It shouldn't be.

    And living in Oklahoma where with our crazy weather changes, you can find yourself running the heater and the air conditioner in the same day so I am a firm believer in thermostats.

    To be honest the only time I can recall having fires start due to heat emitters is if they are not secured and got knocked off onto carpeting or some cloth such as draperies got against it. It's all about making things secure.
     
  8. JoeyG

    JoeyG Subscribed User Premium Member

    You can also look into pro heat panels. They are of much lower wattage and much safer providing awesome heat. They make them in different sizes and I can't say enough good things about them and how happy I am with them. Their a bit more pricy but well worth it in the long run. Safe to the touch and wont catch on fire. Just another option
     
  9. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    The heat mat is in between the bottom layer of plywood and has a layer of plywood on top of it it's "pancaked" but the snake cannot come into contact with it
     
  10. mld

    mld Subscribed User Premium Member

    I think that the heat mat may require some airflow! Both the ceramic heat emitter and the UTH can be plugged into the same thermostat like the Repti temp 500 R

    This may seem like a silly question, but what does rtd stand for?
     
  11. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    RTD stands for rated basically it's sold for the purpose of sheeting walls or roofs of a house it's kind of like a higher grade bc plywood it's stronger and sturdier
     
  12. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    The cage has awesome air flow Im measuring the exact temp of the floor where the pad and the che meet so I'll know shortly with Kyle digital temp. I've read some horror stories about the r500 so pip be ordering the big apple in house thermostat for 44.00
     
  13. spitkicker

    spitkicker Member

    The hot spot where the heat pad and che meet is 101 degrees good thing the snake hasnt been laying there. its only been on for a day and Ive been getting no sleep so the che is turned off now so the temps will be dropping down to 72 ambiant again at night on the hot side. Back to square one.

    My plan is
    1. cut a slightly larger hole for the che humidity in the cage is not a problem it stays around 50 to 60%.
    2. add my thermostat when it shows up.
    3. monitor my temps and humidity as i normally would checking whenever i can.

    Can anyone think of any improvements? Also where should i mount the probe if im running both of the thermostat?
     

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