I have been wanting to get a Columbian Rainbow boa. I have been doing research here and there on them. I have a setup but someone told me it wont work.

Here is what I have : a 40 gallon glass tank and stand, with 3 inches of cypress mulch in it, a water dish on one end, a bowl of water on the other end, a log hiding spot, a vertical piece of driftwood to climb on, and a 100 watt ceramic heater, and a digital thermometer/hydrometer. I am having real problems with the temps and humidity. My tank does have a screen lid, I have tried covering it with plastic, I have a humidifier in the room, I have the water bowls in the tank and have even tried misting the inside of the tank. I have been told that the ceramic heater dries out the air way too fast thus keeping the humidity too low. I also have a problem with getting the temp right. it seems like the spot where my heater is , its about 85-90 degrees but theres not much of a gradual change, like the middle of the tank might be 60-70 degrees.
Should I just scrap what I have and start over? or should I find another snake for my setup? I was really wanting a Columbian Rainbow Boa. Any help would be appreciated!!!!!!!!!

I don't know much about the snakes, frogs being more my field... But I imagine you will get people telling you to get rid of the Ceramic Heat Emitter and try for a Under Tank Heater and a light that can be used for lighting the whole setup as well as help with the temp. Both of these should also not hurt the humidity to much....

Some info hope this helps…

Recommended enclosure size 4' x 2’ x 2'
Temp- basking 90 degrees, ambient daytime 78-80 degrees, Night 70 degrees
Recommended Heat source- Ceramic Heat Emitter
Humidity 75-80%
Use a moist hide to increase humidity

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Colleen

wow ok so I'm not the only one that likes the Ceramic Heat Emitter! = )

I agree with the Under Tank Heater,,,I use both Under Tank Heater's and Ceramic Heat Emitter's for my redtails. I turn off the Ceramic Heat Emitter's at night. I use both on the same side and daytime temps stay around 90. the center of the tank in the mid to low 80's and the cool side in the high 70's to 80. (daytime temps) At night with the Ceramic Heat Emitter off the warm side drops to low-mid 80's and the cool to room temp, however they can access a hide above the Under Tank Heater that is warm. I use newspaper as a substrate and have water bowls on both sides so my humidity is never an issue. hope this helps

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Ken
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem." -- Ronald Reagan

yes this helps, thats what I was thinking about doing, adding a under tank heater and maybe even hooking them up to a control where I could turn down or up the heat as needed

Sorry to burst your bubble, but the information was not from personal experience.

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Colleen

I have mine on a rheostat (the Under Tank Heater) and the Ceramic Heat Emitter on a timer.

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Ken
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem." -- Ronald Reagan

tell me more kenman please

the rheostat helps keep a constant temp for the Under Tank Heater (I use human heat pads from walmart, not the big $$$ kind from the petstore) the timer for the Ceramic Heat Emitter is from home depot and is set on a 12 hr cycle. The actual "daylight" they get is from all of my UV lights for the lizards and turtles. I have 2 digital thermometers in each tank so I can monitor both warm and cool end, which I do on a daily basis.

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Ken
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem." -- Ronald Reagan