Discussion in 'Ball Pythons' started by earwig, Jul 25, 2005.
i took a couple pictures of the tank and how do you put one on here?
If you know how to resize your image using msPaint or other image software you can edit it to fit as an attachment, anything less than 97kb. You do this by accesing the "manage attachments" button under additional options.
Your other option is to host it on an image hosting site such as photobucket or imageshack.
I'd like to ad something about the feeding problem you have with your ball python:after he's settled in ok,try to feed him in a dark (black) feeding box.Put some holes in the lid.Put the mouse(f/t!) in first,then your snake.put the lid on and let him in there for about 15min.Then check on him;if he's not eaten,leave him for another 15min,half hour.As ball pythons are nocturnal,some feel saver to eat in a dark,small something,like a feeding box.It's sure worth a try,because it worked with other snakes before!
i used jacky's advice but he still didnt eat. i still have the frozen mouse, but I dont know if its still good or not. do you think the ball python will ever eat?
I know this is frustrating to the point of tears... my Monty was a real fussy eater in the beginning.
Here's what I do now and he eats like a charm:
1) First defrost the mouse completely.
2) Warm up your feeding box with a heat pad underneath (on medium)
3) About 5-10 minutes before feeding, take out your BP and put him in the feeding box with a little hide-box. Leave him in there for at least 10 minutes in the dark to settle down (15-20 minutes is even better: don't worry if he goes in the hidebox.)
4) Try to keep the lights dimmed; just enough light so you can see what you're doing. Next to the feeding box, heat up the mouse with a hairdryer. (I highly recommend getting a temp gun: Radio Shack sells them.) You need to heat the mouse up to live mouse body temp (about 100F) Some people recommend hot water or heat lamps, but I find I can control the areas warmed better with a hairdryer.
The BP will sense the heating up process and smell the mouse heating. This should get him interested.
5) Open the lid of the feeding box carefully so you don't freak him out. Take the mouse by the hips in the feeding tongs and hold it about 2 inches away from the snake's head. Do NOT chase him with it! Slowly move the mouse sideways away from the snake: some snakes don't like to be face to face and prefer to ambush from the side when the mouse "isn't looking".
6) If he pulls away or doesn't seem interested, take it out and heat it up some more and try again. Sometimes it took me several tries: take it out, wait, heat it up, try again... then suddenly he decided to eat it.
Make some notes each time you feed: what you tried, what temps you heated the mouse to: that way if he suddenly eats, you won't have to wonder why and whether you can do it again!
Try not to get too worried and frustrated... nearly all of us with BPs have been there.
I would recommend taking his next stool sample in for a check just to be on the safe side: sometimes if they have internal parasites, it can cause a lack of appetite. (My BP Monty had tapeworms in the beginning.)
And as a last resort you can leave the f/t mouse in there with the snake, making sure it is securely closed and turn off the lights. Then go watch TV or clean cages in another room, come back in an hour and check. Believe it or not I have a ball that will only eat if left alone in a dark quite room.
LOL while mine will eat laying on a towel sitting right in front of you!
So much for "Typical" behavior!
so when should i try to feed him, tonight?
And more "typical BP behaviour":Monty won't eat unless I'm holding the mouse in the feeding tongs. Leaving it motionless in his feeding tub never worked for us. Earwig, you can see that not everyone's successful method will work on other BPs: you'll have to try different techniques to see what gets yours eating!
You can try feeding again anytime; if a snake refuses, I usually wait one full day and then try the next evening.
Let us know how it goes.
im going to try to get a smaller mouse because he might think its to big for him to eat.
Yes Ball pythons are nocturnal and the late evening is the beginning of the "day" for them.
hmm im having bad luck with him, I can see his bones because he's so skinny. Im running out of ideas now, what do i have to do about him not eating. Just try every night with a f/t or maybe should i try a live mouse?
ok, now im panicing
If you can see his bones, I'd take him to a herp vet as soon as possible Can you do that?
It sounds like he probably has internal parasites which are causing both the weight loss and the loss of appetite.
I agree with Juliane: take him to a vet ASAP. They can give him some vitamins and fluids via injection and best advise you.
I agree, if the snake is so thin you are seeing the bones you need to go to the vet NOW! The sooner you get it to the vet the better the chances for recovery.
ok i will
Please let us know! I'm sending as many good thoughts and well wishes your way as I can!
Good luck with him!! I do hope very much that he will soon be well again.You said the lady at the shop only had him for a week?! That's never a good thing.She shouldn't have sold him to you in the first place!He certainly had a lot of stress,being in the shop for only a week and then move again.You should never buy a snake without knowing it's story; how it feeds ecpesially! I would look for another store to buy your next snake from(if you plan on more snakes).
At my store,the guy wouldn't even show me the new corns properly which arrived the day before,because they were settling in,and if you get people like that in a pet store,you will know they mean well for the animal!
I wish you all the luck in the world.Ball pythons are so cute and great snakes!
before i was going to bring him to the vet, i called the lady at the pet shop and she said to try feeding him one more time but not at night . So I bought a live mouse and it was alot bigger than the live one i had before. i tried feeding it during the day at 1:00 and it devoured it.
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