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Ceramic Heat Emiter. for a Vivarium

Discussion in 'Heating' started by HydroDragon, Mar 5, 2010.

  1. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    This is a question about mouting a Ceramic Heat low in my vivarium. It would be protected from anything getting near it. The reason behind is that if heat rises it would make more sense to have the source of the heat start low in the cage right? (roughly 10" from the substrate floor)

    Also, Should I mount my Flourescent inside of the Vivarium? So as to keep the top completely sealed? Or should it be set ontop and screened off?

    Now is the time to incorporate this stuff into my setup if its ideal for warming and keeping humidity in the vivarium. The top is going to be completely sealed and done in Dura-Ceramic tile.
     
  2. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    Personally I would mount everything inside. Less openings for heat and humidity to escape so would be more cost effective ;)
     
  3. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    Mounting everything inside is best I would use at lest a strip of 2-3 mesh in the front of the cage above the substrate and another near the top. For air circulation. The cage it self will still stay as warm as you need. I would also mount the CHE at the top mattering on the size of your cage a 150 watt should do it also provides a vertical heat gradient.
     
  4. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    The Internal Cage size is 28x22x26 after being filled with substrate and the backgrounds. I plan on putting vent holes, one on each side. But you suggest doing one at the top and one at the bottom?

    I will mount the tube light and the Ceramic light both inside. I will just leave the ceramic heater up towards the top (maybe 8" below the top) as to keep the Heat Gradient vertical.

    Just trying to get this setup the best I can from the get go. This is one of the luxuary's of do it yourself cage construction. Everything goes where I want or need it. Rather than being stuck with only one option.
     
  5. titus

    titus Elite Member Premium Member

    Side vents are fine if thats the way you want to do it. I would suggest making one side low in the cage and the other high in the cage. The high side will let hot air out, an the low room temp air in. This keeps the air moving I put both my vents in the front side, because I'll place cages side by side, stacked, or one side to a wall. Then the side vents are less than useful, but they are fine for a standalone cage.
     
  6. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    The Balast I had around only supports upto a 100w. Is that going to be enough do you think? (its the Zoo Med mini dome, i just like its size. I can upgrade if i have to.)

    Also I think I will get rid of idea to put it inside. Its only going to take up space that way anyway. And If I mount it ontop. The 6" hole in the top will alow some air to vent out. Which will give me 2, 3 1/2" hole's low on each side. And one vent (balast sitting ontop) in the top.
     
  7. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    Whats going in this cage??
     
  8. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    Eventually once i get the plants in and the temp and humidity levels right. Red Eye Tree Frogs. Most likely going to start with one, then add another later.
     
  9. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    Ahhhh

    You should talk to Liz. I believe she has 3 red eyes she's looking to re-home.
     
  10. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    Sill wondering if my 100W Balast is going to be enough wattage for a ceramic heat emitter? If its not I will need a larger balast and a larger hole cutout for the heat emitter to be let in.

    Also still wondering if the two low vents on each side and the one top vent (for the light balast) Will be enough for air circulation. Gotta know before I start cutting holes.
     
  11. murrindindi

    murrindindi Elite Member

    I think the two vents lower down would be sufficient for air circulation, it really depends to some extent on the size, if you make them approx 9 x 3 inches it should be fine.
     
  12. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    I did not plan on them being that large? The cage is going to be for RETF s and is about 34x24x34. I Had just planned on making 4" holes one on each side.

    I suppose i wont know if the 100W ceramic bulb is hot enough untill I get it in the setup and running?
     
  13. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    I think 4" would be more than fine for air circulation. And no, you wont know until you have it in if the 100W will be good enough. I'm going to guess it would be tho. And if your putting it on the top outside the enclosure you can still cut the hole for it. If 100 isn't enough you can just get a 150W che.
     
  14. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    Yeah that would be only to simple enough. Unfortunatly as I stated in another post. My available Mini Dome only supports up to 100W. So if I cut the hole for the mini dome. and need a larger balast. The hole will be to small for a larger sized balast to fit in the hole. (or does the balast not have to sit IN the hole.) Just above the opening I assume would be fine as well right?
     
  15. shwknight

    shwknight Elite Member

    I must be lost....
    You are going to have a mini dome on the outside of your enclosure with a 100W che in it correct??
    Or are you saying the dome will be inside the enclosure with just the ceramic socket part of it sticking out of the enclosure?

    If the first, just cut the hole for the mini dome and if 100W isn't enough and you want to change dome size you can just enlarge the hole a little for the new size dome.
    And if the latter, then you can do the same thing.

    Or, if you don't want to use a higher watt che you can always just add a regular bulb to increase the temp.
     
  16. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    Sorry for the confusion, I decided to eliminate putting it inside the cage so as to not take up more internal space.

    So the balast is going to sit ontop of the cage just like any other setup. I guess I just wont be able to finish the cieling in Dura Ceramic untill I get my temp's right and know if the 100W will be enough. This way I can still enlarge the hole if I need to. Without ruining my Dura Ceramic tile.
     
  17. schlegelbagel

    schlegelbagel Frog Lover Premium Member

    I'd just add all the frogs at once, then you don't have to deal with a quarantine tanks for 30 days when you get more.

    I have my heat emitter on the outside. Works just fine with the wood top.
     
  18. Merlin

    Merlin Administrator Staff Member Premium Member

    I'm a bit confused. You keep referring to a "ballast". CHEs don't use a ballast.
     
  19. schlegelbagel

    schlegelbagel Frog Lover Premium Member

    Maybe he means dome?

    Here is my wood top with CHE and dome
    DSCN0621.jpg
    DSCN0623.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  20. HydroDragon

    HydroDragon Elite Member

    I do mean a dome, im sorry for using the wrong term. And that setup liz posted is pretty much my idea. I was planning on putting the CHE in the center. But Im assuming that off to one side is better because its easier for the herp to regulate body temp?

    Also I see there are 2 Flourescent lights. My plans were only for one. Will I need 2? Since I only plan on using Full Spectrum bulbs for the growing of the plants.

    (side note)
    From my research RETF's dont need a UVB light. As from what ive read it does not benefit them. Ive read this on a couple different care sheets.
     

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