Wanted to incorporate a cage for my boa on the bottom. Overall it's 72.75" wide x 17" deep x 45.75" high. It fits 6 - 41 quart tubs for adult corns and the bottom cage is 6' wide x 17" deep x 24" high for when my boa is grown up. I plan to heat everything with 11" heat tape and a separate thermostat for the boa cage seeing as his hotspot is required to be higher than a corns. I also plan to put casters on the bottom for easier moving. The front has a 4" litter dam and I plan to put sliding glass doors on the front that can be locked closed.

I'm curious if that would be enough space for him of should I make it deeper because everywhere I look boa cages tend to be 24" deep. The lack of knowledge on my boa's exact species perplexes me too, most people seem to agree that he is a common boa constrictor imperator. Also wondering if his cage will need some form of center support.

Also any other ideas would be awesome. Here's the cut list: (everything in inches out of 3/4" melamine)

3 - 72.75 x 17 (inner shelves)
2 - 74.25 x 17 (top and bottom)
2 - 17 x 44.25 (side walls)
3 - 17 x 6 (inner supports)
1 - 4 x 72.75 (litter dam wall)
1 - 74.25 x 45.75 (back wall)

Also curious how much this would all cost. Trying to figure it out in my head is making my head spin. Lol. I think 3/4" melamine in a 4'x8' sheet is about 15 bucks here. (or so I have been told) Thanks for reading and any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to build this come summertime when the weather is nice and my corns should be ready for new containers by then.

You won't need center support if you do it this way.
This is in the bottom section.
Put a strip of wood about 1" wide under the bottom shelf at the back. This will reinforce the shelf at the rear of the enclosure.
Do this at the front as well. But use at least 2" there. Then put the track for the sliding doors under the 2" piece.
It's been a while since I had a Columbian Boa. But I believe your 17" depth is too small. I too had mine at 24" and it was a fairly similar setup as well.

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Mike

Would it make a difference being 6'x17" for a male versus a female? My boa is a male.

I'm not sure on that. The length is good but putting in a water dish for them to soak in would take up the entire depth.
I'm not versed on boas anymore.
Perhaps post a cage size requirement in the boa section.

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Mike

Strips of wood would rienforce the shelf. but just make sure they are installed the widest measurement up and down.(don't know if that makes sense, lol)
I guess best description would be, lay a 2x4 flat on the ground, now flip it on it's side. Fasten whatever wood you use like that. Wont sag that way.

As far as the depth, I was reading last night about measurements because I just got a red tail boa and the site suggested at least a third of the length of the snake.

Here is a link to the care sheet. Pretty informative.Redtailboas.com - Amazing Boas and the Ultimate Care Guide

I would, and do, go 24 inches deep. An adult boa is going to be a fairly heavy bodied snake. 17 inches will be a bit cramped.
On your glass I would go a minumum of 1/4 inch.

Personally I have never been a big fan of melamine. It is basically glued together sawdust and doesn't really hold screws that well. And if it gets damp it will deteriorate. And it is heavy!

Another thing to consider is the heating. Depending on how warm the area where the cage will be the flexwatt may or may not be sufficient.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

What would you recommend instead of melamine? I thought about doing plywood with tile and sealant. This is my first rack/cage so I'm trying to figure out what is the most reasonable price wise and is still durable for what I need it to do.

I like 3/4 cabinet grade plywood. Looks good and doesn't require as much sanding as cheaper cuts of plywood.
The cabinet grade is more expensive initially but you aren't going to be saving any money if your rack falls apart and you have to build another one.

You have to keep in mind that an adult boa is going to be a very strong snake.

I seal mine with several coats of water based polyurethane. The tiles or lineoleum lining would be another good option.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

I agree with Merlin on that.
Also the Plywood would be much easier to push around. It's probably about half the weight.

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Mike

Thanks for all the help! I have another question. Would plexi be able to come in a long enough piece to span that or would I have to split it up somehow? Sorry this is my first rack so I'm totally fresh off the boat about this stuff.