Before you just say we are wrong. Why don't you do a little studying about it. Here is a alright site with some uv info.
http://www.resoasis.com/lighting.htm

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The more you whine, the worse it will get.

That's because they need UVB. Heat would be linked closer to infrared rather than ultraviolet. UVA is present in all UVB lghts, but there's no such thing as a fluorescent UV heat light. UVA is seen by some reptiles. That's the only benefit it brings. UVB is absorbed by the skin cells and creates previtamin D3. This then travels through the bloo dstream to the kidneys and the liver and becomes provitamin d3, which isn't really a vitamin but acts as a hormone that regulates calcium absorption. Without UVB it doesn't matter how much calcium you give your Bearded Dragon, it can't absorb any without UVB. The calcium can't be absored as it is though. It needs to chemically bond to phosphorous to become calcium-phosphate. This is then absorbed and that's where the calcium comes from. That's why its not only important to provide UVB and calcium, but you also need to have the proper calcium to phosphorous ratio or you'll mess things up. In short, UVA isn't heat. It's wavelengths are too drawn out to create enouhg heat. Infrared light creates more heat because the wavelenghts are much shorter. Your Bearded Dragon died because it couldn't get any calcium in its sysytem.

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+5 bonus points to whoever finds me a job!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." - John Benfield

I know that's what I was trying to say..... I think......

Hello,
I just reread your initial post and realized that you were suggesting that you place the 2 leopard geckos together. (Your leopard gecko and your brothers new leopard gecko.) I read it initially as you placing the FT and the Leo together.

In regards to placing both of your leopard geckos together, you first should quarantine the new one. You have already introduced them twice, so that is pretty much out of the question.

If you do plan on housing them together, they need to be very close in size. If they are not, the larger one is going to stress the smaller one. That is a certainty.

Stress, as we all know, can lead to other problems such as lethargy, lack of appetite,etc.

The biggest thing you will need to watch for is the food consumption. The smaller Leo will most likely be deterred from eating until the larger Leo has had his fill or is not around. Sometimes, the less dominant Leo will cease to eat all together.

If I read your previous post correctly, Charlie is a female? If that is correct, then you don't have as much to worry about in regards to sex.

If Charlie is a male, and the new Leo is a male, there will be a territory fight at some point.

If Charlie is a male and the new Leo is a female, they need to be watched to make certain that the male doesn't attempt to copulate with the female. If she isn't ready to carry eggs, this can be very stressful for the female and can lead to larger problems in the future.

In the future, its always good practice to keep the reptiles separated and then ask the questions regarding them living together. You were fortunate in the respect that they didn't immediately go after one another. Had the larger Leo decided to "bite" the smaller one, you may be posting about a tail drop or lacerations.

It is also good practice to quarantine any new animals before they are introduced to the existing collection. Its far to easy for parasites to spread through a collection and cause extremely high medical bills or a completely lost collection.

yea I tries and they fought sadly now my brother's is in a 10 gallon tank by it's self very happy (just on't come out of a log) so thz every1