So I recently aquired 2 African Clawed Frog froglets from someone who recived them and didnt want them. As far as I know, up here in NH the pet stores dont seem to really have much info on them...or carry them. I have pretty much helped these frogs so far based on trial and error...but would like a second opinion on how im doing to insure that the time and money invested on these little guys dosent go to waste. So far I moved them from a gold fish bowl that i recived them in, into a 10gallon aquarium. Theres one male albino, and one green female. They werent feeding at first, but after I removed ALL gravel from the bottom of the tank, they seem to be getting pretty fat and happy from the tadpole/frog pelletts ive supplied them. The bigger female seems to enjoy the occasional shrimp pellets as well. From what I researched...I equppied the tank with a couple hiding places, and some fake plants, which seems to keep them pretty content.

My main concern right now seems to be with tank preperation. After going through this forum, I noticed that nobody does a full tank water change weekly, which is what I do. I dont use a filter at all...as ive heard that moving water upsets these frogs, so im going completley stagnant. I move the frogs into a smaller goldfish bowl temporarily while i empty ALL the water from their normal tank, wipe it down, rinse off all objects within, and then completley re-fill the aquarium with fresh clean water...adding a bit of TETRA AQUASAFE to nutralize the horrible things in my well water. I was supprised to learn that some of you guys let bacteria grow, and only do partial water changes...I have absolutley no aquarium care knowledge and have no experience with fishtanks and what not. I dont really get "Cloudy" water as much as i get the frogs droppings on the tank bottom, and a really gunky, stinky film at the top water line...other than food peletts making a mess, the water seems to stay pretty clear. I do this complete water change and breakdown WEEKLY, because I am paranoid about salmanila and other bacteria that could cause problems...

My question is this...is my above care acceptable? And could someone explain this "partial water change" and "allowed bacteria growth" when it comes to careing for the tank itself.

Thanks...

- Jethro

Hello and welcome to HerpCenter!
I don't know anything about the frogs but as a long time aquarium keeper I can explain the water change situation for you.
When you empty a tank and fill it with fresh water, you are creating a perfectly empty, sterile, environment. This is non existant in nature. Using a filter is necessary both for the removal of solid waste as well as the neutralizing of liquid waste. There are bactera that will grow in the tanks that live on all surfaces as well as in the filter media. When you introduce the animals you also introduce these bacteria.

These bacteria grow in the presence of oxygenated water. By using a proper filter you not only oxygenate the water but give the bacteria much more surface on which to live and grow.

With leftover food or the animals eliminate, ammonia is formed in the water. This is highly toxic! The bacteria will grow and multiply consuming the ammonia converting it to a substance called nitrites. This too is toxic though not as bad as the ammonia. It still has to go!
A second type of the bacteria will grow consuming the nitrites converting it to nitrate, basically plant food! This is known as the "Nitrogen cycle" and requires approximately 6 weeks to mature.
By completly dumping everything and starting over frm scrach each time the cycle cannot happen and the bacteria cannot grow and multiply.

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Merlin,
What's Life Without A Little Magic!

I pulled this off a caresheet for you hope it helps



Housing
These are strictly aquatic anurans. At least 1 gallon of water
per animal, with the depth no more than 12 inches and no less than
six. Do not use distilled water. Bottles of tap water should stand
open for at least 1 day before being poured into the tank to outgas
chlorine and related chemicals. Alternatively, 2 tiny (1 mm cube)
crystals of sodium thiosulfate can be added to each gallon bottle at
least 1 day prior to use.
African Clawed frogs are specifically adapted for stagnant
water conditions. Although aesthetically pleasing to the keeper
mechanical and/or electrical filtration invariably produces adverse
long-term effects on the frogs. Constant water movement no matter
how slight is sensed through the highly developed lateral-line
system and results in severe stress. The effect is insidious and can
be compared to what would happen to a human if (s)he were
compelled to live where sandblasters and jackhammers were in use
24 hours a day.
99 % of the water should be changed by bailing, siphon, and/or
spigots every 3-4 days, or whenever it becomes extremely cloudy.
When in doubt about changing the water, try to err on the side of
cleanliness, though extreme fastidiousness is unnecessary. At every
water change use a towel to remove any algae and accumulated
exudate which form on the tank walls, but do not use any type of
algae-inhibiting or water-purifying chemicals other than the
minuscule amount of sodium thiosulfate mentioned above.
Metal ions are toxic to Xenopi, lowering their resistance to
infection. Make absolutely certain there is no metal of any kind in or
on the tank or upon which water can splash and drip back into the
tank, e.g. from a screen or light fixture. Never clean the tank with
soaps or caustics or allow such compounds to come in contact with
the water. Do not use pest-strips or insecticides in the vicinity of the
tank.
The Clawed Frog is quite comfortable in ascetic surroundings,
provided they are suitably spacious. Do not use a substrate of small
stones, as these can be accidentally ingested. Avoid living plants, as
the frogs uproot them quickly. A few sterilized medium-to-large
rocks are sufficient to break up the physical monotony of a plain
tank.
Adult Xenopi may be gently handled, although they're
notoriously slippery. They must never be netted, however, because
their thin fingers may be inadvertently entangled and amputated by
even the finest mesh. Since they desiccate easily they must never be
kept in a dry situation for more than a few minutes.

Wow, thanks for the quick responses! Thanks much Merlin for the bacteria explination, atleast I have an understanding as to why its important. Also thanks to mshrmheadcharge for the care sheet. Thats pretty much what ive been doing, the stagnant water thing with no filter. I guess my main concern outside of other care and feeding comments that might help, would be if this Stagnant water system is ok for these frogs. All the care sheets say never to use a filter beacuse of the stress on the frogs it causes, yet every time I come in contact with anyone who owns any of these guys they all have filters and say allow bacteria build up...

I think the stagnant water thing is working (altho ive only had them for a little less than a month.). Just curious as to weather or not the Amonia build up in a weeks time is bad for the frog's health...

Other than that...keep the replies comming, any suggestions are good suggestions at this stage of the game...

- Jethro

Hmmmmm, stagnent water.... Maybe this is why i have NEVER had luck with these guys. I have always tried them in my 29 gallon fish tank with no luck.

With a 10 gallon, you won't get enough ammonia to worry about in a weeks time.

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My name is Liz
Do what's best for the animal, not what's best for you.

I used to catch African frogs both dwarf and regular sized ones in San Diego when I was a kid in the most algae ridden ,broken glass, and stagnant runoff creeks around. Yet they were very abundant and appeared healthy.
For the 3 dwarfs I have now I might turn off my aquarium filter for a week to see how they react since it causes some turbulence. My fish probably won't like it though!!

i don't think you want to turn your filter off with fish in the tank, the ammonia can build up very quickly and become toxic...

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As mentioned, clawed frogs thrive in stagnant water. Filters will provide too much turbulence and noise and wreak havoc on the frog's lateral line. It's extremely stressful. This can also be said for many fish and other aquatic pets, so it's important to research what the natural habitat of your frog/ fish/ turtle is. Filters can be great tools, but horrible devices at the same time, depending on what animal you use it for, what kind of filter, and what size the habitat is.

I personally don't use filters for my clawed frog either. I change out about half to 3/4 of the water once a week and use only a piece of driftwood as tank decor. It's also important to check the ingredients of any water treatment agents you use. What's safe for fish is not always safe for frogs.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." - John Benfield

No prob Im glad I could help ya out!

What's the difference between african clawed frogs and regular underwater frogs?

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