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Cage Getting to Hot? Help

Discussion in 'Heating' started by Hkg, May 8, 2014.

  1. Hkg

    Hkg Elite Member

    I just got a boa constrictor on Sunday and I love him to death already! In his cage I put a tstat and a thermometer right by eachother. On Monday I had school so I left and instantly had a bad feeling, I thought I set the cage at 95 degrees which is a little hotter than I wanted. So the day felt like forever because I was worried. When I got home I looked and saw that he had pushed the tstat over to the cold side. So the cage got 105 degrees in the center of the basking spot (where he was) so I turned the light off and put cold water on him to bring his temp down. Then I taped the tstat and thermometer to the bottom of the cage and poked a hole through the paper. So it sticks up. All was well till I got home today and found him coile in top of it and the temp was 102 degrees so again I turned the lights off and watered him down. I'm really afraid of him doing it again. What should I do? How should I position the tstat probe? I have a rock, could I run the probe up onto the rock so he won't coil up on it? I'm still afraid he will though? I have a ceramic heat emitter and a new thermometer/hydrometer and some other stuff coming in the mail. What's your advice?! How can I keep my snake from cooking to death??!?
     
  2. ExoJoe

    ExoJoe Established Member

    I might suggest the next size down on the heat emitter so that it won't be able to get so hot. Or possibly try simply using a rheostat to manually control it yourself. Hope you find this helpful.
     
  3. mshrmheadcharge

    mshrmheadcharge Moderator Staff Member Premium Member

    Hey there. You don't want to put cold water on the snake to cool him down, he can thermo regulate once the enclosure temps go down.
    You can get a dimmer for that light, or a rheostat. You can even just use the next size down in bulbs, or toss it all together and get a household bulb.
     
  4. Darkbird

    Darkbird Elite Member

    Need more details before we can really make any suggestions. Need a full rundown of the setup, including things like what actual equipment you are using, cage construction, and so on. A dimmer placed in line between the t-stat and the heat source may be a good idea though, it could be set so the the heat soirce only gets a little hotter than ideal when full on. Better though is to get the probe secured so your snake can't move it, hence the need for details.
     
  5. Hkg

    Hkg Elite Member

    I'm away rom the cage right now but I'll do my beat to describe. It's a melamine cage about 3'x2'x2' (lengthy widthx height) with a reptile basking bulb above. 75 watt I think. And that's hooked up to a Zola tempature regulator thing. I for for the name. That's set to keep the cage 88-90 degrees but he keeps messing with it (moving it (before I taped it) and laying on top) the ceramic heat emitter is 60 watt so it shouldn't get as hot. And would a normal light bummer work. It doesn't have to be anything special correct?
     
  6. jaydsr2887

    jaydsr2887 Elite Member

    I agree with dark bird and the rest..... you need a rheostat to help keep the heatsource from going over the max temp you want and my suggestion since you are using melamine ( like I am for my iguana) but be careful with the melamine, it's basically wood shavIngs held together with glue, so the tiniest crack or hole will open it to mold and mildew..... I didn't know this, so be careful with the high humidity..... but any ways use Velcro to hold the probe in place...... or you can use silicone or hot glue.....
     
  7. ExoJoe

    ExoJoe Established Member

    A normal dimmer would work. Finding one the hooks right into the cord or outlet might be tricky. Might be easier to find a dome with one built it. Possibly the ceramic emitter and the basking light might be a bit much to be using at one time. Melamine is a good insulated material.
     
  8. Darkbird

    Darkbird Elite Member

    A regular household dimmer switch would work well and be inexpensive, but you need to be able to do some basic electrical wiring. The other option is as was mentioned, purchase a fixture with a dimmer built in. I personally have not had good luck with the in-line dimmers in the few reptile fixtures I have which have them though, but that may just be me.
     
  9. jaydsr2887

    jaydsr2887 Elite Member

    I never said it wasn't good, as I use it too.... I was just warning him about the flaws of it too about how if it gets a hole it can easily be prone to mold.... that was all I was saying....
     
  10. Hkg

    Hkg Elite Member

    I'm not gonna use both. I bought the heat emitter to replace the bulb cause the bulb gets to hot.
     
  11. JohnR

    JohnR Member

    Would you take a picture of your set up so that we can see how you have it?

    From what I understand, you have a heat emitter on top and the probe for the thermostat on the bottom, is that correct?

    if so, your probe is too far away. If you have the thermostat set to say 90 degrees, the probe is telling the heater to heat all the way to the floor that temp, which causes the heater to heat up really hot.

    I don't own any boa constrictors, but I thought under tank heat was the best for ground dwellers?

    Honestly, you should ALWAYS get enclosures set up and running prior to obtaining any reptiles. This way, you don't run into problems like this. Don't skimp when it comes to heating and temperature control. Remember, you have a heater with wood all around. That could lead to potential danger.
     

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