[Typhanie]

I don't want to jump the gun, but so far this has been a pretty easy adoption process. The temps and humidity are staying where I need them, I mist down the snake's cage once in the morning, and once when I get home in the evening, when he's just starting to get active. The snake himself sleeps during the day, and seems active at night - slithering around and stretching out. Lately he's been roaming down to the lower branches of the cage, then back up to the top before daytime. It's cute.

He started looking like he was hunting within the first four days I had him. Guess he either felt safe, or was REALLY hungry! So I fed him Friday night. Turns out Petsmart has frozen feeders, which I didn't know before, but was super happy to find out. He ate two medium mice, no problems and no hesitation.

So my thing is that all of the research I did said that chondros were not an easy first snake, and were difficult to maintain and keep healthy. Since this *is* my first snake (I know, I know, but this is the one I wanted), I keep expecting some kind of shoe to drop and make this hard. So far things are going really smoothly, though. Should I be preparing for a big distaster or something?

I mean the little guy doesn't even seem to mind when I go into the cage to change out the bedding, or to right a fallen plant. Just pokes his head up over his coils, then ignores me. I've only done it once, and I assume that will change once he's fully adjusted. I'm not going to underestimate him, either. I've got nice thick gloves for whenever I go into the cage, which won't be much.

Just to clarify, I'm certainly not disappointed! Pleasantly surprised, though. I have to wonder where the difficult to keep part is coming in. So far he's MUCH easier than the iguana, or even the uro!

[schlegelbagel]

Even though its not a suggested "first snake" you are an experienced herp keeper and have done all the research and made a proper enclosure.

Now that I know frogs, and I have done all the research and what not, I realized I COULD have done RETF first, even though they are not suggested for first time frogs.

I relate this to what all the warnings were for when I went hiking in the Grand Canyon. They let EVERYONE know it can't be hiked in a day, no way no how. They put this out for the novice enthusiasts who insist they can, if somewhere something says it can be done. This is to keep the average Joe Shmoe from having to be rescued when he craps out halfway back. I went hiking. I was in great physical shape then. I COULD have made it all the way down and back had I packed the right amount of food and water. We needed about an extra 2 hours worth of supplies and didn't have them. I knew I could have physically made it had I packed the extra water. But since they said it was impossible, we didn't plan for it.

The *warnings* are for the newbies and unexperienced and uneducated. If we educate ourself and train ourself enough, we can do it the first time.

[Typhanie]

That makes sense. I guess it's way more challenging to someone who has to maintain temperatures and humidity for the first time, ever.

[schlegelbagel]

yes, i think the warnings are for someone who is at a store just browsing. Keeps them from the impulse buy and bringing them home to sub-par conditions. A corn snake is far less picky about its surroundings.

[Merlin]

I think Liz has hit the nail on the head. These snakes are not good first snakes for someone who doesn't do the research, doesn't understand about the species needs and is unable or unwilling to meet them.
You can't just buy one and toss it in the empty 10 gal tank in your bedroom!

[Typhanie]

You can do that with a corn? Cause I have more than one empty ten g to toss things into!

Just kidding. I'm relieved, I have to say. I really don't mind a challenge at all, but it's nice to know I don't have to worry about strange things happening out of nowhere.

On another note, I'm scheduling a vet visit just past the three week mark to make sure he hasn't got any sneaky little parasites or issues. I fully expect him to get a clean bill of health. This is a nice change to some of the less healthy animals I've taken on before.

I am also a little eager to start handling him. Not much - I do understand they're not too happy with being held - but my goal is to get him to the point where I can handle him without gloves when it is necessary to handle him. Right now, I'd probably be dumb to try without the gloves, seeing as his former owner was very careful to put them on for him. I'm not fond of being bitten, even if it really does mean a couple of puncture wounds and a bruise.

[titus]

Green tree python just have a bad rap. There really nowhere near aggressive. It's just like some carpets. There just uneasy about being taken off thier perch and will try again and again to grasp hold. Take this as a sign and try later. It sounds like you have everything under control. Main problems with Green Tree Python are prolased cloca and sheding problems. Keep its water clean and under it's fav. perch spot to prevent the former. Some Green Tree Python will hang their tail in their bowl.

[Typhanie]

Thanks! That's really good to know. I'll do some more research on the prolased cloca, now that you've mentioned it. Can't be too cautious.

[smallgrayfox]

I'm so glad he's doing so well!

[BlackJack]

How did I miss all these threads???
Don't worry Typhanie. If you can keep the temps and humidity and the recommended levels, you'll do fine. The problems are often those screen top enclosures everyone seems to have in the US -- they're not very practical for herps, IMO.
Another reason why they are not recommended as beginner snakes, is that people often want to do a lot of handling: for that, cornsnakes are a better choice.
You CAN handle a chondro, of course and here are some tips:
When you handle him, I recommend taking him out in the daytime: not too early in the morning (right when he's gone to sleep) -- better in the afternoon. You will be less likely to be bit in the daytime than at night. Also if you have any cleaning or maintenance, do it during the day while he is coiled on the branch. The only thing to do at night is FEEDING. Save any after-feeding clean-up for the next day.
When you go to handle him BE CAREFUL taking him off his perch, their tails are VERY slim and can break easily. But he WILL hold on with it strongly. I recommend tickling it a little as you lift him off. (The easiest is to have a removable perch and take him out with it.) He will "make a run for it" once he's mostly free. I try to point the head outside of the terrarium as I'm trying to tickle the tail free.
Once out of the terrarium, try to sit down or stand quitely and let him settle. Again, be careful if he gets his tail hooked around something... SLOW and GENTLE with these guys. They tend NOT to like crawling around on the floor and I NEVER put ours down on the floor. They are FAST, so stay alert, one minute they are still as can be and the next they are flying out of your hands.
We put ours in a glass dish on the scale every now and then to check the weight after they defecate. But otherwise handling is kept to a minimum.
I hope that helps a bit.