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Just Some Housing Questions

This is what our member has to say: Housing Questions I was wondering for how long, if any time at all, two hatchlings can be kept in a 10 gallon? I would watch ...


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Just Some Housing Questions



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  #1  
04-07-2004, 04:57 PM
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Just Some Questions

Housing Questions
I was wondering for how long, if any time at all, two hatchlings can be kept in a 10 gallon? I would watch over them to make sure it's 0.2, not 1.1 and if they are 1.1, I would separate them. Anyone who doesn't know what the numbers are it's # of males . # of females. I'm getting them in 11 days at the NY Metro Reptile Expo, maybe I will see some of you there?

Feeding Questions
Can I just feed mealworms all the time? I would like some variety but I to stick with different kinds of worms, no crickets or roaches or anything, and I want to be able to raise them myself. I read up on silkies but they only eat mulberry leaves and the chow is too expensive. Someone told me that superworms are too big, what about at their smallest in the worm stage? Also, I would prefer to avoid things that fly but I guess I could handle it.

Other Questions
I have read a couple times that leopard geckos need a proper day/night cycle. If I just kept them by an open window in indirect light, would that be sufficient or would I need to get a light on a timer? Do their temps need to be lowered at night or should I just keep temps that fit in both the day and night ranges? If it is true that they need light to know what is day and what is night, that leads me to believe that if you kept them in the dark during the day and in the light during the night, that they would eventually become active in the day and sleep during the night. Is this possible?

Thanks in advance for any answers.

  #2  
04-07-2004, 05:41 PM
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Just my opinion,

Two very young Leo's can be kept in a 10 only unbtil about 2-3 months of age. A 20L would be better. And I have heard thaT IF 2 MALES ARE RAISED TOGETHER THAT THERE IS A CHANCE THAT THEY MAY TOLERATE EACH OTHER when they are adults!!(Sry about the caps). I also have read that even if you do get a 1.1 then it may still be a problem because the male might try to mate with the female all the time and get her stressed.


IMHO, Mealies are fine as a staple food for Leo's. I feed mine crickets once a week, mealies at all other times. I have never tried superworms, they are supposed to be more nutritious than mealies and less chitin(shell). I imagine small ones would work for small leo's and as the leo's get older, bigger ones.


Indirect light from a window in the room is sufficient for a proper day/night cycle.
It is OK to drop the temps at night, but not absolutely necessary. I keep mine at about 87 during the day and a normal drop in house temps during the evening cools off the enclosure, especially away from the hot spot.

Ed
SE Michigan

I don't know about changing them by keeping the lights on during night and keeping them dark during the day. Seems like it is too much trouble and you'd have a couple of screwed-up Leo's! LOL

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04-07-2004, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
I also have read that even if you do get a 1.1 then it may still be a problem because the male might try to mate with the female all the time and get her stressed.
Yes, that is what I was worried about and why I am going to make sure I don't see the male (if there is one) shaking his tail at the other one or attempting to copulate with it, although I think that probably wouldn't happen as hatchlings. Anyway, I am going to ask the breeders for ones that were incubated at the "female temp range." I will eventually get a 20L or a 54 quart sterilite, depending on how much moolah I have around at the time. Or if I have the time, I might even build my own enclosure out of sealed pine with acrylic doors or just all acrylic. If I do build my own I'll be sure to post pics of it. I will also post pics of the gecko/s (not really sure about getting 2 yet) as soon as I get them. I will probably end up just getting one but thanks for the advice anyway.

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 I helped move the meter!   04-07-2004, 06:03 PM
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Hello,
Though I am sure it is possible to raise 2 males together when they are young,it is highly suggested against to raise them together through thier entire life span. One of the males WILL be larger and more dominant.
Housing a single male with a single female will place unneeded stress on the female when they are large enough to breed. Also,the male will/may attempt to breed before the females is ready and/or large enough. This isn't healthy for the female.
It would be possible to teach the Leopard Geckos that day is night and vice versa. Though this is the case,the room would need to remain dark during the day or you would interfere with thier cycle. If you turned the lights on to view them,they may run and hide.
Mealies are ok to use as a stapple for healthy Leopard Geckos but you will need to mix it up with some other insects. Superworms take forever to begin a culture. The beetles are massive and they have an odor. They also require a heat source for optimal breeding and hatching rates.
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04-07-2004, 06:55 PM
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Rich, could you recommend something else that I could feed to the geckos, excluding cricket, roaches, etc.? I am just against roaches and if the crickets didn't make noise I would be fine with them, but of course they do. Any ideas?

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 I helped move the meter!   04-07-2004, 07:05 PM
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Hello,

Lets see, silkworms,butterworms,superworms,(for adults or baby supers for juvs.),mealworms,and waxworms. Thats all I can think of off the top of my head.

Younger crickets don't make noise. You could add some of them to the diet if you are only concerned about the noise.
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04-07-2004, 09:48 PM
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Which are better nutritionally, waxworms or superworms? Rich, I have read that they only produce an odor if they are sick or dead. I know the beetles are huge (I have attached a pic), but I am willing to deal with that. About the long time to start a culture thing:
Quote:
As discussed earlier, the worms will turn into pupae (those little alien-like creatures). These pupae after approximately 10 to 15 days, they will emerge as beetles. It is these beetles that will breed and lay the eggs. The beetles start to mate and lay eggs within several days (roughly 1 week) of pupating and will continue to do so for approximately 4 months (after which they die).

The female beetles tend to be significantly larger than male beetles. These females can typically lay up to 500 eggs throughout their lifetime. Each egg is roughly 1/20th of an inch and sticks to the substrate so chances are, you will not see the eggs - some may also lay their eggs on the egg crate or pieces of wood. The eggs hatch about 1 week after they were laid. These worms will achieve optimal growth rates when kept between 75 and 80F.
It doesn't seem too tough and because they lay so many eggs, I will probably only keep a few of those that morph into beetles. Have you raised them yourself? Then that would dismiss the odor and time to start a culture things that I have read.

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 I helped move the meter!   04-10-2004, 10:11 AM
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Hello,
Its not the tank that will be odorous,its the beetles themselves. They appear to have a "musk" similar to garter snakes.
I raised them for a short time and had some success. It is best to use small containers to increase the speed in which the superworms pupate into beetles. I used small spice jars and placed a small amount of substrate in the bottom with one worm. I then placed that small jar on a shelf where it is dark. I checked them daily and watched them turn into beetles. At that point,they were transferred to a 10 gallon tank where they had moisture and food. They bred on thier own time. It took awhile before I noticed the babies.
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09-15-2004, 09:07 AM
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See?? I'm not the only one that doesn't want to deal with cricket noise!
Beetles and stuff doesn't bother me...as long as they are quiet! lol
Jem

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09-15-2004, 01:14 PM
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Can't you guys buy the silent crickets? I changed over to them a few months ago after several interupted nights thanks to thewir chirping and they are wonderful.

 


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