Hi all, I am looking into having a corn snake and would be more than grateful for any advice or tips you may have. I've always kept lizards and basically stuck with them because it's what I know. Well I want a new challenge and I have been told corn snakes are the best starter. I do have a spare viv ,front opening
and loads of questions.
1. What is the difference between corn snake and corn morph care-wise?
2. Do they need a UV bulb?
(I've read lots of contradicting care sheets)
3.Whats best to start a hatchling or an adult?
4.Are there any do's and donts that are really important in buying and keeping?

Like I said I have read many care sheets on corn snakes but they can never replace advice from experienced keepers so any replies would be gratefully recieved.

No difference between morphs an normals: just prices usually. They don't need any uv lighting. An undertank heater would work best, choosing either adult or hatchling is up to you. Don't use cedar or pine shaving; use either aspen, carefresh, or cypress mulch, and make you have a secure enclosure! They are master escape artists!

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"Reality is wrong, Dreams are for real"
-Tupac Shakur

0.2.1 Leopard Geckos
0.1.0 Corn Snake

Thank you Brewster320, I am not too sure with the front opening viv as although I have locks on all vivs particulary tysons (iggy)room there is always the chance of escape so I might invest in another one. I do have heater bulbs with thermostats but concerned the snake may wrap around it and get burnt ( might be a stupid thought but I like to cover every aspect) so an undertank heater is a great idea hadn't thought of that. What are your thoughts on astro turf: my main concern was if the snake gets underneath it. Also I have read about many corn snakes with feeding problems is this a major problem ?

I prefer hatchlings or juvies, that way they can "grow" with you. Check out our caresheet for more tips :

Cornsnake Caresheet (Pantherophis guttatus) - Reptile Information - Caresheets Database

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Ken
"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem." -- Ronald Reagan

Usually they don't have feeding problems, although some do. Mine wouldn't eat for 3weeks and then just decided to eat, thankfully they can go a long time with out food. If they do have a problem don't panic, there are many ways to get them to eat.

__________________
"Reality is wrong, Dreams are for real"
-Tupac Shakur

0.2.1 Leopard Geckos
0.1.0 Corn Snake

Not a stupid thought at all. Having an exposed bulb where the snake can get to it is VERY dangerous! The one cage I have with a heat element inside has the bulb "caged" so the snake can't get to it.
Astroturf is fine and the snake WILL get under it.As long as your heat pad isn't set too high this is not a problem. Except to try to get to the snake!
Corns are not known for feeding problems and are some of the easiest snakes to keep and feed.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

Thank you again for being very helpful,
I am going to start from scratch with a hatchling, seen a gorgeous lavenda corn morph. Aquarium 1ft x 1ft with a secure wooden lid, small basking bulb enclosed in mesh, newspaper to start for substrate with heat mat under the tank. small hide and water dish.
Now for feeding, do I take the snake out for feeding and place it in a tub, how long do I leave it in there.
Do I feed the snake as soon as I get it or do I leave it for a couple of days.
I will be asking when was the snake last feed and if it feeds ok before I buy it.
The one I want is alert, eyes clear and skin bright and very cute and I have explained it is a newbie to me and will go back next week giving me enough time to get viv set up and temps right. I cant wait but I really need to do it right

1ft x 1ft isn't really big enough. It will be difficult to establish a thermal gradient in that small of an area. This means that the snake will either be too warm or too cool all the time. Both situations will cause health problems. You need something the equivalent of the floor space of a 10 gallon tank.
once the snake is home, leave it alone for a week to settle in and then after that you can feed it. I remove all my snakes to feed them. I just put them where I am going to feed, they hit and swallow the food and I immediately return them to their enclosures to digest, leaving them alone for at least 2 days.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

Thank you again Merlin you are a great help. The spare viv I have is 3ft x 2 ft x 2ft standard beech effect viv with front opening. What I am worried about with this one is the heat mat on the bottom would have to be inside to get the best results heat wise which really with the thermostat shouldnt be much of a problem but as you said before the snake will go underneath it making it hard to get hold of. The other thing is the front opening at least with a lid the snake has got to be close to the top to get out so thats why I was thinking more of the glass tank being more secure the downside would be loss of heat and the fact that your always coming from above like a predator. The breeder actually made me laugh cause he basically said to leave it in this tiny tub for about 2 weeks now I might be abit stupid with it being new an all but I'm not that stupid I'm going to shopping for a tank tommorow so hopefully I should crack it thank you again

Not sure what a beech effect viv is.
Why would the heat mat have to be inside the cage?
Does the tank in question have a glass bottom?
Front opening or top opening, it doesn't matter.
If there is a way out the snake will find it!

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!