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Gecko near death... what is cause? |
| This is what our member has to say: ok, so gecko is stick skinny, no meat on bones AT ALL. (or tail) geck wont eat anything but live crix. but then throws em ... |
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#1
11-09-2004, 08:59 PM
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Gecko very sick. Please help.
ok, so gecko is stick skinny, no meat on bones AT ALL. (or tail)
geck wont eat anything but live crix. but then throws em up anyway. fecal exam tested negative yesterday, afraid too skinny to draw blood. i have tried mealies, different types of nutritious (already dead) crix from zoo med and flukers...she eats it once and learns its not live crix, and wont ouch it again. she is drinking water, ive seen her. she doesnt seem to have a good sense of time. for shes lying out and about all day long, waiting for more food to swallow and throw up again. but yet she made the first full fecal ive seen in weeks... but looks on verge of death. does she have a chance? **update** im going to try live crix again... this time a smaller size and maybe give them different gutload. |
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#2
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I suggest getting her to a vet ASAP.
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#3
11-13-2004, 12:36 AM
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well let me tell u 2 of my Leopard Geckos have died thsi way they are throwing it up because there is a seriouse bacterial infection in there stomak and she probably has strongeloid parasites I suggest u get parazap asap or panacure and try from there does ur leo kinda of smell nasty???
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if reptiles could speak they would say my name |
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#4
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Sometimes they're just too skinny and can't digest the food, so it comes back out. I've seen that happen to frogs a lot more than in lizards, but its the same thing. If your fecal exams came back negative for parasites, then this would probably be your case. I assume the gecko was thin when you got it? Instead of crickets, I'd try waxworms. They're full of fat, so they're great for beefing up a thin gecko, and to a gecko, they're candy. Plus they're soft and much easier to digest than crickets.
I'd also get some electrolytes in him. I've seen that make the difference many times. Electrolytes will give an extra jolt of energy to help him fight the fight. There's electrolytes in Reptisafe, its a reptile water dechlorinator made by Zoo Med. Look for it, its blue. If you can't get any of that, diluted pedialyte or if you have to, Gatorade. Its better than nothing at all. If you use the Reptisafe, I'd boost the amount youadd to the water, since you're using it for the electrolytes more than its dechlorinating abilities. Put it in his water dish, and mist some lightly in the morning. If he's still alive, I hope this info helps him stay that way. Good luck!
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#5
11-13-2004, 01:11 AM
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Another thing I have use for my geckos to hydrate the sick ones is pedialite. Great stuff. You probably also want to supplement your gecko with liquid calcium and vitamin dust put in whatever liquid your using. Try force feeding with a needleless syringe.When feeding wax worms, it will be important to feed other things to her as well. Force feeding may be required. Wax worms are fatty, but not too healthy for a gecko. So rather than feeding all candy to your leo, feed some nicely gutloaded crickets, and freshly molted mealworms. You will need to go to a skilled herp vet asap probably. That would probably be your best bet.
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The more you whine, the worse it will get. |
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#6
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Oh yeah, I wouldn't use waxworms for a long term diet, but to quickly fatten him up, it'll work a lot better than anything else, especially since he's barfing up crix. Just to give him the energy so he can eat other, healthier foods.
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+5 bonus points to whoever finds me a job! "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." - John Benfield |
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#7
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Hello,
Though it doesn't happen regularly, parasitic infections do not always show up in a fecal. When fecal tests are done, to my knowledge, they look for eggs and dead parasites. Sometimes, there isn't anything present, but that doesn't mean that they are not their. The fact that your Leo is regurgitating its food has nothing to do with how thin it is. This is parasitic or bacterial. You need to have some antibiotics administered. I am no vet, so I will not tell you what to use and what dose. Your vet can do that. I too would suggest waxworms as the diets staple. I would actually suggest you stick with that staple for the next 2 months pending the antibiotics have the time to work. After the 2 month period has expired, begin to cycle in other feeder insects, slowly removing the waxworms completely. What veterinarian did you use? Would you happen to have their name and number handy? |
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#8
11-14-2004, 10:55 AM
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Antibiotics are (should only be) only used to treat SPECIFIC BACTERIAL infections and a few select eukaryotic infections such as ameobas. ANTIHELMINTHICS are used to treat SPECIFIC EUKARYOTIC (i.e. worms, flagellates, etc.) infections. Only a veterinarian (or a good parasitologist) can tell you exactly what sort of drug you need since they have very specific modes of action.
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