Welcome. To defrost prey (when there are not too many ) and too get it warm I found soaking it in warm water for a few minutes works best for me. You can feel when it has defrosted.

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Don't be jealous the voices only speak to me...

www.herprecon.org

Don't think of it as settling for frozen. It is by far the best way, no chance of a pesky rodent injuring your snake. May sound crazy but plenty of snakes have been severely injured from feeding live, or worse died. A few ways to warm it. Let it set a good while in warm water, how I do it is fill the sink up with hot water, and let the feeder mouse soak(in a baggy) or some people will lay the mouse out and point a heat lamp at it. Main goal is just so it is warm..

You want to make sure it is warm all the way through though. If it isn't the snake won't digest it properly.

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We put the frozen mouse or rat in a pan of hot (not boiling) water for up to an hour (for 120g rats). Change the water a few times as it cools. Then just before feeding I put it in fresh hot water. Dab off the excess drips with a paper towel and use feeding tongs to offer it to my snakes.
You can also use a hairdryer or heat lamp to heat the mouse/rat.
DO NOT USE A MICROWAVE!!!

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Andrea

Thanks all for warming suggestions. I think he will be ready for his second meal on Sunday. Since the last time when I fed him the pinkies, he didn't have any bulge at all, he may be ready for a small mouse this time.

By the way he hasn't excreted at all (he ate on Monday) I have no idea what it looks like. He seems pretty comfortable, when I pick him up he balls up for a few seconds and then he is ready to explore. Of course I have no way of really knowing. I only handle him for a few minutes in a whole 24-hr period. Since he is not a month old yet I hate to leave him alone, but I am trying to follow you all's suggestion of giving him time to adjust. Is he not pooping (vocabulary?) because he is stressed?

Maya

Python metabolism is very slow. My pythons and boas will usually "go" a week or two after feeding. Its nothing to worry about .
And Poop likes exactly like what you think it will!
With the addition of some white chalky stuff which is called urates and is the reptile equivalent to urine.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

Thanks, I shall not worry about the poop.

I finally found a pet store that sold a live rat pinkie for $3.79, 30 miles away, of course I had to go get it (like spoiling him). I was very happy to see him eat the rat pinkie, I was afraid it was too big for him, but he managed it fine. He is all wrapped up in his hut and I promise not to bother him for at least a couple of days.

BTW I have been reading that rat is more nutritious than mouse, but doesn't look like Tiberius will ever be big enough to eat an adult rat, does this mean I will have to give him rat pups even a year from now, or is it okay to switch to adult mice? I want him to be healthy and big. Those adult rats in the Pet store looked very big.
Maya

He will eventually get big enough to eat smaller adult rats! You want to feed prey items the size of your snakes midbody girth. Adult mice will be fine! But yes, I have found rats to be way more nutrtious and increase growth and mass. But he will definantly outgrow single adult mice. hehe

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Don't be jealous the voices only speak to me...

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I agree. My pair are about 4 ft long and have no problem putting away an adult rat!

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

I have 3 BP's right now and they can absolutely put down rats. lol

Godiva, my largest, actually got down a xxx-large rat from Rodentpro (it will be her last one as she almost regurged it). She typically eats x-large rats.

Kyros eats small rats right now but will soon be upgrading to mediums.

Adoptee, my smallest BP, eats 2 x-large adult mice every 7 days.

Just for good measure, my cornsnake Rayne can eat Small Rats though has recently been eating 2 x-large mice. My boa constrictor, Alexis, eats 3lb rabbits.

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